Ukanc - Pršivec (Ferata Ožarjeni kamen)

Access to starting point:
From highway Ljubljana - Jesenice we go to the exit Lesce and we follow the road towards Bled, Bohinjska Bistrica, Ribčev Laz and Ukanc. On the west side of the lake, we leave the road towards Koča pri Savici and we turn right towards Ukanc. We follow this road to a parking lot near the abandoned hotel Zlatorog where we park. Parking is possible also on some of the other parking lots on the west side of the lake. Parking lots are payable.

Path description:
The described path is currently CLOSED! Data from 7/7/2021.

From the parking lot, we continue on the main road to the first crossroad where we go on a foot path towards the lake. At the lake, we continue towards the north on the path which leads around the lake. On the northwestern edge of the lake where there is a crossing, we continue right and short time we still walk on the path which leads around the lake and then signpost for climbing area Uket points us left on a narrow footpath.

We go on the mentioned footpath which at first few times ascends in zig-zags. Here is on the path also quite a few fallen trees. We quickly come to a crossing where a sign on the rock points us to the right towards the climbing area, left leads the path towards Savica.

The path further is marked with red dots and all the time runs towards the east. The path is relatively poorly beaten and is mostly slightly ascending, and on some spots also descends a little. Here through the forest occasionally nice view opens up towards Lake Bohinj and towards Vogel. When we come to climbing area we will at first on rock notice a caption »Uket«, here for a short time, we still continue on a footpath which crosses slopes towards the east and then on the left we notice steel cables (46.28826°N / 13.83597°E).

In front of the entry into the climbing path, we must equip ourselves with a self-belay set and a helmet. It is also highly recommended to use climbing gloves. In wet climbing on a secured path isn't recommended.

The secured path is already from the very beginning quite demanding and at first ascends diagonally by a wall upwards. Soon the path turns to the left and we are already in front of first demanding almost vertical ascent. The path is then all the time ascending on a monolithic outside corner, and often on the path, there is also some grass and trees or bushes. The path otherwise all the time offers breathtaking views of Lake Bohinj. The path which is all the time very exposed then few more times almost vertically ascends, on the path, there are also some shorter demanding crossings. Such a path then runs all the way to the end of the secured path where there is also a marked crossing.

Right downwards leads the path which is marked with the caption »bivak« and is secured with a rope. The mentioned path leads towards a gully, which is surrounded with overhung walls and so offers a shelter.

At the crossing, we continue straight upwards and the path soon turns to the left and then crosses slopes towards the west. The path which here runs on mostly with a forest covered slopes then also ascends a little. The slope becomes more grassy and the path soon turns slightly to the right. Follows only the last shorter ascent to the top where there is an inscription box.

From the inscription box to the left steeply downwards we can quickly descent into the valley. Or we can decide to continue also towards the second part of the secured path. In this case, at the inscription box we continue on the ridge. Further footpath mostly isn't visible and at orientation we get help from relatively rare and small red arrows and dots. Here we are ascending on a mostly grassy ridge, that runs right from a deep gully. On some spots, we also ascend a little steeper and some very easy climbing is needed (to 1st grade).

A little higher, the path brings us into the forest, and the gully on our left then soon ends. We still continue in the same direction and we few times ascend a little steeper. Further, we mostly in ascent cross slopes to the right and when we come on a smaller clearing from where a view opens up towards Lake Bohinj we will notice steel cables where there is the beginning of the second part of the secured path (46.29189°N / 13.83411°E).

After a short crossing, we continue left and we are then for some time steeply ascending by the steel cable. The secured path also mostly isn't beaten and in parts, it is also slightly overgrown. From the path otherwise again beautiful views opening up towards Lake Bohinj. Later, the path turns to the right and on a grassy ledge it brings us to the outside corner. We go left and we steeply ascend on an outside corner upwards. After that, the path turns slightly to the left and it becomes even a little more demanding. We continue left on a vertical plate, which brings us below an overhang. Here we at first diagonally ascend by the overhang upwards and then follows also a short very difficult ascent over the overhang (difficulty D/E). Above the overhang, a short crossing to the right follows and then we again steeply ascend by the steel cable upwards. Because of a long pitch a little more caution is needed. A short time we are still ascending by the steel cable upwards and then the path turns to the right and then follows a crossing of exposed slopes.

After that, the path becomes less demanding and then for quite some time in ascent crosses slopes to the right. Here we most of the time still get help from a steel cable. We still continue in the same direction and the path then leads us past a bigger rock shelter, which in case of bad weather we can also use as a shelter. When the steel cables end we come into the forest where the slope is a little less steep. The footpath here isn't visible and at orientation we get help only from some cutted branches. In the forest otherwise for a short time, we still cross a slope to the right, and then we continue left and we quickly reach a wide marked path which leads from Vogar towards Pršivec (46.29439°N / 13.83699°E).

In case if we decide also for the ascent towards the summit Pršivec, we then continue left. If we want to descend into a valley we continue right towards Vogar. An option for a descent there is also through mountain pasture Planina Viševnik and then past the lake Črno jezero and through Komarča into a valley. All descents towards the starting point are relatively long. Short descent is only in case if we have organized transport from Planina Vogar.

We continue left and we at first walk on a wide path towards the west. When the path becomes a little narrower the path leads us past marked vantage point from which a very nice view opens up towards Lake Bohinj. The path then soon starts a little steeper ascending on a slope where we will by the path notice a lot of fallen trees. Such a path then brings us to a crossing where the path branches off to the right towards Planina Viševnik.

We continue left and for some time we are still ascending through a little thinner forest. A little higher, the path turns to the left and it brings us on the ridge from where breathtaking views open up on surrounding mountains. We continue right and for some time we are still ascending relatively steeply on a panoramic ridge. In the last part, the ascent becomes a little less steep and past rare trees we soon reach the panoramic peak on which there is an inscription box and a bigger cairn.

We descend on the other side towards Planina Viševnik and from there towards the lake Črno jezero and via Komarča into a valley.

The described path has a difficulty level D/E and it is appropriate only for experienced mountaineers with enough strength in arms. Some additional problems can cause also a steel cable, which is a little thinner as it is usually on so demanding paths. Steel cables are attached on bolts and not on normal pitons as we see on most other secured paths. Because of this steel cable is often just by the wall and makes clipping of self-belay set a little more difficult.

The climbing part of the path runs on the south slopes, which are in the summer months very hot. On the path, there are possible also ticks and snakes.

On the way: Bohinjsko jezero (525m), Ožarjeni kamen (960m)