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Mountain ranges / Julian Alps / Triglav / Aljažev dom v Vratih - Triglav (via Plemenice)

Aljažev dom v Vratih - Triglav (via Plemenice)

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Starting point: Aljažev dom v Vratih (987 m)
Latitude/Longitude: 46,41280°N 13,84660°E
Destination: Triglav (2864 m)
Route name: via Plemenice
Walking time: 6 h 30 min
Difficulty: very difficult marked way
Via ferrata: B/C
Elevation gain: 1877 m
Elevation difference along the route: 1900 m
Map: Triglav 1:25.000
Recommended equipment (summer): helmet, self belay set
Recommended equipment (winter): helmet, self belay set, ice axe, crampons
Views: 233.281
 14 people like this post
Number of photos: 73
Number of comments: 217
Access to starting point:
We drive to Mojstrana, then follow the signs for Vrata Valley. We continue on the toll road, which is closed to public traffic in winter, following it to the large parking lot located a few minutes before Aljažev dom v Vratih.
Route description:
From the parking lot we continue along the gravel road closed to public traffic, passing Šlajmerjev dom and quickly reaching Aljažev dom v Vratih.
We bypass Aljažev dom on the right and continue straight on the trail towards Triglav, Sovatna, Luknja... (right Škrlatica, bivak na Rušju...). We continue on the rougher gravel road past the winter shelter to the marked junction at the famous peg (monument to fallen partisan mountaineers).
We go straight again (left Tominškova pot), the easy trail leading with fine views of Triglav and the Triglav North Face. After a few minutes we enter a beech forest where the path over Sovatna branches right; we go straight towards Luknja and Triglav - path via Prag. A short climb on the track follows, then markers lead left to the path approaching the bed of Triglavska Bistrica. Here the path passes a memorial to mountain victims and soon reaches the next marked junction.
Left across the stream continues the path via Prag; we go straight on the path which gradually steepens more noticeably. The path to Luknja ascends moderately for a while, then becomes steeper and more panoramic higher up. Higher still, it leads through scrub and sparse woods where a pathlet branches right to a nearby bivouac; we continue on the broader trail emerging from the woods shortly. The path steepens further, leading gradually to screes below Luknja. The scree path is slippery; at the wall base fixed ropes help (easy dry, useful mainly on descent). We climb steeply beside the wall briefly, then the path veers right to a junction at Luknja with fine views to peaks above Zadnjica.
The path now gets very difficult, starting with near-vertical ascent on fixed rope. After the initial wall it eases slightly but difficulties persist. From here few protections and occasionally trail above deep drop. High slip risk when wet! Difficulties ease gradually; path turns left to a ridge with eastward views. We follow the panoramic ridge where the path soon gets demanding again. Using fixed rope and pegs we make steep ascents several times, then a short steep descent. Left opens view to famous Sfinga (steepest Triglav pillar).
Further the path eases, leading over rocky terrain. Trail less visible here, passing left of Glava v Zaplanji and Triglavska vojašnica Viktorja Emanuela III. (formerly wrongly called Morbegna) visible ahead. Even in summer possible snow patches here but not steep, no ice axe needed usually.
The path reaches junction on Western Triglav Plateau. Go left up towards Triglav (right Dolič, sharp right Triglavska vojašnica Viktorja Emanuela III.) over scree to entry of next climbing section. Much easier than Plemenice section, no major issues (just crowds). Path ascends diagonally with numerous protections to below Triglavska or Bovška škrbina. Climb to the notch to junction. Go left up (straight down Planika) on steep but well protected path. After several ascents steepness eases; few minutes up summit slopes to top of Triglav.
Parking lot - Aljažev dom 0:05, Aljažev dom - Bistrica spring 0:55, Bistrica spring - Luknja 1:35, Luknja - Plemenice 2:00, Plemenice - Zaplanja junction 0:45, Zaplanja junction - Triglav 1:10.
route map - Triglav
Along the route: Aljažev dom v Vratih (1001m), Spomenik padlim partizanom gornikom (1020m), V Plazičih (1040m), Izvir Bistrice (1160m), Luknja (1766m), Plemenice (2372m), Zaplanja (2428m), Triglavska škrbina (2655m)
We recommend: trips from the same starting point, similar trips, panorama, summit register
Photos:
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Discussion about the trip Aljažev dom v Vratih - Triglav (via Plemenice)
Show older messages
Domch6. 11. 2016
the snow will take care of it, just a matter of time, maybe this year, if not next year.
redbull6. 11. 2016
nasmeh, harder below zero
orchidlily2. 09. 2017
The hike that my spouse and I took last year differs slightly from the one described here. Namely, we didn't start from Vrata, but from Kriških podi via B. Gamsovca to Luknja and onward.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hs01f_au4jE&t=454s
Zzzmaaja27. 06. 2018
Hello! I already went along the Bamberg path last summer (access from Zadnjica), this weekend we would like to set off from Vrata and then continue along the mentioned path.. has anyone walked it recently? What are the conditions like? Best regards
darinka427. 06. 2018
On 7.6. I walked there. There was some snow patches. They have probably melted by now. But there is snow on the western Triglav plateau. If it's soft, no problem. Triglavska škrbina is dry.
primozg25. 08. 2018
This week on this beautiful path. Some pegs on the fixed cables pulled out but it goes without problems.

