Plaz Črlovec - Kukova špica (via SE outside corner)

Access to starting point:
We leave Gorenjska highway at exit Hrušica and follow the road ahead in the direction of Kranjska Gora. Just a little before the village Dovje the road which goes to Mojstrana (Vrata, Kot and Krma) branches off to the left. We follow the road ahead in the direction of valley Vrata and we drive there past the mountain hut Koča pri Peričniku to the spot, where a large landslide crosses the road. Here we park on one of the parking lots by the road.

Path description:
On bottom side of the gulley we will notice a footpath which is at first ascending gently by the gulley named Črlovec. Soon the path starts ascending steeper and brings us between the both torrential gulleys (Mali and Veliki Črlovec). The path is then in zig-zags steeply ascending mostly through a dense forest. After two hours of walking, we step on diagonal path (Poldov rovt - Vrtaško sleme), where we continue left. Further, we descend few meters and we cross a gully of Veliki Črlovec (in wet dangerous for slipping). After that, the path still crosses slopes towards the left and it brings us out of the forest on the scree vegetated with dwarf pines. Here we need to pay attention, because we have to leave the path, two gullies before the turn-off of "normal path" on Kukova špica. The groove is steeply ascending and already in the groove we meet some climbing spot of II. grade. Soon the groove closes and the continuation is prevented by an overhang. At the overhang, we go from the right towards the left (III/IV), after few meters the route brings us into a nice hollow, where we can decide for two options: straight upwards and to the foot of the outside corner, where there is a piton for a descent into a gully below us and continuation on steep grass to the beginning of the route, or from the piton straight up (IV. grade), delicate traverse to the left approx. 30 meters (IV. grade) and in a crumbly rocky slope below the base, which we reach from the left side (I grade - easy). I recommend a descent on a rope and continuation on rough gully to a base, because traverse is mentally very strenuous.
When we are once below the foot of the outside corner, the route really begins. From the starting point to here we need approximately 3 hours. Follow four pitches of enjoyable climbing on open outside corner (route is quite well equipped, I still recommend set of friends, two piton pegs and five "Jesenice pegs". On a very exposed wall we are getting closer to the last anchor before we leave the wall with long traverse to the right. To here it is best to stick as close as possible to outside corner and we don't go to far away from the fall-line of the outside corner as well, because in this case climbing will be much harder. To the traverse, the mountain wall is very steep but problems don't exceed IV. grade. Next follows a long traverse to the right, at first around small secondary outside corner, and then through a crumbly gully and lastly on crubly ledge to the exit wall, below Prižnica. On Prižnica problems end. But at the exit wall we need to make a real effort, that we reach Prižnica. The last part starts from the piton straight upwards, passage to the right (very clumsy) and few more meters on good holds to a ledge, where we set the belaying. From the ledge to Prižnica is only a walk on broken rocks and grassy terrain.
Continuation of the route continues on a broken upper ridge (at least 2 hours) to the top of Kukova špica. On a very panoramic ridge we quite quickly move forward towards the summit, meanwhile we can still get surprised by some III. grade climbing, but we shouldn't have any bigger problems. Very panoramic route, compact rock and wild ambient. It belongs among classics, but it is true that the "approach" can be harder as the route itself. Probably there is no need to emphasize, that the route on the southeast outside corner is a climbing ascent where there are mandatory midway belaying and rules of climbing in a roped party with all the associated equipment.
If we come to the route over Kukovi prodi difficulty of access significantly decreases (I-II.) We descend on Gulce.