Janja's sixth victory at the jubilee 30th World Series competition in Koper

Climbing spectacle in Koper at this year's jubilee again with victory of the most successful Slovenian sport climber Janja Garnbret. The unbeatable Carinthian achieved her record sixth victory at the World Series competition in Koper, which is the 15th Slovenian victory at the home competition, and once again proved that she is the most successful in the history of sport climbing. The second Slovenian finalist Rosa Rekar finished in an excellent 5th place. The atmosphere was excellent, in two days around 8000 spectators cheered for the climbers in Koper.







Slovenian climber Janja Garnbret is a very special phenomenon. Two-time Olympic champion, ten-time world champion, European champion in difficulty, bouldering and combined, and 10-time overall winner in the overall World Cup standings. In total, she has an incredible 51 victories at World Cup competitions. She also achieved extraordinary successes in rock this year, as the first woman she managed to climb the route Bibliographie with a grade of 9b+. She confirmed her form at this World Series competition in Koper. In the final of the World Series in difficulty climbing, she swung to the top with a height of 42+, which is a record sixth victory. In Kranj and Koper she had previously reached the final nine times, and twice she was second or third respectively.



Janja Garnbret: "Today I wanted to go all the way and the Carinthian in me did not let go. I was really stubborn, I must say that I climbed the route as I imagined, although in between I gave myself a little heart attack, but I got out of it. Today it was extremely humid and I was more fighting to stay on the wall than climbing the route. Of course, the support of the people kept me on the wall all the time and I am glad that I could climb in such conditions. But I would not have wanted a better competition now, when I compete a little less, because it is different because of that. Even if there are fewer competitions, I am in a competitive spirit, because I am a competitor in soul and heart. I enjoy this, here at the competition in Koper from the qualifications onwards, I was calm, reassured, satisfied with myself and I am glad that I could show that today. The audience is fantastic, every year it is super to perform here, because my friends and family are here, I do not know if the anthem was ever so loud."



Janja also remembered the competition in Kranj 2019: "When I was not in the final, there were many different factors, one of them was also children shouting. It was not easy for me to climb then, but I really liked it and turned it to my advantage. It keeps you on the wall, keeps you upright and motivates you. It is also possible that among these children a new Janja will be forged."

She was glad that the finalists of previous competitions were also in Koper: "I know they were here and I think it is really nice, it is a great honor for me to climb in front of them, because each of them added a piece to Slovenian climbing. I think even Martina Čufar Potard does not realize what she did for Slovenian climbing, because everyone had to be first once and every girl of course looked back, and this continued to me and I am glad that I am part, a piece of this Slovenian climbing, so that others can look up to me."



Janja still has a competition in Santiago at the end of October: "I have not been to South America yet and I do not know what the climbing scene is like there. I am glad to go there and to show my passion and spread this love among other people."

Also on the podium with Janja were American Brooke Raboutou, who climbed to second place with a height of 33, and Korean Chaehyun Seo, who climbed to third place with a height of 32+.

Rosa Rekar is one of the most promising Slovenian sport climbers. Last season she finished excellently with 2nd place at the World Championship in difficulty climbing. In this season she practically climbed in the final at all competitions and placed just below the podium. At the home competition in Koper she placed in an excellent 5th place after an excellent performance in the semifinal in the final with a height of 30.



"I always tell myself, as a young competitor, that results are not the most important, because at the end of the competition I will always first look at how I climbed. Unfortunately today I am not most satisfied with my climbing, but I will take things from the competition where I can progress and correct them at the next competition. Today I was quite nervous, especially because of the first part of the route, where it was necessary to jump, in such moves I sometimes go a little scared. If I had gone more confidently, I could have also climbed a little more fully forward. But I was extremely thrilled with the energy of the fans, they were quite loud. The atmosphere in Koper is super every year, the audience definitely helped me today," added Rosa Rekar.

Selector Gorazd Hren after the competition: "I am quite satisfied with today's performance. I am sorry that we could not bring the boys to the final, so that it would be an even more exceptional evening. I know Rosa was disappointed, and I understand why. I think she climbed well, the route was difficult. Janja climbed exceptionally, she really scared us on that move that decided for the podium. I think it was precisely because of the home competition and the home audience that she caught on, continued and then for herself, for us and for the fans climbed the last part with the last strength. I think it was an exceptional performance, it was a nice evening and a nice celebration of sport climbing."