Pictures and path description at https://gorskimoz.wordpress.com/2018/08/25/triglav-cez-plemenice/
spero17. 09. 2018
12.09.2018 second time on this route, 3 hours and 50 min to Triglav easily. No crowds and you fly like a chamois nasmeh
zbil10. 10. 2018
Hello!
How is the passability now that it has already snowed? Is the path still safe?
Please for a response from someone who has walked the path in the last week!
Thanks
Zgembo16. 10. 2018
I was there on 13.10.2018, the path is nicely passable, there was only a sample of snow and you could nicely bypass it, a couple of cables are loosened and some peg sticks out, but it's normally passable. Nice tour.
Here are some shots nasmeh
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s2zPb7M3T9Q
zbil17. 10. 2018
OK, thanks for the reply and congratulations on the nice little video.
vladika16. 08. 2019
Hello. I read and notice that the trail is very exposed and difficult. I have already been to Skrlatica, Mangart via the Slovenian route, up Tomiskova and down via Prag. I haven't had problems anywhere so far. I plan to return via Dolič and Luknja. I don't plan to return via Prag because the trail dragged on forever. I'd rather go down Tomiskova.
For the Vrata-Tomiskova-Triglav-Prag-Vrata route I took 10 hours. Is this trail longer? Is the Plemenice trail really that much harder? Tomorrow I'm heading out on this trail and will appreciate any response.
Safe steps, Vlado
darinka416. 08. 2019
The initial section and the gully towards the top of Plemenice are harder, you need some strength there. Otherwise nothing more difficult.
bbugari116. 08. 2019
Vladika, it is longer by about 1 hour for ascent and about 1.5 hours for descent because you gain elevation before Luknja (recommend quick descent via prag). Plemenice are as demanding as the Slovenian route on Mangart, the initial part even more. But nothing serious... mežikanje
vladika18. 08. 2019
@darinka4 and @bbugari1 thanks for the tips, you were right. It was insanely beautiful. Up through Plemenice and down Tominškova dol.
Started around 3 a.m., so at Luknja I waited a bit for dawn, then into the wall. The path is very demanding and quite long to Triglav summit. Weather at top sunny, fantastic. Could see Grossglockner, our peaks and outlines of our sea.
Really nice. Return past Kredarica and down Tominškova dol. Down Tominškova dol is even harder than up. Both paths well secured, here and there a peg pulled out, but nowhere at critical spots.
The path is really very nice and very demanding, so set out on it if you're fairly fit and have no fear of heights, and don't forget hat, gloves, helmet and good mood.
This my 10th ascent of Očak will stay long in my memory.
Safe steps, Vlado.
cajer18. 09. 2019
Hello, I'm wondering if the path through Plemenice is mostly in shade during the morning or if the sun hits it quickly?
bbugari118. 09. 2019
Shade.
cajer18. 09. 2019
In autumn weather and temperatures, say now, do you recommend ascent on this path based on experience?
bbugari118. 09. 2019
In today's conditions: no snow, but wet. In such conditions only experienced mountaineers with proper gear (helmet, good boots, and also via ferrata set), and excellent fitness (strength in arms and legs)...
Tomorrow conditions are already different...
epvlonhistria28. 10. 2019
