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Mountain ranges / Karawanks / Begunjščica / Ljubelj - Begunjščica (via Frelihov žleb)

Ljubelj - Begunjščica (via Frelihov žleb)

Starting point: Ljubelj (1058 m)
Starting point Lat/Lon: 46.4324°N 14.2602°E 
Path name: via Frelihov žleb
Time of walking: 2 h 30 min
Difficulty: rock climbing ascent
Difficulty of skiing: no data
Altitude difference: 1002 m
Altitude difference (by path): 1002 m
Map: Karavanke - osrednji del 1:50.00
Author: JusAvgustin
Views: 13,378
Trip rating: 4 votes
Number of pictures: 8
Access to starting point:
From highway Ljubljana - Jesenice we go to the exit Ljubelj and follow the road ahead to the border crossing. Only few meters before the border crossing signs for Zelenica point us to the left and after few 10 meters of additional driving the road brings us on a parking lot below the ski center Zelenica.
Path description:
From the parking lot, we go on a footpath in the direction of Zelenica, Vrtača and Stol. Cart track which runs on the left side of the ski track, after approximately 15 minutes of a moderate ascent through the forest brings us to the before mentioned track by which we are then ascending. The path which offers nice views on extensive scree of Begunjščica on the left and to a ridge of Ljubeljščica on the right then in a gentle ascent brings us to the hut Vrtača.
From the mountain hut, we continue straight on a marked path, which slowly turns slightly to the left and after a shorter diagonal ascent brings us into a lane of dwarf pines. Further, the path is for a short time steeply ascending and then brings us on a cart track (transport road), which we follow in a moderate ascent to the mountain hut Dom na Zelenici. While ski track operates it is forbidden to walk on a ski slope. At that time we use the winter path which runs on a transport road.
From the mountain hut on Zelenica we go on the south side towards the northern wall of Begunjščica. It is best to follow the circular path, which from Zelenica runs on Roblekov dom below Begunjščica. At the handy spot, approximately 20 minutes from Dom na Zelenici we turn steep upwards towards the northern wall of Begunjščica. The entrance into a climbing route is in some sort of corner between distinct gully on the right side and rounded outside corner in the wall on the left. The entrance into a climbing route is marked by overhang chimney.
If there is a lot of snow, the climbing is pleasant and effortless, the angle is from 40-65°. Route follows only logical rift in this part of the wall. Route from the gully goes on the northwestern ridge. If snow conditions are good without any bigger problems we reach the peak on the northwestern ridge. And if we have enough we leave the route and on system of slopes and ledges we descend to the mountain hut on Zelenica.
In the case of bad conditions (little snow, unprocessed snow and dry rock) before the entrance chimney, we enter the route on an exposed ledge to the left, which leads right below rounded outside corner on which we climb into the main gully. Gully is interrupted by three jumps. First is the most difficult. On some sort of notch-corner we have to get to a jammed boulder and UNDER the boulder we climb into a continuation of the gully. Above us, we have the second jump, which we get over without any bigger problems. Above that jump problems decreases and route continues on nice gully to a ramp. Just before the route turns into dwarf pines we get to another jump, but this one almost isn't worth mentioning.
Route Frelihov žleb (groove) belongs among alpinist routes, probably there is no need to emphasize, that climbing is easier if there is a lot of snow, but carefully, don't go in the route by a large amount of new snow because the route is one big slide.
I wish you pleasant climbing on a nice route.
Ljubelj - Begunjščica1
Ljubelj - Begunjščica2
Ljubelj - Begunjščica3
Ljubelj - Begunjščica4
Ljubelj - Begunjščica5
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Ljubelj - Begunjščica7
Ljubelj - Begunjščica8
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