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Afternoon birthday trip via the north face of Elfer, 8. 9. 2020

pg9. 09. 2020 14:48:44

Elfer Nordwand-Klettersteig (D, II-); Westlicher Elferturm (2482 m), Elferspitze (2505 m)

For yesterday's birthday trip, after a good week abroad due to academic obligations, I chose a shorter excursion to the area of the famous Elfer cliffs rising above Neustift, the center of Stubai Valley. The Elfer massif hosts numerous more or less sharp and bold rocky towers and ridge summits rising between cca. 2400 and over 2500 m, all together quite resembling the Dolomites and perhaps part of the western Julians. Due to relatively solid rock, the massif is esteemed among climbers, and it also features two well-known and popular via ferratas: the harder Elfer Nordwand reaches D difficulty and ascends via the wild terrain of Elfer's north face to one of the spires (Westlicher Elferturm), the easier ridge climbing path (C) traverses most towers of southern Elfer and ends at the southern edge of the massif at the saddle with the meaningful name - Zwölfernieder.

Although Elfer peaks are among the lowest significant summits of Stubai Alps, which otherwise rise to or slightly over 3500 m, due to their important role in the development of hiking and climbing tourism in the valley, exposed position above Neustift, exceptional views, some easily reachable summits (especially probably the most important Elferspitze) and above all easy access shortened by gondola, they are among the most visited areas of already very popular Stubai Alps. I had to park practically with one wheel in the ditch because the large parking lot around half past one was completely packed; on the way to the junction of the usual path to Elferspitze and the traverse to the ferrata entrance, I met crowds of more or less equipped hikers, paragliders and casual walkers; from the junction to the end only five people.

Due to a smaller celebration the previous evening and morning work, I set off to Stubai Valley only around one p.m. and comfortably shortened the path with the gondola to the upper station at 1790 m - hey, for a shorter birthday trip I'm not hauling myself along the long Madagascar road. I quickly ascended past the large and full Elferhütte (2080 m) and in a really beautiful, clear day traversed via a locally precipitous and secured path to the entrance of Nordwand-Klettersteig.
The ferrata is among the hardest (perhaps even technically the most demanding) high-alpine - "Dolomitic" - climbing paths in Stubai Valley. It runs through an extremely picturesque, dark environment of the north bastion of Elferturm and is very creatively routed.
Via a steep vertical slab and crossing of the ridge ledge (C), we traverse under a wide, dark and wet wall. For a while we steeply ascend via not particularly difficult pitches helped by additional protections (B/C to C); at the key point there are two variants: the older one goes via a poorly protected narrow chimney (D/E) and is now not recommended; so I traversed the new path left of the chimney, which first climbs a short overhang, then continues cleverly along the ledge above the chimney (D). On damp rocks we continue to the main ridge (around C) and via a vertical wall, exposed but well protected, we ascend to the top of Westlicher Elferturm, from where the cross on the neighboring Elferspitze is nicely visible. By the same path we return to the small junction on the main ridge; to the large junction below Elferspitze, where yellow ferrata dots change to classic red-white marks and crowds gather in busy hours, we must mostly unprotected climb through the chimney and over rock blocks (II-/I+) and via an awkward descent secured by cable.
At the junction branches the ridge path over southern Elfer towers (Elferkofel-Klettersteig); the original plan was to do this too, but the late hour (well past five) made me jump only to Elferspitze about 10 minutes away, otherwise the most visited summit of the massif. Elferspitze is an interesting spire - except for a short secured airy spot, the whole path to it is completely undemanding, well at least to the platform a few meters below the summit, where there is also the "7 peaks of Stubai" stamp. On the other hand, the true summit is very exposed and the partly secured ascent to the cross with the box and logbook is no child's play. Well, for most guests the platform just below the summit will be perfectly fine, and the view is wonderful from there too. I climbed to the box, enjoyed a longer birthday contemplation under the summit at the right hour and on descent with easier climbing ascended one of the massif's small towers. At the hut around half past seven in the evening, to the car at the lower cable car station in southern Neustift another good hour and a half descent via grassy scree and the long white winding road, where the valley lights' beautiful play of light replaced the sun, which long illuminated the mighty walls of Serles and Kalkkögel, I arrived at the vehicle a few minutes past nine.

Elfer-Nordwand, despite relatively short length and comfy access, is a quite serious and strenuous ferrata; it doesn't reach the difficulty of the hardest modern sports ferratas but is among the top of classic high-alpine ones. That day the ascent was additionally complicated by wet rock after days of rain, which prevented proper grip. For a full day on Elfer, I definitely recommend the combination with the slightly easier but visually very picturesque Elferkofel ferrata, which continues nicely at the end of Nordwand. Incidentally, one can ascend several Elfer spires (some only for trained alpinists); for a full-day excursion, it makes sense to start in the valley or link the ascent over several days with previously described accesses to Habicht or Ilmspitze.

Until next time!