| pg16. 07. 2021 15:52:33 |
After a longer absence, I'm posting a mountaineering travelogue - the reason is that after finishing my work obligations in Innsbruck, I returned to Slovenia; there was no shortage of nice tours here, but they are usually ascents that are mostly well-known on the portal and solidly described and documented. However, this does not apply to the present traverse of the famous Karwendel mountain range in the Northern Limestone Alps, which still hung over me despite last year's richly enhanced mountaineering season - I had relatively well crisscrossed only the southernmost and most generally known part of the range, Nordkette, where I stepped on the peaks along the Innsbrucker Klettersteig route, Solstein and Hafelekarspitze, and in November I also approached the less known Lattenspitze and Wildangerspitze. The traverse of the heart of the range, led by the ascent to the highest peak, Birkkarspitze, which starts near Innsbruck and ends near the German-Austrian border in Scharnitz, had to give way to higher and seemingly more prestigious goals, and a weather change later made this complex and demanding tour impossible. I settled the debt during a shorter return to Innsbruck.
Karwendel is the most extensive and one of the most famous massifs in the Northern Limestone Alps, thanks to its proximity to Innsbruck, above which the southern rampart, (awkwardly named) Nordkette, looms like a mighty mountain guard, and one cannot neglect the exceptional scenic location, numerous excellently marked paths, demanding mountain goals and comfortable huts.
Therefore, traversing the heart of the group is quite a popular activity, although most opt for the shorter "high path" without intermediate ascents to peaks or the royal stage from Hallerangerhaus to Karwendelhaus with ascent to Birkkarspitze.
Unlike the higher massifs south of the center of Tyrol, Karwendel reaches a relatively modest height at its highest point, the 2749 m Birkkarspitze, even by Slovenian standards, but it does not skimp on extraordinary natural features - thanks to the limestone, nature has created numerous bold rocky pillars and spires in the wide area of the range (Karwendel is home to many of the hardest ascents in Austria), and the area is crisscrossed by a multitude of idyllic alpine pastures, tarns, torrents and waterfalls. Due to the attractiveness of the environment, Karwendel has over the years earned a somewhat unoriginal label of "Austrian Dolomites", but the eminent difficulties of access to many of its peaks cannot be denied: many spires are reached only by demanding climbing routes of grade IV and above in crumbly terrain, and even marked paths are often easier climbing routes (e.g. Rumer Spitze, Speckkarspitze or Lafatscherspitze). For these reasons - and lower altitude, which was an important factor in the golden and silver age of Alpine conquests - a large part of the heart of Karwendel was relatively late explored, and today, in the time of accelerated adventurism, it does not lack climbing routes, vias ferratas and secured passages - although at the latter, as in the case of Birkkarspitze, the fixed protections are often damaged due to unstable rock.
The entire traverse in the form I planned it required around 8000 m of elevation gain over more than 40 km long route in three full days, which started in the village of Absam near Hall in Tirol and ended in Scharnitz, from where I returned to Innsbruck by train.
Day 1: Absam (632 m) - Bettelwurfhütte (2077 m)
The day after arriving in Innsbruck, after work obligations in Innsbruck, in the afternoon I took the bus to nearby Absam and set off on the trail through the picturesque Halltal valley expecting an ascent in unfavorable weather. Shortly after the start of the serious ascent to the hut, a thunderstorm caught me, but it soon gave way to moderate rain. The ascent on the usual path to the hut is partially demanding with numerous secured sections, where the protections mainly serve for ease of passage and are not necessarily needed for progress; mostly we walk among dwarf pines, in good weather exceptional views over the Inn valley would motivate us all the way. I was largely deprived of them and arrived at the hut in increasingly heavy downpour, which did not yet turn into a new thunderstorm by evening. Clothes dried quickly in the friendly hut with a hot grog, and to the logistical plan for the second day, with the promise of weather improvement in the late morning, I added an ascent to Grosser Bettelwurf via its smaller brother.
Ascent to Bettelwurfhütte is also possible via a relatively new, attractive and not particularly demanding sports via ferrata, which I would certainly have used in other conditions.
