With Nejc we decided to ascend Vevnica, V Koncu Špica and Kotovo Špica on Saturday. With the van on Friday afternoon to Planica and packed under the trees before the former ramp. To Dom v Tamarju then by bikes (without electric). We didn't gain much with that, but a lot the next day on the return. At the hut we planned to buy two cans of Laško before sleeping in the bivak, but they only have bottles. To the bivak ten past nine, just as the day was fading. Two guys were already in it, so we all lay quite comfortably.
In the morning we set off onward only around seven. First we climbed to 2000m altitude, walked along it for about 20 minutes and reached the desired gully. The gully is indeed quite exposed, but still wide enough and comfortable. Interestingly, a large part is equipped with bolts. I really don't know for whom, since it's certainly not for alpinists, we scree guys don't need them here either, and regular hikers don't go on such demanding pathless terrain anyway. The gully rises evenly all the time, so in three-quarters of an hour we gained 100m. (pics 5-11) This gully brings you under the southeast slopes of Vevnica. Here we turned left into the compact rocky gully, which was entirely in shade. Very pleasant. When we reached the sun again, we turned right and scrambled over the rocks left of the scree valley toward the ridge of the eastern forepeak of Vevnica. We reached the main summit at 9:15. From it we already looked toward the next one, V Koncu Špica. From here the ascent to it right of its ridge seems impossible. But when you reach the foot of the Špica, you see that a wide, unexposed gully leads to it here, which is not overly steep either. The continuation along the ridge toward Kotova Špica is interrupted by two jumps, which are equipped with belay anchors for rope descent. The first very steep jump we free-climbed (pics 27 and 28), since the rock was very good. The second, which was even overhanging, we bypassed left over two exposed ledges. Then to the summit there were no more difficulties.
The ridge continues from the summit for another good hundred meters, until it starts dropping toward Kotovo sedlo. Here, a couple of meters before the end, we look for the anchor right of the ridge for the first of five rope descents. We decided that the best would be if I, roped, climb over each descent, find the next anchor, belay to it, then Nejc descends to me on the rope. The first three and the fifth I could climb in an emergency even without protection, but not the fourth. At the end, you also have to go over a steep smooth slab, whose top also has an anchor (pic 42), which I think no one who is able to get here needs.
All this ropework took us an hour and a half. To the bivak we needed another three-quarters of an hour and just under an hour and a half to Laško in Tamarju. Then on the bikes and in just over half an hour we were already riding from Planica toward Kranj for a late lunch at Gorenjec. For a nice conclusion, we unexpectedly met my longtime scree companion Tone there.