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Mountain ranges / Julian Alps / Veliki Oltar / Ruski križ - Veliki Oltar (on NW ridge)

Ruski križ - Veliki Oltar (on NW ridge)

Starting point: Ruski križ (1036 m)
Starting point Lat/Lon: 46.4444°N 13.7746°E 
Path name: on NW ridge
Time of walking: 6 h
Difficulty: rock climbing ascent
Difficulty of skiing: no data
Altitude difference: 1585 m
Altitude difference (by path): 1820 m
Map: TNP 1:50.000
Author: JusAvgustin
Views: 20,946
Trip rating: 4 votes
Number of pictures: 11
Access to starting point:
First we drive to Kranjska Gora, then continue driving towards Vršič Pass. Just before the 3rd hairpin turn of the Ruska or Vršiška road, we will notice Ruski križ on the right side and a small parking lot on the left, where we park. Since the parking lot is relatively small and fills up quickly, we can also park a bit higher at the larger parking lot just above the 4th hairpin turn (in this case we need to descend a bit to our starting point at Ruski križ).
We can also reach the starting point from the Primorska side, namely via Vršič Pass.
Path description:
Just before the 3rd hairpin turn of the Ruska road, we will notice by the road the mountain signs for Koča v Krnici, which direct us slightly left onto a wide cart track that immediately begins to descend moderately. After a few minutes of descent through the forest, the path levels out and leads us to the bed of Suha Pišnica. Shortly after crossing the mentioned stream, the path turns slightly left and takes us out of the forest onto the expansive grassy slopes of the V Klinu high pasture, where we notice an isolated hut on the right and a small memorial park Mali Tamar on the left. The path ahead levels out completely, then joins a forest road coming from the former hotel Erika or the bridge over Velika Pišnica. Here we continue right and follow the fairly steep forest road all the way to Koča v Krnici, which we reach after about 20 minutes of further walking.
From the hut we head towards Špik to the left. After just a few minutes we reach a torrent gully along which we then ascend. The marked path to Špik, after about an hour of walking from Koča v Krnici, crosses the mentioned gully and then ascends along its left side. When the marked path to Špik moves away from the gully, we will notice a less trodden path that ascends moderately upwards along the foot of scree slopes next to the gully. The path ascending along the gully is full of scree and due to frequent thunderstorms full of unstable rocks. The path, somewhat less visible in places, leads us further along a somewhat narrower gully that splits into two parts higher up. We continue along and in the right gully, which a bit higher brings us to extensive scree fields below the north face of Škrlatica. Initially still quite visible, the path crosses these scree fields slightly to the left, mostly along their foot (traversing ascent to the north). Further on, soon on a small rise below an indistinct summit we notice the bivouac in Velika Dnina. If there is fog and we don't know the path, it will be hard to find it. To here it is about three hours of walking. Further we can climb to the bivouac, which is slightly off the path but an ideal spot for a short or longer rest. If we decide to bypass the bivouac, we continue along the barely visible path ascending ever narrower scree upwards. The strenuous scree then ends and the ascent continues up a rocky gully that soon brings us to the first belay stance under an overhang. Follows the key section (good II.) a few meters upwards over a small overhang to the second belay under the extremely shattered connecting ridge between Velika Martuljška Ponca and Veliki Oltar. Up the shattered gully we need to climb about 10 m to the third belay in the notch of Kačji jezik. The hard part is behind us, now follows the nicest part of the tour. Approximately 200 m of poetry in stone (I-II.), as I like to call it, namely the NW ridge of Veliki Oltar is one big enjoyment. Such compact rock is also only in Mali Oltar. After more than 200 m of climbing over slabs and chimneys we approach the last wall. We can climb straight up the wall to the summit, or make an easier bypass on the left side to a chimney that brings us to the shattered summit slope of Veliki Oltar. To the top is just a short walk. We descend the same path, or descend to Jezerca.
It probably won't hurt to warn that the ascent to Veliki Oltar is a climbing route of grade II requiring knowledge of safe use of complete mountaineering equipment and mountaineering skills. The route is well equipped. Safe ascent and plenty of enjoyment on the NW ridge of Veliki Oltar!
On the way: Koča v Krnici (1113m), Bivak v Veliki Dnini (2180m), Velika Martuljška Ponca (2602m), Mala Martuljška Ponca (2501m)
Trip can be extended to: Visoki Rokav , Škrlatica
Pictures:
Ruski križ - Veliki Oltar1
Ruski križ - Veliki Oltar2
Ruski križ - Veliki Oltar3
Ruski križ - Veliki Oltar4
Ruski križ - Veliki Oltar5
Ruski križ - Veliki Oltar6
Ruski križ - Veliki Oltar7
Ruski križ - Veliki Oltar8
Ruski križ - Veliki Oltar9
Ruski križ - Veliki Oltar10
Ruski križ - Veliki Oltar11
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