Passo Staulanza - Monte Pelmo

Access to starting point:
Over the border crossing Rateče we drive to Trbiž / Tarvisio, where we go on a highway in the direction of Videm / Udine. We leave the highway at exit Tolmezzo and we follow the road to the mentioned settlement. From Tolmezzo we continue in the direction of the settlement Ampezzo and mountain pass Passo della Mauria. The road then starts descending and brings us in the valley Cadore, where we continue left towards Cortina d'Ampezzo. Further, we follow the signs for Cortina d'Ampezzo to the settlement Venas di Cadore. A little before the end of the mentioned settlement we turn left towards the settlement Forno di Zoldo. The road then through the mountain pass Cibiana brings us in the valley Val di Zoldo, where we continue right towards the mountain pass Staulanza. Then we follow an ascending road all the way to mountain pass Staulanza.

Path description:
On the mountain pass Passo Staulanza we go towards the southeast following the signs »Rif. Venezia, Orme di Dinosauro«. After a short ascent through the forest we come to a crossing, where we continue right, left leads the path which runs on the northern side of Monte Pelmo towards the notch Forada.
The path further continues to run through the forest and crosses slopes on the west side of Monte Pelmo. The path is slightly ascending and descendig here and occasionally also runs on a swampy terrain and it is often muddy. From the right side then the path from camp Pala Favera joins us and we continue crossing slopes towards the southeast. Further, the path runs mostly through dwarf pines and it brings us to a marked crossing.
To the left upwards leads the path to below the mountain walls of Pelmetto, where on a bigger boulder are visible traces of dinosaurs, we still continue straight by following the signs Rifugio Venezia. From the right side, the other path from Pala Favera joins, after that our path slowly turns left and it brings us on the south slopes below Monte Pelmo. In the last part towards the mountain hut path brings us on grassy slopes and soon we will notice the hut in front of us. Shortly before the hut, there is a crossing, where the path to Monte Pena branches off to the right. From the crossing, only a short ascent follows and we reach the hut.
At the mountain hut, we continue left on a marked path following the signs »Monte Pelmo, Via Normale«. At first for a short time, we are still ascending through dwarf pines, and then an ascent on the scree follows, which brings us below east walls of the peak Spalla Est.
Here the marked path turns right, and we go left towards Ball's ledge. The entrance into the wall is marked with the caption »Attacco«. The path from here ahead becomes very demanding and it is appropriate only for experienced mountaineers. Less experienced will need to belay with a rope. The path further also isn't marked anymore with official blazes. In spite of that orientation isn't too difficult because the path is marked with numerous cairns. After a short easy climbing, we come to the already mentioned Ball's ledge. The ledge is relatively long and for crossing, we will need approximately one hour. The ledge is most of the time very exposed, so we have to be concentrated on the whole crossing. On the ledge, there are also a few short more difficult spots where we have to climb a little. The most difficult part is located in the last part of the ledge where we have to cross a very narrow passage named Passo del Gatto (cat's passage). Usually, there's a rope over this part, which makes the crossing a little easier.
Ledge then soon ends and brings us in the cirque between the peaks Spalla Sud and Spalla Est. At the end of the ledge, we continue sharply right and after a shorter ascent, we come on the scree. Further, we are for quite some time ascending on the scree, all the time accompanied by wonderful views to mountain walls of the already mentioned Spalla Sud and Spalla Est. Higher, the path becomes steeper and is ascending on a rocky slope over some ledges. Here on few spots, some really easy climbing is needed. Such a path then brings us on less steep slopes from which a view towards the summit Monte Pelmo opens up. Here the path turns left towards the west and then it ascends towards the ridge between the peaks Spalla Sud and Monte Pelmo. On this part on the path also some snow fields are possible, which are not that steep and don't cause problems. In a not so distant past here was also a glacier.
When we reach the ridge, which is on the west side precipitous a view opens up on Monte Civetta and on the nearby Pelmetto. We continue right on the ridge and the path again becomes slightly demanding. On some spots some easy climbing is needed, occasionally is the ridge also slightly exposed. In the last part, the ridge turns to the right and only a short ascent follows to the summit with a very beautiful view.

On the way: Passo di Rutorto (1931m), Rifugio Venezia (1946m)