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Mountain ranges / Otztal Alps / Hohe Geige / Parkirišče pred Plangeroßom v Pitztalu - Hohe Geige (smer preko zahodnega grebena (I-II))

Parkirišče pred Plangeroßom v Pitztalu - Hohe Geige (smer preko zahodnega grebena (I-II))

Starting point: Parkirišče pred Plangeroßom v Pitztalu (1602 m)
Starting point Lat/Lon: 46.99136°N 10.86787°E 
Destination: Hohe Geige (3394 m)
Path name: smer preko zahodnega grebena (I-II)
Time of walking: 5 h
Difficulty: very difficult marked way
Difficulty of skiing: very demanding
Altitude difference: 1792 m
Altitude difference (by path): 1792 m
Map: Ötztaler Alpen Geigenkamm, 30/5 1:25.000
Author: pg
Views: 589
Trip rating: 3 votes
Number of pictures: 61
Access to starting point:
From Ljubljana, we drive on the highway past Salzburg in the direction towards München. At the multilevel junction Dreieck Inntal we go on the road A93 in the direction of Innsbruck/Kufstein/Brenner. When we return to Austria we continue on the highway A12 past Innsbruck, Telfs and Ötztal Bahnhof to a roundabout near Imst, where we go on the road which leads into the valley Pitztal. On in parts a little narrower valley road, we are good 30 km mostly ascending, until few hundred meters before the tourist center Plangeroß we notice a large free parking lot with information boards with proposed ascents in mountain ranges of Kaunergrat and Geigenkamm.
Path description:
From the parking lot, we turn towards the east and follow the path which leads towards Rüsselsheimer Hütte, we cross the road and among rare vegetation we start moderately steeply ascending on a zig zag footpath. Considerably monotonous, but panoramic path for some time leads on a grassy slope, and a little higher crosses a lane of a steep mountain forest. Soon after we return on open slopes, where we can be pampered by wonderful views on Kaunergrat, with the help of a wooden bridge we cross the torrent, and a little higher at the traversing of moderately steep slopes we can also use the help of individual chains (undemanding). With increasingly beautiful views, the footpath after a good hour and a half of not very strenuous walking, brings us to Rüsselsheimer Hütte on the edge of the high plateau of Geige group.

From the mountain hut, we for some time follow a relatively gentle path in the direction of Mainzer Hohenweg and both marked approaches on Hohe Geige. Soon the path branches off, which on Mainzer Hohenweg continues towards Braunschweiger Hütte, and after 20-30 minutes of walking from the hut, at the next signpost split also the paths on Hohe Geige: at that crossing we go left towards the western ridge ("Westgrat") and Gahwinden.
The path which at first crosses towards the north, steeply ascends towards the exposed slope above Pitztalom, on which with the help of some chains safely leads a wide enough footpath. In doing so we cross a steep gully and over a grassy slope we ascend towards Gahwinden (2649 meters) to the far edge of the western ridge of Hohe Geige, where we get to a panorama sign, bench and small cross high above the valley Pitztal.

From the panorama sign we go towards the western ridge, which is at first wide and easy passable. Soon less steep grassy terrain passes into steeper rocks, for which there are characteristic for regular visitors of Austrian high mountains well known large rocky plates. In case if we follow a (well) marked route they are in spite of otherwise crumbly nature of the mountain, quite reliable, therefore the climbing in this part is pleasant and not too strenuous.
In front of us there is a good hour of unsecured, but decently marked climbing on a panoramic ridge, which mostly remains inside I. grade, the grade is only on individual spots possibly slightly higher. Despite the ridge nature, the route in this part isn't very exposed.
After a little less than hour of climbing we get to a larger plain in the middle of a rocky ridge, from where a nice view opens up towards Hohe Geige and the continuation of the path there. Here the steepness and difficulty for a short time decrease a little, and the path relatively gently leads to the upper part of the ridge, which soon becomes narrow, demanding and exposed, but secured. From here to the top, the path isn't marked anymore.
With the help of quite new steel cables, which in the view of crumbly terrain are not always entirely reliable, we carefully cross the serrated part of the ridge and on a little loose rocks we descend to a diagonal path which runs few ten meters below the ridge and connects the normal and the ridge approach on Hohe Geige. Near the juncture of the paths, with the help of tight steel cable we very steeply ascend back on the ridge. From here to the ample terrain below Hohe Geige we have few minutes of in parts secured walking through exposed ridge.

On the high mountain plateau, which isn't visible from the foot because of the massif of Hohe Geige, there is the end of technical problems, and a well-beaten path by the edge of a glacial lake leads on a relatively gentle remnants of the glacier; in this part the snow stays also during the high summer, but winter equipment for crossing isn't needed. Above the snow field we go left and with the help of rare cairns or sense to find the best passages, at the eastern edge of the upper massif of Hohe Geige we ascend towards the panoramic and ample summit with a (less) traditional cross.

Hohe Geige by the difficulty of the approach doesn't reach the highest peaks of parallel mountain range Kaunergrat, like Watzespitze, with complexity of the ascent it also cannot be compared with approach on, for example, the highest peak of Ötztal Alps, Wildspitze, but in spite of that this path is a serious high-altitude ascent, which demands appropriate mountaineering experience, physical preparation and reliable stride. Even though they are well visited, both classic approaches on Hohe Geige run on a quite wild and remote high mountain environment, which is very crumbly. Very crumbly is especially the upper part of normal approach ("Normalweg"), which is technically slightly easier as the described path on the western ridge, but because of the great danger of falling stones and long walking on "crumbly" terrain in last years it is less and less recommended. For this reason it is recommended, that at least in the upper part both at the ascent and descent we use the ridge route - for this purpose there is settled also with chains secured connection between the both paths. Even though the western ridge even after they secure the most tricky spots on the narrower part of the ridge, keeps the characteristics of an easier climbing path, the ascent and descent there are much safer and less strenuous as the normal path, which steeply ascends on the south side of the mountain.
On the way: Rüsselsheimer Hütte (2323m), Gahwinden (2649m)
Pictures:
Parkirišče pred Plangeroßom v Pitztalu - Hohe Geige1
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