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Mountain ranges / Julian Alps / Pršivec / Ukanc - Pršivec (Ferata Ožarjeni kamen)

Ukanc - Pršivec (Ferata Ožarjeni kamen)

Starting point: Ukanc (531 m)
Starting point Lat/Lon: 46.27926°N 13.82942°E 
Destination: Pršivec (1761 m)
Path name: Ferata Ožarjeni kamen
Time of walking: 5 h
Difficulty: extremely difficult marked way
Ferrata: D/E
Difficulty of skiing: no data
Altitude difference: 1230 m
Altitude difference (by path): 1250 m
Map: TNP 1:50.000
Views: 1,006
Trip rating: 3 votes
Number of pictures: 161
Access to starting point:
From highway Ljubljana - Jesenice we go on exit Lesce and we follow the road towards Bled, Bohinjska Bistrica, Ribčev Laz and Ukanc. On the west side of the lake we leave the road towards Koča pri Savici and we turn right towards Ukanc. We follow this road to a parking lot near the abandoned hotel Zlatorog where we park. Parking is possible also on some of other parking lots on the west side of the lake. Parking lots are payable.
Path description:
From the parking lot we continue on the main road to first crossroad where we go on foot path towards the lake. At the lake we continue towards north on path, which leads around the lake. On northwestern edge of the lake where there is a crossing we continue right and short time we still walk on path, which leads around the lake and after that signpost for climbing area Uket points us left on a narrow footpath.
We go on the mentioned footpath, which at first few times ascends in zig zags. Here is on the path also quite a few fallen trees. We quickly come to a crossing where a sign on the rock points us to the right towards climbing area, left leads path towards Savica.
Further the path is marked with red dots and all the time runs towards the east. Path is relatively poorly beaten and is mostly slightly ascending, and on some spots also descends a little. Here through the forest occasionally nice view opens up towards Lake Bohinj and towards Vogel. When we come to climbing area we will at first on a rock notice a caption »Uket«, here for a short time we still continue on a footpath, which crosses slopes towards the east after that on the left we notice steel cables (46.28826°N / 13.83597°E).
In front of the entry in climbing path we must equip ourselves with self belay set and a helmet. It is also highly recommended to use climbing gloves. In wet climbing on a secured path isn't recommended.
Secured path is already from the very beginning quite demanding and at first ascends diagonally by a wall upwards. Soon path turns to the left and we are already in front of first demanding almost vertical ascent. Path is then all the time ascending on monolithic outside corner, and often on the path there is also some grass and trees or bushes. Path otherwise all the time offers breathtaking views on Lake Bohinj. Path, which is all the time very exposed then few more times almost vertically ascends, on the path there is also some shorter demanding crossings. Such path then runs all the way to the end of secured path where there is also a marked crossing.
Right downwards leads path, which is marked with caption »bivak« and is secured with a rope. Mentioned path leads towards a gully, which is surrounded with overhung walls and so offers a shelter.
At the crossing we continue straight upwards and path soon turns to the left and then crosses slopes towards west. Path, which here runs on mostly with a forest covered slopes then also ascends a little. Slope becomes more grassy and path soon turns slightly to the right. Follows only last shorter ascent to the top where there is an inscription box.
From the inscription box left steeply downwards there is possible to fast descend into a valley. Or we can decide to continue also towards the second part of the secured path. In this case at the inscription box we continue on the ridge. Further footpath mostly isn't visible, and at orientation we get help from relatively rare and small red arrows and dots. Here we are ascending on a mostly grassy ridge, that runs right from a deep gully. On some spots we also ascend a little steeper and some very easy climbing is needed (to 1st grade).
A little higher the path brings us in the forest, and the gully on our left then soon ends. We still continue in the same direction and we few times ascend a little steeper. Further we mostly in ascent cross slopes to the right and when we come on a smaller clearing from where a view opens up towards Lake Bohinj we will notice steel cables where there is the beginning of the second part of the secured path (46.29189°N / 13.83411°E).
After a short crossing we continue left and then we are for some time steeply ascending by the steel cable. The secured path also mostly isn't beaten and in parts it is also slightly overgrown. From the path otherwise again beautiful views opening up towards Lake Bohinj. Later path turns to the right and on a grassy ledge it brings us to outside corner. We go left and we steeply ascend on outside corner upwards. After that path turns slightly to the left and it becomes even a little more demanding. We continue left on a vertical plate, which brings us below an overhang. Here we at first diagonally ascend by the overhang upwards, and then follows also a short very difficult ascent over the overhang (difficulty D/E). Above the overhang a short crossing to the right follows and then we again steeply ascend by the steel cable upwards. Because of a long pitch a little more caution is needed. Short time we are still ascending by the steel cable upwards, after that path turns to the right and then follows a crossing of exposed slopes.
After that path becomes less demanding and then for a quite some time it in an ascent crosses slopes to the right. Here we most of the time still get help from a steel cable. We still continue in the same direction and path then leads us past a bigger rock shelter, which in case of bad weather we can also use as a shelter. When the steel cables end we come in the forest where the slope is a little less steep. Footpath here isn't visible, and at orientation we get help only from some cutted branches. In the forest otherwise for a short time we still cross a slope to the right, and then we continue left and we quickly reach wide marked path, which leads from Vogar towards Pršivec (46.29439°N / 13.83699°E).
In case if we decide also for an ascent towards the summit of Pršivec, we continue left. If we want to descend into a valley we continue right towards Vogar. An option for descent there is also through mountain pasture Planina Viševnik and then past the lake Črno jezero and through Komarča into a valley. All descents towards the starting point are relatively long. Short descent is only in case if we have organized transport from Planina Vogar.
We continue left and we at first walk on the wide path towards west. When the path becomes a little narrower the path leads us past marked vantage point from which a very nice view opens up towards Lake Bohinj. The path then soon starts a little steeper ascending on a slope where we will by the path notice a lot of fallen trees. Such path then brings us to a crossing where the path branches off to the right towards Planina Viševnik.
We continue left and for some time we are still ascending through a little thinner forest. A little higher path turns to the left and it brings us on the ridge from where breathtaking views open up on surrounding mountains. We continue right and for some time we are still ascending relatively steeply on a panoramic ridge. In the last part the ascent becomes a little less steep and past rare trees we soon reach panoramic peak on which there is an inscription box and a bigger cairn.
We descend on the other side towards Planina Viševnik and from there towards the lake Črno jezero and through Komarča into a valley.
Described path has a difficulty level D/E and it is appropriate only for experienced mountaineers with enough strength in arms. Some additional problems can cause also a steel cable, which is a little thinner as it is usually on so demanding paths. Steel cables are attached on bolts and not on a normal pitons as we see on most other secured paths. Because of this steel cable is often just by the wall and makes clipping of self belay set a little more difficult.
Climbing part of the path runs on south slopes which are in the summer months very hot. On the path there are possible also ticks and snakes.
On the way: Bohinjsko jezero (525m), Ožarjeni kamen (960m)
Pictures:
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