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Mountain ranges / Julian Alps / Visoki Rokav / Poldov rovt (Vrata) - Visoki Rokav (via Veliki Oltar (ridge way))

Poldov rovt (Vrata) - Visoki Rokav (via Veliki Oltar (ridge way))

Starting point: Poldov rovt (Vrata) (941 m)
Path name: via Veliki Oltar (ridge way)
Time of walking: 9 h
Difficulty: very difficult pathless terrain
Difficulty of skiing: no data
Altitude difference: 1705 m
Altitude difference (by path): 1705 m
Map: Triglav 1:25.000
Author: JusAvgustin
Views: 19,158
Trip rating: 4 votes
Number of pictures: 11
Access to starting point:
We leave Gorenjska highway at exit Hrušica and follow the road ahead in the direction of Kranjska Gora. Just a little before the village Dovje the road which goes to Mojstrana (Vrata, Kot and Krma) branches off to the left. We follow the road ahead in the direction of valley Vrata and we drive there a little further from the road sign 10km. Here from the right side a cart track branches off. On the left side of the cart track on grass there is placed a relatively large cairn. Near the cart track we park on one of the smaller parking lots.
Path description:
We go on a cart track which runs into the forest and then past a smaller house, where we continue slightly to the left on a footpath. Through the forest, we are ascending slightly to the left towards the stream Rdeči potok. A little before the stream, the path over Brinje branches off to the right (placed cairn, and on the tree is carved some kind of face and letter L). The path then brings us to a riverbed of the stream. Here the path goes on the right side (left bank) upwards and then it soon crosses the stream on the left side. The path is ascending through a small valley until we get to a smaller mountain wall, where we usually also run into a well. The path goes from here right and on a natural passage steeply ascends. Slightly exposed and not secured. We are above the small waterfall (if there is water). Here we come out of the forest and we ascend on some scree. The path on the scree isn't comfortable because storms and avalanches every year wreck the path. The path soon turns slightly to the right and for a short time ascends on a grassy slope. Next again follows the ascent by the scree and we soon come to bivouac Bivak na Jezerih, which we will notice on our left. Here we can sleep or only shelter in case of a storm. Here the terrain flattens. A view on Triglav is from here very nice.
The path from here ahead is slowly vanishing but we can still follow it. We walk on a meadow named Na Jezerih (here supposedly used to be a lake). The path here turns slightly towards the right. Straight in front of us we see Dovški Križ. And our path goes into a wall a little left from Dovški Križ. We look for the path which goes on steep slopes. The path isn't hard to find because by the path are placed cairns. Here the path becomes quite demanding. First, we steeply ascend on a rocky slope, and then follows exposed crossing to the left without any fixed safety gear. In wet great risk of slipping. When we overcome this rocky jump we come on the ridge. Here we go left and descend a little on a saddle Grlo. We come on the scree below Oltar on which we start ascending. We notice a distinct gully (straight) and go towards it. We follow cairns, which point us a little left from the gully. The slope is becoming increasingly steep and also slightly crumbly. Towards the top we again go towards the right, so that we reach the main ridge exactly above the notch. Here we continue few meters on the northern side of the ridge and then again ascend on the ridge. Next follows only few meters of walking on exposed ridge to the top. From the main peak we go on the ridge towards Visoki rokav. To the notch we are avoiding rocky jumps to the left, into a notch we descend on a rope (30 meters). From the notch ahead we stick right from the main ridge, we are in the upper massif of Visoki Rokav and all around us is very crumbly. The path to the plate is shown by cairns, which are quite frequently placed. When we find the last cairn we go diagonally towards the penultimate rock spike. Here we get to the key part of the ascent, smooth plate (10 meters, III.). From the top of the rock spike we descend on a crumbly terrain into the notch between the last and penultimate rock spike, next follows two more pitches of very crumbly terrain and finally we are standing on Visoki Rokav. It isn't necessary to emphasize that the ridge crossing is a rock climbing ascent with difficulty level up to III., ridge is precipitous, crumbly and very exposed, complete climbing equipment is mandatory, it is best to go on Visoki Rokav with someone, who had already been there, and even better in company of a mountain guide. The ascent on Oltar is very demanding pathless terrain with climbing to 2nd grade. Highly recommended is use of belaying.
Despite numerous cairns, which help us finding easier passages the orientation is still demanding.
On the way: Bivak na Jezerih (2118m), Grlo (2429m), Veliki Oltar (2621m)
Pictures:
Poldov rovt (Vrata) - Visoki Rokav1
Poldov rovt (Vrata) - Visoki Rokav2
Poldov rovt (Vrata) - Visoki Rokav3
Poldov rovt (Vrata) - Visoki Rokav4
Poldov rovt (Vrata) - Visoki Rokav5
Poldov rovt (Vrata) - Visoki Rokav6
Poldov rovt (Vrata) - Visoki Rokav7
Poldov rovt (Vrata) - Visoki Rokav8
Poldov rovt (Vrata) - Visoki Rokav9
Poldov rovt (Vrata) - Visoki Rokav10
Poldov rovt (Vrata) - Visoki Rokav11
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