In Koper it was extremely hot this time, we also asked Gorazd about that: "It would be most fair if climbing was in the hall and all competitors had the same conditions, although I think that in the time when eight climbers climb, the conditions do not change significantly. But Janja said that she slipped and that this mistake happened precisely because of that."

"The season is not over yet, ahead of us in October is the difficulty competition in Santiago. The team among the girls is definitely strong, among the boys it will definitely be Luka Potočar. This competition will have to be carried out, then deserved rest and then we will already be in the new season, which will of course be extremely important," concluded Hren.



At the Koper competition this time 147 sport climbers from 36 countries competed, among them a 12-member Slovenian team led by selector Gorazd Hren and national team coaches Luka Fonda, Domen Švab and Anže Štremfelj. Slovenian colors were also represented by semifinalists Mia Krampl in 20th place, Lučka Rakovec in 21st, Sara Čopar in 23rd place and semifinalist Luka Potočar, who finished the competition in 24th place.

The home competition was finished in qualifications by Lucija Tarkuš in 31st place, Lana Gorič in 45th, Jaka Jaki in 47th, Lovro Črep in 50th, Jennifer Buckley in 51st and Samo Golob in 53rd place.



This World Series competition was especially festive. We celebrated 30 years (25 years of Kranj and 5 years of Koper) of the World Cup in difficulty climbing in Slovenia. The competition did not only attract the best climbers from all over the world, but also Slovenian representatives who were finalists of either the Kranj or Koper competition. Fans in Koper greeted: Martina Čufar Potard, Maja Štremfelj, Mateja Sova, Tomaž Valjavec, Mina Markovič, Lučka Franko, Klemen Bečan, Urban Primožič, Janja Garnbret, Vita Lukan, Lučka Rakovec, Mia Krampl, Luka Potočar, Milan Preskar, Rosa Rekar and Lucija Tarkuš. Absent were Natalija Gros Kunaver, Domen Škofic and Vita Lukan.



"As a fan I watched the competition much more relaxed, although it was also tense, especially among the girls because of the attractive and risky moves, where Janja and Rosa made sure that I was really nervous, at those jumps and especially at Janja, who had already fallen once and I do not know how she saved herself. I am glad that I saw this spectacle in Koper live once, because I was only at competitions in Kranj before, also already as a spectator, and I see that it is really a big sports spectacle. I always get goosebumps when I hear the Zdravljica, so it was very emotional at Janja's victory. I do not remember my victories in Kranj very well anymore, I remember more that one from Switzerland when I became world champion," summarized Martina Čufar Potard after the competition.

The best competitors at the top of the world change, but Tomo Česen remains. For 30 years he has been indispensable in the organization of the Slovenian competition in sport climbing and emphasizes that he persists because of our best competitors who deserve it. With special thanks from the Alpine Association of Slovenia for the contribution to the development of sport climbing and the organization of 30 World Cup competitions in Slovenia, for effort, heart and loyalty, he was honored by the president of the international federation World Climbing Marco Maria Scolaris and the president of PZS Martin Šolar.



"I was really surprised what they prepared for me. But all the people who also work on the competition must not be forgotten. There is a whole crowd of us so that such an event can be carried out, so everyone deserves recognition, because you cannot do anything alone," emphasized Česen, who glowed in the company of former finalists: "They were very happy with the invitation, also because they felt that they had not been forgotten - they must not be forgotten, because they are to blame for all this that is happening now. If we did not have such an atmosphere in Slovenia, these role models, it is not certain that Janja would have developed as she did. They were role models for her, as she is now a role model for others and someone who is made of the right stuff might be made sometime in the future. But it is true that the competition around the world is terrifying and it is necessary to work even better and there is no guarantee that something will happen."



"The women's final route was really difficult, that is something Janja actually wants. Here the difference between the others and her was shown. The fact is that she is currently the best, probably because she trains on as if nothing had happened, as she once said. I think there will not be such a one for a long time, anywhere in the world - such a focused and dedicated athlete, who seems a little crazy to normal people," assesses the legendary coach, selector and competition organizer, who emphasizes that the Zdravljica is a special, emotional moment for him every time.



The jubilee 30th World Series competition in difficulty, which has been taking place in Koper for the fifth year, was of course an unforgettable experience both for spectators and for competitors. With the top additional offer, excellent weather conditions and support of the local community, this competition certainly raised it another step higher. We look forward to everything that is still coming to Koper.