Spodnje Rute / Untergreuth - Mittagskogel/Kepa (path on NE ridge)
Starting point: Spodnje Rute / Untergreuth (650 m)
Route name: path on NE ridge
Walking time: 4 h
Difficulty: very difficult unmarked way
Elevation gain: 1493 m
Elevation difference along the route: 1550 m
Map: Julijske Alpe - vzhodni del. 1 : 50.000
Recommended equipment (summer): helmet
Recommended equipment (winter): helmet, ice axe, crampons
Views: 15.365
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Access to starting point:
We drive through the Karawanks Tunnel and from there along the regional road towards Bekštajn / Finkenstein. A few 100 m before Loče / Latschach, 639 m, we turn left onto a local road that runs towards the village Ratenče, from which a local road branches off to the left, leading to Spodnje Rute / Untergreuth.
Route description:
From Spodnje Rute, a signpost with numbers 681 and 680 directs us towards the southwest past the inn Martinihof (on Slovenian maps marked with the Slovenian name Hoja) and from there along path no. 681 past the homestead Kobvar onto a steep forested hill, from which we descend into the gully of the stream Borovnica. Here we join the forest road from the right, which leads to the hut but is closed to traffic with a gate. This area is called Iljčev rut. From here on, we can go either along the road or along the path, which from here is marked with no. 680 (also KWW – no. 603). This runs along the road to the hut, and somewhat to the left of it runs a parallel path. This avoids numerous road bends and is much more pleasant and at the same time represents a shorter access. After 2 hours of walking, we reach Bertina koča / Bertahütte, 1527 m; in its immediate vicinity stands Koča pod Kepo / Mittagskogelhütte.
From the hut, we descend to the saddle Borovščica. There we leave the marked path and turn right onto an unmarked path, along which we ascend quite steeply through the forest to a narrow ridge rocky spur. This is at the beginning quite exposed (spot of II. difficulty degree), but three pitons help with protection. When we climb over the key part, the steepness flattens for a moment, and the difficulties end for now. We continue the ascent along a path that winds among dwarf pines, through which we quickly break through; then follows a steep ascent over crumbly scree, until we reach more rocky terrain. The rock is more or less solid and quite rugged; markings in the form of red arrows and red dots help us in searching for the easiest passages. We quickly advance to the forepeak, on which stands the second cross. From there we ascend to the main peak along a well-visible path on the left side of the ridge (on the map Julijske Alpe - eastern part, the path is marked as marked, although it is considered unmarked despite the mentioned markings, which facilitate finding passages. The mistake is corrected in the Sidarta map Julijske Alpe, where it is properly marked).
Photos:
Discussion about the trip Spodnje Rute / Untergreuth - Mittagskogel/Kepa (path on NE ridge)
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| Matjaz_6515. 08. 2013 |
of course it's the northeastern ridge or rather the gully 
some more of my photos 
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| klm17. 07. 2014 |
That's right. I hope the administrator corrects the title.
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| Behemot26. 07. 2015 |
This week I climbed the NE ridge solo. At the hardest spot (2 short pitches) there are now already 9 pegs, of which 3 expansion bolts at belay stances and 6 normal pegs. Peg locations. At the start of the steep wall there is a normal peg, then in the steepest part just above the hardest traverse left a normal peg and 2 m higher on the ledge an expansion bolt (possible belay). Follows a traverse on the right side past a flake, where there is a placed ring. In the notch 5 m behind the flake again an arranged belay from two expansion bolts. Follows a 15 m traverse left (3 normal pegs) and the significant difficulties are over. In the route itself in the upper third I also found one normal peg.
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| Behemot28. 10. 2019 |
I would like to emphasize something regarding the difficulty. The NE ridge of Kepa belongs more to the category of easier alpine routes than to very demanding unmarked paths. The above-described hardest spot in the ridge, namely, carries a UIAA grade of II+ in alpine literature because it is no small matter for inexperienced climbers to climb an open wall without rope belaying.
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| dprapr6. 08. 2022 16:05:19 |
Definitely II+ there.
The traverse to the left is also not for everyone without protection.
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| banGore21. 10. 2024 10:16:12 |
On the path map, the climbing route of UIAA grade II ("climbing starts here") is marked with red dots. The usual return path is marked with a line. The route description applies to the climbing route.
The forest path is not marked but sufficiently trodden so that orientation poses no problems. The rocky path is excellently marked everywhere with red dots and arrows.
There are no pegs left, not a single one. I noticed some peg holes, but the pegs were cut off to the rock. The rock itself is mostly good, crumbling in a few places.
For those experienced in unprotected climbing and fans of "walking" using hands for balance, the route is a real pleasure due to the sufficiently good rock. I would advise it against others, as it is almost vertical in places and requires basic climbing knowledge, great trust in footwear, foot and hand placement, and steady nerves on the exposed wall with limited holds.
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| garmont1. 06. 2026 11:22:10 |
It would be hard to speak of an unmarked path, as there are so many markings here that I have not yet seen on our marked paths. 
The road to the parking lot below the hut, which can otherwise be reached by car, is in very poor condition. Cars with lower ground clearance will have a hard time.
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