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Mountain ranges / Julian Alps / Tosc / Krma - Tosc (severni pristop iz Bohinjskih vratc)

Krma - Tosc (severni pristop iz Bohinjskih vratc)

Starting point: Krma (946 m)
Destination: Tosc (2275 m)
Path name: severni pristop iz Bohinjskih vratc
Time of walking: 5 h
Difficulty: partly demanding marked way, very difficult pathless terrain
Difficulty of skiing: no data
Altitude difference: 1329 m
Altitude difference (by path): 1330 m
Map: Triglav 1:25000
Author: alyas
Views: 1,980
Trip rating: 11 votes
Number of pictures: 44
Access to starting point:
From Mojstrana on Gorenjska we drive to the valley Krma, where we turn on the forest road towards mountain hut Kovinarska koča, and from there further to the end of the road on a parking lot Pri Lesi, where there are already the signs for Triglav national park.
Path description:
At the end of the forest road or from the parking lot Pri Lesi, we begin our tour at first on a gently sloping road. The worse road for some time continues over some smaller gravel terrain, and then it starts slightly rising and changes into a rocky cart track. When we get across a little bigger torrent, the path starts ascending steeper through more dense forest. Higher out of the forest, the path passes into a lane of dwarf pines, mixed with bushes, and on the mentioned slope we are ascending on gravel, with several bigger rocks. A little less than an hour of walking, somewhere at an altitude of approximately 1400 meters the path again flattens and it brings us on a nice grassy plain named Vrtača. On the other side of the plain, the path again starts ascending and after approximately 15 minutes of additional walking brings us on Malo polje, where by the path in the middle of the plain among bigger boulders we notice a crossing, where there are often cairns, except faded signs and blazes, there aren't any other signs for Bohinjska vratca or Vodnikov dom, because the main marked path further leads towards Triglav.
We continue on tiny footpath left in the direction of Bohinjska vratca and Vodnikov dom. Poorly beaten and poorly marked footpath starts gradually ascending, at first through a thin larch forest and then it brings us to wide scree. The path on the scree upwards is becoming increasingly steep and it is in numerous hairpin turns winding towards the saddle between Vernar and Tosc - named Bohinjska vratca. The last part of the path below the saddle is steeper and crumbly, and because of the proximity of the vertical walls below Vernar there is increased danger of falling stones.
From Bohinjska vratca we turn left (right - Vernar, downwards - Vodnikov dom), towards the mighty walls of Tosc with wide and graduated rock bands. Already after few ten meters, we get to a quite demanding initial and steep approx 8 meters chimney (I-II grade of climbing), which luckily has enough footholds and holds, that we can successfully overcome. Who has too many problems with climbing here, continuing further is not recommended, because are at the ascent there at least two more such demanding spots, where we have to ascend over a shorter rocky ascent or rocky band.
The easiest ascent – is in the most optimal direction somehow in triple turns: over the first chimney upwards, to the left, over a rocky band, to the right, over a rocky band, to the left, over a rocky ascent and then diagonally to the right through three smaller tongues of the scree and eventually for the last time to the left on shallow and crumbly ridge all the way to the upper grassy terrain (look the picture). Few cairns is otherwise always there, but sometimes they are unfortunately not on the right places, therefore to choose the best direction always look around beforehand, and not just follow the cairns.
In general it is considered, that the rocky ascent to the left side is steeper and more demanding for the ascent, and to the right side – looking upwards, it is less steep but the terrain more crumbly, so there is great risk of falling stones, especially for those who are ascending behind us. Therefore few midway green transverses we use to find passages upwards. Passages over rocky sections or rock bands in the second half or further are not very demanding and by coosing a good direction don't exceed the difficulty of the first initial chimney, for less experienced in climbing and orientation, it is recommended to be escorted by a guide and use occasional belaying, especially at passages over some harder band.
A descent from the peak of Tosc is usually done on normal approach and marked path, which leads from the south side, but this path around to Vodnikov dom and back to Bohinjska vratca – if you go back to Krma, is quite long and in the summer very hot.
On the way: Bohinjska vratca (1979m)
Pictures:
Krma  - Tosc1
Krma  - Tosc2
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Krma  - Tosc4
Krma  - Tosc5
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