Day 2: Bettelwurfhütte - Kleiner Bettelwurf (2650 m) - Bettelwurfhütte - Lafatscher Joch pass (2081 m) - Speckkarspitze (2621 m) - Hallerangerhaus (1768 m)
The second morning, contrary to forecasts, it did not rain and the quickly dried rock drove me faster than expected towards the mighty rock towers of the Bettelwurfs high above the hut. Although there is an easier, partially secured path to Grosser Bettelwurf, I wanted to take advantage of the better conditions (forecasts said the day would get better and the sun would appear already in the morning) and climb via the Bettelwurf via ferrata, which reaches D in the final part, first to the small, then to the large counterpart - this day was indeed dedicated to visiting peaks in the southern part of Karwendel, because to the next hut, Hallerangerhaus, it is only about 2.5 hours of traversing.
When after three quarters of an hour over grassy slopes I reached the rock structure of the Bettelwurfs and thus the start of the via ferrata, the conditions unexpectedly worsened, it cooled down and light rain started. I tried, the rock was still dry despite the all-night thunderstorms after a few rain-free hours, but the via ferrata in the lower part is not very demanding and there were no problems to Kleiner Bettelwurf: we have to overcome two pitches of category B/C, maybe C, one annoying spot needs to be free climbed (allegedly II-), which is only a minor nuisance when wet, the rest is easier and reaches at most B difficulty. The path, like everything in Karwendel, is excellently marked, but extreme cloudiness and darkness forced me to carefully explore the continuation. At the cross on the summit - only by the cross can I conclude I was on the summit, GPS did not confirm it, and I couldn't see anything anyway except a few meters ahead - snow joined the increasingly strong rain, a strong wind howled and the fog became heavier. After hesitation, I descended to the saddle between the Bettelwurfs and waited there a few minutes for the promised improvement, looking at the final part - between the Bettelwurfs there is only 75 m difference, but several pitches of C/D-D difficulty and an exposed ridge to the summit make up the bulk of the ascent difficulty in the final section.
Since the conditions were getting worse and I was honestly freezing - I left most of the warmer clothes in the hut due to the via ferrata nature of the path - I had no choice but to descend back via the via ferrata to the start. The descent was on wet and crumbly rock, but no problems to the hut, where I quickly dried.
In the afternoon the rain stopped and the sun slowly announced itself, so I set off towards continuing the traverse. After an hour and a half I was at the extensive and transitionally important Lafatscher Joch saddle, where in the bushes I left excess gear, food and clothes for the ascent and headed along the south ridge towards the next peak, long-desired Speckkarspitze.
The ascent via the south ridge is an easier climbing route, which in the first three quarters of an hour shows a distinctly mild character; when we reach the rock of one of the towers in the ridge, the character changes and at the chimney we start climbing to the summit. The initial ascent is technically the most difficult and reaches grade II climbing; then we constantly climb grade I on locally quite exposed, scenic ridge, only some spots perhaps eye a shade higher grade. Since, unlike most of Karwendel (and also the descent north ridge), the rock on the south ridge is excellent, the ascent is a real pleasure.
After less than an hour and a half ascent from the saddle I stood on the summit, where three German mountaineers awaited me. Together we waited for partial clearing of clouds, which allowed some exceptional views, although most of the panorama remained covered. I stayed quite a while on the spacious, nice summit, a little after four in the afternoon I headed down via the easier, not particularly exposed and well secured, but crumbly north ridge. Along the path exceptional views towards the heart of Karwendel revealed themselves, conditions were getting better. Lower I found a simple unmarked traverse path that brought me to the saddle without additional ascent and in the increasingly sunny and "crowded" afternoon I slowly descended to Hallerangerhaus hut, which lies in a very tempting landscape under the imposing and visually appealing north face of Speckkarspitze. Before night, the (only) lovely sunset followed, and the lower crowding of the hut also served well for rest before the most demanding part of the traverse.
Day 3: Hallerangerhaus - junction below Kasten Alm (approx. 1200 m) - (Birkkarhütte (2635 m)) - Birkkarspitze (2749 m, highest peak of Karwendel) - Karwendelhaus (1765 m)
On Saturday the royal stage followed, where we do almost 15 km of path with more than 3000 m of elevation gain; except for the final ascent to Birkkarspitze, the route also represents the most difficult part of the popular Adlerweg circuit, characterized by numerous ample ascents and descents and, at least in the planned direction, long ascents over vast scree (in the original, reverse direction, it is nevertheless less strenuous). The path crosses near Birkkarhütte (unattended, actually bivouac) about a hundred meters below the highest peak of Karwendel, famous Birkkarspitze, which is separated from us by another good fifteen minutes of demanding and locally dangerous final ascent.
