| pg21. 06. 2020 22:58:55 |
On a free Saturday I went with female colleagues and male colleagues to the much-anticipated by the group "(high) altar of Tyrol", one of the most beautifully shaped and most frequently admired and visited elevations around Innsbruck. Serles is an indispensable part of the Innsbruck vista, the ascent to it is not too demanding, from Marie Waldrast also relatively short.
It's worth pointing out right away the problematic nature of the Austrian presentation of path difficulties: both Serles and Lämpermahdspitze are for example marked with a black sign (demanding/very demanding), but there is a diametrical difference between the ascents: the approach to Serles is at most partially demanding with short secured sections, the otherwise short ascent to Lämpermahdspitze is however quite seriously unsecured ridge traverse with airy climbing spots within I.
From the high-lying pilgrimage station and monastery Maria Waldrast we were quickly at the Serlesjöchl pass below the summit structure of Serles, i.e. at the junction of paths from Marie Waldrast and Kampl in the Stubai valley. Path without peculiarities, but the conditions were unpleasant, because despite promising forecasts the low cloud cover just wouldn't dissipate, due to the cold it might even start snowing heavily. The final part of the ascent to Serles is relatively undemanding - first we ascend with the aid of protections (ladders, cables), higher the path runs in zigzags on the scree slope. Just before the summit it's necessary to overcome a short step (partly demanding), to the spacious summit with a large cross there follows just a walk along the wide ridge. Unfortunately we were largely deprived of views, but at moments when the sky slightly cleared, one could sense why Serles is considered one of the most beautiful viewpoints in the Eastern Alps. Otherwise there is some new snow on the path, but it doesn't cause problems.
Relatively early we were back at Serlesjöchl and although it was lightly snowing, it indicated weather improvement. Only the day before the ascent I spotted an enticing access to a lesser-known peak near Serles, which should be less than an hour from the pass - but descriptions pointed to the exposure of the ridge and a demanding chimney supposedly rated II+ (let me say right away there's no sign of that). Together we climbed over remnants of snow and a short rock step (I) to the grassy forepeak before the start of the ridge. There the group slowly went towards the valley, I tackled the north ridge which initially looked quite boldly jagged.
The ridge traverse to Lämpermahdspitze proved demanding and locally quite exposed, but due to the elegantly routed path not overly difficult. The biggest problem is the crumbly terrain leading over precipitous abysses. On the path there are several I degree climbing spots on the ridge edges and summit structure, higher up I can't rate anything. The famous chimney is actually just a narrow passage (walking), quite unnecessarily there's also the only protection on the path there. The path is otherwise excellently marked and in fine weather offers exceptional ridge views. At the summit the sky cleared and the effort was rewarded with magnificent panorama in all directions. After descent from the ridge I shortened the path to the valley with scree skiing, the views becoming ever more beautiful.
Serles, which among the "7 peaks of Stubai" is undoubtedly the most visited and desired - how could it not be, as it has an almost mythical role in the development of alpinism in Innsbruck, the first known ascent to it dating back to 1579 - is a tour suitable for anyone at least somewhat familiar with high mountains. Despite lagging only slightly in height behind, say, Triglav and Škrlatica, the ascent to it is substantially less grandiose or demanding act. The north ridge of Lämpermahdspitze is on the other hand a serious ascent requiring some mountaineering skills and lack of fear of heights - with us such a path would probably be secured or would remain "very demanding unmarked path" - the ridge is otherwise excellently marked. On the path there's one awkward snowfield crossing, but with some caution it goes without major problems, otherwise there's also a more strenuous scree crossing option below it.
Until next time!
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