Ukanc - Pršivec (Ferata Ožarjeni kamen)

Access to starting point:
From the highway Ljubljana - Jesenice, we go to the exit Lesce and follow the road towards Bled, Bohinjska Bistrica, Ribčev Laz and Ukanc. On the west side of the lake, we leave the road towards Koča pri Savici and turn right towards Ukanc. We follow this road to the parking lot near the abandoned hotel Zlatorog where we park. Parking is also possible on one of the other parking lots on the west side of the lake. The parking lots are paid.

Route description:
The described path is currently CLOSED! Data from 7.7.2021.

From the parking lot, we continue on the main road to the first crossroad where we turn onto the footpath towards the lake. At the lake, we continue towards the north on the path which leads around the lake. On the northwestern edge of the lake where there is a junction, we continue right and for a short time we still walk on the path which leads around the lake, then the signpost for climbing area Uket directs us left onto a narrow footpath.

We turn onto the mentioned footpath, which first ascends several times in zigzags. There is also quite a bit of fallen timber on the path. We quickly reach a junction where an inscription on the rock directs us right towards the climbing area, left the path leads towards Savica.

Further on, the path is marked with red dots and runs eastwards all the time. The path is relatively poorly beaten and mostly ascends slightly, but on some places it also descends a little. Here through the forest, a nice view occasionally opens up towards Lake Bohinj and towards Vogel. When we reach the climbing area, we will first notice the inscription »Uket« on the rock; we continue here for a short time on the path which crosses the slopes towards the east, then on the left we will notice steel cables (46.28826°N / 13.83597°E).

Before entering the climbing path, we must equip ourselves with a via ferrata set and helmet. Climbing gloves are also highly recommended. Climbing on the secured path when wet is not recommended.

The secured path is already quite demanding from the very beginning and first ascends diagonally alongside the wall upwards. Soon the path turns left and we are already before the first demanding almost vertical ascent. Then the path continuously ascends the monolithic slab, and often there is also some grass and trees or bushes on the path. The path otherwise always offers wonderful views of Lake Bohinj. The path, which is very exposed all the time, ascends almost vertically a few more times further on, and there are also some shorter demanding traverses on the path. Such a path then continues all the way to the end of the secured path where there is also a marked junction.

Right downwards leads a path marked with the inscription »bivak« and secured with a rope. The mentioned path leads towards a gully surrounded by overhanging walls and thus provides shelter.

At the junction, we continue straight upwards and the path soon turns left and then crosses the slopes towards the west. The path, which here runs on mostly forest-covered slopes, then also ascends somewhat. The slope becomes more grassy and the path soon turns slightly right. Then follows the last shorter ascent to the summit where there is a logbook box.

From the logbook box steeply downwards to the left, a quick descent into the valley is possible. Alternatively, we can decide to continue to the second part of the secured path. In this case, at the logbook box we continue along the ridge. Further on, the footpath is mostly not visible, and for orientation we are helped by relatively rare and small red arrows and dots. Here we ascend a mostly grassy ridge that runs to the right of a deep gully. At some places we also ascend somewhat steeper and some very easy climbing is required (up to 1st grade).

Somewhat higher, the path takes us into the forest, and the gully on our left soon peters out. We continue further in the same direction and ascend somewhat steeper a few times. Further on, we mostly cross the slopes to the right in ascent and when we reach a small clearing from where a view opens up towards Lake Bohinj, we will see the steel cables where the second part of the secured path begins (46.29189°N / 13.83411°E).

After a short traverse, we continue left and then for some time steeply ascend alongside the steel cable. The secured path is also mostly not beaten and is slightly overgrown in places. From the path, beautiful views towards Lake Bohinj open up again. Later the path turns right and takes us along a grassy ledge to the slab. We turn left and steeply ascend the slab upwards. The path then turns slightly left and becomes somewhat more demanding. We continue left on the vertical slab which takes us below an overhang. Here we first ascend diagonally alongside the overhang upwards, then follows a short very demanding ascent over the overhang (difficulty D/E). Above the overhang follows a short traverse to the right, then we steeply ascend alongside the steel cable upwards again. Due to the long reach, somewhat more caution is required. For a short time we still ascend alongside the steel cable upwards, then the path turns right and a traverse of the exposed slope follows.

The path then becomes less demanding and for quite some time crosses the slopes to the right in ascent. Here the steel cable still helps us most of the time. We continue further in the same direction and the path then takes us past a larger rock overhang, which in case of bad weather can also provide shelter. When the steel cables end, we reach the forest where the slope is somewhat less steep. The footpath here is not visible, and for orientation only a few sawn-off branches help us. In the forest we still cross the slope to the right for a short time, then continue left and quickly reach a wide marked path that leads from Vogar towards Pršivec (46.29439°N / 13.83699°E).

If we decide also for the ascent towards the summit of Pršivec, then here we continue left. If we want to descend into the valley, we continue right towards Vogar. A descent option is also via Planina Viševnik and then past Black Lake and via Komarča into the valley. All descents to the starting point are relatively long. A short descent is only possible if we have organized transport from Planina Vogar.

We continue left and initially walk on the wide path towards the west. When the path becomes somewhat narrower, it takes us past a marked viewpoint from which a very nice view opens up towards Lake Bohinj. The path then soon begins to ascend somewhat more steeply on the slope where we will notice many fallen trees along the path. Such a path then brings us to a junction where the path to Planina Viševnik branches off to the right.

We continue left and for some time still ascend through somewhat thinner forest. Somewhat higher, the path turns left and takes us onto the ridge from where wonderful views open up onto the surrounding mountains. We continue right and for some time still ascend relatively steeply on the panoramic ridge. In the last part, the ascent becomes somewhat gentler and past sparse trees we soon reach the panoramic summit on which there is a logbook box and a larger cairn.

We descend on the other side towards Planina Viševnik and from there towards Black Lake and via Komarča into the valley.

The described path is difficulty level D/E and is suitable only for experienced mountaineers with sufficient arm strength. The somewhat thinner steel cable than usual on such demanding paths can also cause some additional difficulties. The steel cables are attached to bolts and not to the usual rope pitons as seen on most other secured paths. The steel cable is thus often right against the wall and somewhat hinders clipping the via ferrata set.

The climbing part of the path runs on the south slopes, which in summer months are very hot. Ticks and snakes may also be present on the path.

Along the route: Bohinjsko jezero (525m), Ožarjeni kamen (960m)

We recommend: trips from the same starting point, similar trips, panorama, summit register