Mighty Piz Linard (3410 m) with surroundings, 25.-26.8.2020 (Silvretta)
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| pg31. 08. 2020 02:36:37 |
Last week before academic obligations came the last big tour of the high summer season. After the planned crossing of part of the highest Stubai Alps group between Wilder Freiger and Zuckerhütl didn't work out (which I still plan for September) I invited a friend on what seemed a less complex two-day tour across the border to Switzerland, to the highest peak of the well-known Silvretta range, lying on the Austria-Switzerland border and south of it on the Swiss side.
Piz Linard - J/SW ridge+variant (III-/II, partly friable and exposed, difficult orientation); usual route via southern flank (I, friable, cairns!)
Piz Glims - direct approach via eastern flank (II); easy unmarked path via S ridge
Piz Linard at 3410m is the highest peak of the range hosting numerous famous ski resorts, probably the most famous (and at least among 3000ers the most visited) in it is renowned Piz Buin which at 3312m lags less than 100m behind Linard. Buin was considered too, but I opted for Linard which by normal route shouldn't be too big a problem (rated T6 but easier per descriptions).
Piz Linard is a true alpine peak of the Eastern Alps. No trail leads to it except "normalweg" via southern flank which is technically only slightly demanding (but all the more friable!), and on routes to it we'll rarely meet cairns; all other paths alpine routes UIAA II-III and more. Main orientation is boot prints in broken cliffs and reasonable deduction of best passage. I missed pathless terrain this year somewhat so decision for tour turning into quite an adventure was quick.
After long drive we arrived Tuesday morning in Lavin village near Davos and after some hassle getting francs started pleasant path in wonderful surroundings to small hut Chamanna dal Linard at 2327m where we got warm welcome (big contrast to Austrian experiences!) and enjoyed superb view of Piz Linard and southern Inn valley. Too late that day for Linard assault so afternoon headed to plain with three cute small lakes and after chat with returning from Piz Linard pondered tomorrow's approach and for "training" and view directly via shattered rocky eastern flank climbed easily accessible Piz Glims (2868m, up to II, solid rock) offering exceptional close-up of dominant Piz Linard, quite thrilling views to numerous Swiss and Italian 3000ers too; latter somewhat clouded in unexpectedly windy and rather cold afternoon. Down unmarked but traceable path along easy ridge to pass Fuorcla de Glims where I checked best approach variants to Linard. After review decided for southwest ridge reaching II-III difficulty but per locals orientation tricky long and friable; more direct SE ridge alternative looked too sharp visually while SW (or S see below) promised nice climbing in very panoramic scenic world.
Despite Swiss inflated prices (sausage chunk with potatoes from bag 15 francs, sleeping on communal mats with ÖAV card 25...) evening in relaxed pleasant company of warden, assistant and despite great forecast for tomorrow the only other group which with guide headed to summit early morning before us.
Piz Linard hard-to-reach peak but besides usual southern approach (friable gullies steep scree gravel below I-places helmet mandatory!) can ascend various ridges hosting easier alpine routes - besides our SW (II+) somewhat harder SE (III) from other side similar NE... Southwest ridge most extended indirect as climbs long dropping line with dizzying towers rising - route over and south side under them. From hut good 4h to summit; we due to groping much more...
Per summitpost description also nearer southern ridge merging with SW at summit ridge somewhat easier (II); same side ridge elsewhere (incl per warden) marked as "real" SW (indeed SW of peak) planned SW (III) its variant... Anyway morning despite prev day decision from Fuorcla de Glims headed nearby side spur offering more direct interesting path to junction on main terrain.
No decent ridge passage at start so tracked prints led bit too low above scree valley. Higher nice ridge passage showed so followed rock prints (even single cairn) but not usable. Higher wall better I read of another variant to main ridge junction via rocks by narrow snow gully. With winter gear easy but left (rightly) in hut; climbing increasingly hard (lower III belayed friend at keys) holds poor flank steep friable unpleasant though occasionally exposed. Advanced slowly and for a long time till spotted returning group above on ridge indicating passage. Not visible from position so continued flat south wall rocks already high just below ridge smooth rock stopped. Then from height saw relatively easy ridge passage; descended a few tens of meters and via beautiful fairly easy partly exposed ledge after long ascent little trouble crossed to ridge crest.
Ridge continuation vs climbed offered enjoyable II climbing wonderful surroundings views. Quickly just tens of meters above snow gully left flank descended to ridge passage helped by firm tracks continued main ridge. Also after junction (variant?) very pleasant airy I-II climbing just below first jagged tower nice south side passage under it. Second tower small puzzle: direct ridge impossible vertical smooth wall very exposed ledge under seemingly obvious but per rating too hard seemed ending abyss. Short hesitation descended steep terrain to broken south flank (I+) found tracks again traversed under pinnacle back to ridge. Continuation mostly airy over pinnacles or south flanks just under. Little before merging with normal on summit flank on last pinnacle vertical wall gaping deep valley steep descent to easier summit found bit below south side (I).
Few mins before summit ridge widens obvious trod path sudden cairns help relatively easy through friable to summit crest then big cairn few steps airy ridge to top.
View from Piz Linard indescribable: below vast Silvretta glaciers sharp peaks above (incl Piz Buin) Verwall Ötztal Alps Ortler group with mighty former Austro-Hungarian highest Bernina with Piz Bernina Piz Palü reaches Western 4000ers like Finsteraarhorn lost deep valleys... Truly due exposed position highest in area fantastic panorama.
Not too long summit wind nice day late hour back via normal to hut. "Normalweg" much easier esp vs morning tries quick descent very friable not hard flank main danger falling stones crumbling world. Lower climb few easy steps (I) ~2h at lakes under Piz Linard rock wall. Rest lakes continued hut longer stay evening descend Lavin night farewell long drive back Innsbruck.
Piz Linard ascent except normal (still very demanding unmarked or strictly pathless) serious requiring alpine experience orientation sense reliable step very friable - regardless route (maybe honorable SE ridge exception especially sharp exposed demanding) recognizably shattered terrain. Routes summer conditions no winter gear. Though SW less popular than airier SE ideal line very nice long complex worth rec. Hut area waterfalls lakes views alpine flora extra incentive visit this less known Silvretta giant enchanting panorama.
Grand demanding long tour one highlights excellent season.
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| Kvis31. 08. 2020 21:22:13 |
Exceptional Gasper. Great tour with even better views. Keep it up.
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| pg1. 09. 2020 17:38:39 |
Thanks to both. Given the current madness at the start of the post-corona conference season, this excellent tour was the right, necessary boost. 
Anyway, this part of the Graubünden canton is such a really likable, relatively quiet piece of land. I would especially praise the colleague on the tour, who had not tackled pathless terrain before, let alone such demanding ones.
Wishing you a pleasant mountain autumn,
Gašper
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