After waking to a beautiful morning, I first descended about 600 meters on the gravel road in attractive landscape to the junction below Kasten alpine pasture, where behind the marsh on the path I spotted a pleasant trail that winds above a small canyon of Birkkarbach stream towards the extensive slopes south of Birkkarspitze. Over the secured stream crossing, some climbing is needed, higher the path increasingly resembles high mountain hikes in the limestone Julian Alps, which is actually - contrary to the ranges south of Innsbruck - characteristic of the entire Karwendel. In the great heat and with the enormous weight of the full large backpack, which carried among other things the entire (unused) winter gear, the strenuous scree ascents were even more exhausting [there are some snow fields on the paths, but they cause no problems or are mostly helpful and provide cooling]. To the Schlauchkar saddle and Birkkarhütte between Birkkarspitze peaks and the only slightly lower Ödkarspitze massif, in the final part a non-demanding secured path leads us, where due to the extremely broken terrain the protections are locally damaged; when descending with climbers above you, I recommend a helmet. The long ascent in the fierce heat over scorching rock with inhumanly heavy backpack exhausted me considerably, so I took the opportunity for a short rest in the bivouac, where I also left unnecessary things before ascending Birkkarspitze.
As already said, the final ascent to the summit is short, but due to extreme crumbliness and torn protections it is the key and most demanding part of the stage. The terrain is exposed, requires constant full concentration, and locally we also climb a bit. Views from the heavily visited (also on this day) summit are vast, below us most of the sharp peaks and picturesque valleys of the extensive Karwendel boast themselves, the view also catches the bulk of the Zillertal, Stubai and Ötztal Alps to the south.
From Hallerangerhaus to Birkkarspitze summit is about 7 hours walk.
I did not stay long on the summit and cautiously returned to the saddle. Initially I planned to hop to the east peak of nearby Ödkarspitze, but due to forecasted late afternoon thunderstorms (between Hallerangerhaus and near Scharnitz I got signal only at the bivouac! - Karwendel) and long ascent I started quick descent to the north side towards Karwendelhaus on the "usual path" to Birkkarspitze. The latter is substantially easier and less strenuous than the ascent path, over extensive scree slopes patches of snow help us, which currently serve only as aid - winter gear is no longer needed anywhere on the path. After a good hour and a half of comfortable descent I approached the full and lively Karwendelhaus, which with its location in the attractive environment of central Karwendel attracts numerous hikers and cyclists.
Towards evening the hot dry weather gave way to an all-night thunderstorm.
Day 4: Karwendelhaus - Karwendelbrücke (approx. 1000 m) - Scharnitz (964) and return by train to Innsbruck
The final, descent day of the traverse started gloomy, with heavy showers that were supposed to last - according to the hut keeper, no signal in this landscape - until one in the afternoon, so I gave up the short morning ascent to the hut's house peak, Hochalmkreuz, and slowly walked towards the valley; I soon regretted the latter, because it cleared up right after departure, and there was less and less cloudiness. But anyway! Descent to Scharnitz is long and drawn out, but due to the tempting landscape with numerous forms of watercourses (and on the day I was happy about the success of the referendum in Slovenia) relatively entertaining. All the time we walk on a good gravel road, losing height very gradually, so the path is perfect for cycling - many passing cyclists testified to that. An hour before Scharnitz I turned onto a narrow path above the picturesque canyon of the Isar river, which rises a bit higher in the Karwendel range, to the sympathetic tourist spot Scharnitz near the Austrian-German border I arrived via a pleasant walking path above the river. After refreshment at the old rock'n'roll mill I returned by train to Innsbruck an hour away, watched the European Championship final in the evening and the next day headed towards the three-thousander Nederkogl in the Ötztal Alps - about that in the next post.
Bottom line, traversing the central part of Karwendel is ambitious and, if optimal conditions are met, a beautiful tour in an exceptional environment, which I can only recommend to those who do not seek only mighty three-thousanders and extreme vias ferratas when visiting Tyrolean peaks.
 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99 100 101 102 103 104 105 106 107 108 109 110 111 112 113 114 115 116 117 118 119 120 121 122 123 124 125 126
| (+12) |  | |
|
|