I have already hiked it twice uphill, yesterday also in the opposite direction. For the descent, I experienced it differently, saw it with somewhat different eyes and only then truly enjoyed its exposure and steepness. Regarding self-belaying on this route, personally, I even advise against using SVK, because if someone can't manage it without self-belaying, it's better not to tackle it at all. Because there are very exposed sections where there is no possibility to clip in anywhere. However, 100% concentration and caution are required, because any possible mistake ends down on the scree. We three hiked yesterday from the summit to Aljaž quite slowly, covering it in six hours. And in doing so, we especially enjoyed the beautiful views of all Slovenian peaks, from Montaž all the way to the Kamnik Alps. We also spotted our local Učka somewhere in the south. Best regards from three Istrians, from Poreč.
bbugari128. 10. 2019
Personally, I don't use SVK on Slovenian mountains, but this thesis that "if someone can't manage it without self-belaying, it's better not to tackle it at all" doesn't hold, because it means SVK is never needed. I will never recommend to other hikers on the forum to follow such a thesis.
Best regards from one Istrian.
dprapr28. 10. 2019
Bojan, if you've already taken part of the sentence out of context, add the next sentence in the record...
Enka28. 10. 2019
I don't know if you interpreted this correctly, bbugari1. I understood that on this specific route, besides the secured sections, there are also such that will cause severe problems to someone who can't manage past secured parts without clipping in. So this specific route might not be for me, but I can easily go to Mala Mojstrovka, where you can clip in on all problematic sections and there are no difficult spots that aren't secured.
bbugari128. 10. 2019
I correctly interpreted the thesis that "regarding self-belaying" on Plemenice "advises against using SVK if someone can't manage without self-belaying". Logically (argumentum a contrario), this means that if someone can manage without self-belaying - is SVK then a necessary piece of equipment?!?!? So, there's no need to add anything to the quoted part of the sentence...
LP
epvlonhistria28. 10. 2019
Hi my fellow Istrian. All OK. But now you're exaggerating a bit.
Barentoter28. 10. 2019
@epvlonhistria, today you registered on hribi.net and you're already personally advising against SVK on a very demanding mountain route to Triglav. Really bravo!!!
Personally, you can climb in opanke because of me, if you can manage it nasmeh
epvlonhistria28. 10. 2019
And you can reach the summit by helicopter because of me.
Domch28. 10. 2019
Self-belaying on this route can be used on three very well protected sections in between, but there are quite a few exposed parts that are not protected. We must not forget, however, the fact that the descent is usually done to Mali Triglav and Kredarica, where it is very well equipped for SMV use, and if you descend further via Tominškova, it can also be useful there, and for descent via Prag, Medvedova skala if needed. Everyone decides for themselves whether to use it, but it is recommended in all descriptions and I use it myself, especially when I do ascents alone, because then the view of the route becomes different than in a group.
Tal25. 04. 2020
I'm interested in how the difficulty of the path compares to Tominšek's. Last year I went to Triglav via Tominšek and down through the threshold without any problems.
Lunatixz26. 04. 2020
The path is significantly harder and much more exposed, and at the same time there are some sections that are not secured.

