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| dprapr5. 08. 2016 10:04:19 |
I've been tempted for a long time by this picturesque and wild approach to Montaz, which was still unknown to me.
Yesterday, Jovan and my brother Vinko started at 6:30 am from the smaller parking lot on the road from Dunja to Rudni vrh saddle. Vinko had walked/climbed this path a few years ago, but we still had to be careful to properly "thread" the initial path. From the car, we went down the road across the stream to the intersection, continued right to the forest clearing, right along it to the end and when the road turns left, soon after a path appears in the upper left edge (there's a mark or inscription on the tree to the right).
The path goes through the forest at first and is well marked or "blazed". We cross numerous gullies with plenty of water and move constantly above the wildest gorge in the Julians (Clapadorie). On the path we also have to climb, sometimes scree, elsewhere full of gravel, in the steepest part old worn cables appear.
After about 2 hours we reach the foot of the Red Wall (seemed more yellow to me ), turn left up the partly vegetated wide ledge towards the natural bivouac Muschi.
To the bivouac is good 3 hours of hiking and climbing above the wild Clapadorie gorge, I'd say real spider country. Never seen so many and big spiders anywhere. If I didn't have poles, the tough webs would have stopped me.
At the bivouac the Gray Wall starts, very rugged and you have to find the best passages yourself. Almost no marks left.
Although we mostly climbed the easiest passages, we still hit at least three short III degree details.
Above the scenic grassy ledge (Belvedere) we continued past Montaz Sphinx to Suringar bivouac and on along Findenegg snowfield to Montaz summit.
Descent via Via Amalija, now newly equipped and looks like a real ferrata. Below the wall we shortened the path (no need to Stuparich bivouac) on the right side of the gully (looking down) into the basin of Kugy path to Montaz. Along the gully or beside it we reached transverse path 652 and on it to Krnica notch or saddle and from there to Dunja valley to the car, arriving by 18:00.
Definitely one of the wildest and most picturesque approaches in the Julians.
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| skalaš705. 08. 2016 12:20:46 |
Nicely described path, nice photos and safe steps ahead!
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| koma5. 08. 2016 12:36:49 |
Nice..
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| sla5. 08. 2016 12:49:27 |
photo 26 with comment - super
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| knap42275. 08. 2016 13:01:04 |
on pic 26 I only saw one small one, nothing more. Nice tour, will be repeated.
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| redbull5. 08. 2016 14:15:26 |
Nice description-pics-congrats
good luck
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| dprapr6. 08. 2016 08:02:13 |
Thanks everyone.
The tour also made a big impression on me.
Crossing above the wild gorge, huge spiders, abundance of water, remote bivouac, Siva stena, famous Belvedere ledge and finally Findenegg glacier with stone cannonade that we experienced twice..
In variety of the "path" it's very comparable to the approach to Široka peč from Martuljek. But it's one third longer. And at the end there's a spiced and long descent via Vie Amalie and Krniška škrbina to Dunja, which is actually the shortest descent back to the car.
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| lijaneja6. 08. 2016 17:38:56 |
Magnificent tour, even for 'old cats'. Drago, thanks for the detailed description backed by nice photos, so even us mortals can relive this sheer wilderness.
Ha, @knap, only now I got it about the young ones. Otherwise they say that the young one has ears longer than horns
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| knap42276. 08. 2016 20:24:25 |
'lijaneja' that about the ears I'll forward soon. It's a ''goat'', not parts
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| redbull5. 08. 2018 07:35:20 |
Via Dogna and return via Ferrata Norina (04.08.18)
We had eyed it and were well informed about it. Traverse right towards green triangle. Little men and some red blazes found at those spots. Of course couldn't go without spiders as Drago described two years ago. Your pics helped me too. Paso Cativ, it started even before climbing left. Incredible ridge of spears, per Mihelič sword ridge. Natural bivouac Muschi on right hard to miss. Wild is this gray wall above Clapadorie. Towards summit before exiting to Belvedere it's a III climb, look for easier passages for yourself. Above that not far, when you spot on left always fascinating sphinx. Path ahead marked past Suringar and snowfield to Montaža summit. We copied Mihelič and descended under Klavni Noži/Curtissons, all to Zabuš and steep grass to Peklenskih vrat-Forka di Vandul. Piko Viene and already at start of Norine ferrata. Nice ferrata, but what when lower part below it never ends. Branch 655 nowhere or overgrown. To Cividale bivouac also through snow tunnel that formed. Water plenty on sections, though some dehydration on me still visible. In Dunja stream we cooled and went on. Path 651/branch nowhere, so no choice but drop everything and jog slowly road to car, it was incredible 9 km and 300 m height. It was really nice, incredibly wild 13h above Clapadorie neighborhood.
Good luck
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| nenap5. 08. 2018 16:39:44 |
Nice but on pic 11 it's not Belvedere 
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| dprapr5. 08. 2018 17:39:45 |
Regarding Belvedere (Na Videžu) opinions differ.
Fact is that first approacher Brazza mentions it where difficulties end. That's the scenic point on pic 11. Dejan shot it upwards, so we don't see the "real" one.
I envy you yesterday's tour, spiced with long and interesting descent via Norina.
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| nenap5. 08. 2018 18:09:20 |
Drago we don't see that "real" Belvedere
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| redbull5. 08. 2018 18:18:20 |
Bravo Drago. No need for me to write, as you said shot upwards. You shot downwards.
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| redbull5. 08. 2018 18:22:58 |
Out of the III, standing there.
Show the pic, Nenap, what is the real Belvedere for you.
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| nenap5. 08. 2018 18:37:30 |
Dejan Belvedere is best when standing on it, can't miss it if you go to polz
P.S.: No pics 'cause they're not for thaaaaat
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| janez.novak5. 08. 2018 18:49:44 |
I was also hiking those parts today, so we could have met. From Pecola over Vandul notch and Viene to Strmo peč. You two again did what is unimaginable for normal hikers. First Montaz, then steep and dangerous descent from Zabuš.
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| redbull5. 08. 2018 19:40:15 |
Nenap there is a better chat, go stress nonsense there
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| redbull5. 08. 2018 22:21:43 |
Maybe you know what the exact literal translation from Italian means (bell-bello is beautiful,vedere is to see,look)
Montaz via dunja is one big belvedere, in this quite long tour everyone can choose their own belvedere and from it enjoy the view and drink in the beauties of this landscape. For many who have climbed this route the belvedere is the entire path, as it is incredible, at least to me extremely beautiful.
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| sAleska6. 08. 2018 08:07:54 |
A few years ago I planned to Bivacco Muschi but turned back just below it. Lucky. Below there was already strong smoke, because everywhere was burning, firefighters on the road ...
Redbull please, where and what did you copy from Mihelič? Maybe somewhere a route description under Klavni noži? Can you tell more? Thanks.
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