I suggest you watch some video on Youtube and then decide for yourself if you need to gain more experience - for example: https://youtu.be/lWLjl_kszEA

Best regards and good luck, M.
fpetel126. 04. 2020
Personally, I didn't find the path that difficult. I've gone through Plemenice several times already. The path is mainly more strenuous than Tominškova and through Prag because it's at least an hour longer. Technically difficult mainly right above Luknja, where it's well protected and self-belaying is recommended. The continuation in some places towards Morbegna is not as well protected as we're used to on other approaches, but there's only one short unprotected and very exposed section that doesn't pose any special danger. Compared to the path to Jalovec from Tamar (both approaches), this path is better protected.
dprapr26. 04. 2020
I fully agree with the last comment, except for the sentence "The path is mainly more strenuous than Tominškova and through Prag because it's at least an hour longer."
I've always reached Triglav faster and with less effort via this path (4 to 5 hours). Maybe because more of the path is in the shade.
gj26. 04. 2020
Drapar, I agree, and you even gain fewer meters of elevation than on Tominškova.
garmont26. 04. 2020
How fewer elevations, when it's the same starting point for both paths? zmedenzavijanje z očmi
bbugari126. 04. 2020
Only the secured part of the path? cool
darinka426. 04. 2020
As already said. The initial part is demanding. And the chimney, which is quite higher up. There one cable is torn off, but it doesn't present a problem. Otherwise nothing more difficult.
redbull26. 04. 2020
As Drago said. The timetable for Prag and Tominskova is considerably shorter than for Plemenice, but only on paper. In reality, and when you're on it, you only see that through Plemenice it's somehow similar, especially if you have a similar pace on both.
Good luck
Turbolazec28. 06. 2020
Is winter gear still needed on this path?
redbull29. 06. 2020
Plemenice dry, then further to Bovška škrbina there is still snow. Crampons necessary if the snow is too hard in the morning, ice axe mandatory!
artur11. 08. 2020
Hiked yesterday.
Up through Luknja and Plemenice and down via Tominškova past Dom Valentina Staniča.
Can only praise the path through Plemenice, as it's well maintained, unlike Tominškova, where several sections need repair.
The rest about conditions is already in other posts.
Recommend the Locus Map app, which anyone can install for free on their smartphone.
Cheers
Snecer13. 08. 2020
The path is well maintained, only one bolt for the cable has come loose in one section (in the last part). You don't need an app, because this path is exemplarily marked.
Hribovc916. 09. 2020
The most beautiful and at the same time the most demanding secured path to Triglav. There is less protection than usual but because of that it is more pristine which gives it a special charm. For experienced hikers a very nice experience. The path after renovation is in very good condition. Descent via Prag.
MinasTirith18. 07. 2021 15:07:34
Yesterday 17.7.2021 I set off along the mentioned path to Triglav.
From the valley at Aljažev dom in Vrata I started at 4:00 AM.
I reached Luknja around 6:00, no issues except scree towards the end which takes more energy.
Then I headed into the rocks where the climbing section begins. I must add that if you already have some climbing experience (previous feratas) and are physically fit (some sports activity in free time), the path is not demanding. I agree with comments and descriptions that the path is poorly secured in places and requires 100% caution throughout the climbing.

The weather was cloudy, windy (in open sections) and occasional raindrops. All the time it was visible that dark clouds were gathering higher up promising worsening conditions.

I continued the path towards Triglav knowing cold wet weather awaited me.

When I reached 2400m on open terrain, conditions worsened drastically (I didn't expect such changes). Wind gusts tossed me around literally (my weight with gear approx. 85kg). Visibility was so poor I could only see snow, some rocks ahead, but NO markers. I navigated using navigation loaded on my Garmin watch (navigation works excellently).
Since it was my first time on this path and I didn't know the exact direction, I decided to turn back and return the same way to the valley (turned back just before the junction with Kugyjerjeva pot).
Although watch navigation led me correctly, I didn't want to continue to Triglav as I didn't trust walking on snow (don't know terrain and frankly feared snow collapse into a hole).

Descent on climbing section despite rain and wet rocks didn't seem demanding or dangerous (shoes didn't slip). Caution needed!

Summarizing my findings:
- climbing section not demanding (if you have knowledge and experience),
- higher sections from 2300m onwards poorly marked,
- in poor weather not recommended for inexperienced climbers,
- so far definitely most interesting climbing path to Triglav summit,
- descent also interesting and fully feasible.

Lesson learned yesterday:
- No bad weather/conditions exist, only poor preparation of climbers/hikers.

Yesterday the mountain won the battle, but not the war big smile

Best regards.
Turbolazec20. 07. 2021 13:23:37
Hi! Are crampons needed for the path?
jbs20. 07. 2021 18:20:05
No.
G3424. 04. 2023 17:59:21
Is this path suitable for beginners? We've already done via ferrata Mojstrana. We plan to go to via ferrata Dobršnik and Hvadnik. Are we then prepared enough to go to Triglav via this path?
Janez Seliškar25. 04. 2023 07:16:13
No
potpodnoge25. 04. 2023 15:00:53
Minas, I only read your post today, but congratulations on the smart decision. The mountain will wait, accidents never! Safe travels on our beautiful mountains.
G3429. 04. 2023 16:23:55
Thanks Janez Seliškar.
Snecer2. 05. 2023 11:26:19
If you have already visited via ferratas, then the path through Plemenice is suitable.

Most do not use a safety kit. Good physical fitness is required (especially that).

Of course it all depends on the "mountaineer", what stuff he is made of. Even beginners vary greatly.
ŠpRo292. 05. 2023 21:36:03
Walked this path some time ago, need to repeat it. Beautiful, airy and for a well physically prepared mountaineer. Regarding the self-belay kit, now it goes everywhere with me. Even if you are confident in yourself, you never know when a stone falls, when you slip, when you feel bad... There is some safety, that's my personal opinion. Everyone decides for themselves. Good luck, you will enjoy both the path and the views.
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