| viharnik13. 07. 2012 22:43:10 |
There are plenty of connecting tours between mountain huts above Lanslebourg, but few tours to high peaks without glacier encounters, which are now turning into dark ice at the bottom. Based on this fact and the mountain's intrigue that attracted me years ago, I decided to go for it. The mountain is located right above Lanslebourg, but its E-SE slopes aren't visible from the valley because the lower grassy ridge at 2400m blocks the view. Early morning drive to parking Les Grattias 1810m, then boots on. In spring, when days are shorter, Refuge du Vallonbrun 2270m is handy as start, 2h 30min official walk from parking. From hut to summit still quite a hike, around 4-5 hours, depending on conditions. Path goes towards monument La Pierre aux Pieds on high grassy ridge at 2750m. Surprisingly, summit still far from there, real mountaineering path starts only then. Further, need good sense for safe and logical progression finding passages all the way to last snowfield Glacier de Pisselerand at 3270m. No path, just crumbled scree from steps here and there. All indicates summit not frequently visited in summer. More in spring when snow in cirque is firm and frozen, easing access to col below wide summit tower. So I cross above glacier and via rocks left to edge of narrow cirque part. There the steepness exceeds couloir. Plus snow melting now, scree with sinking sand literally waterlogged and very slippery like fresh mortar. Stones often fly into cirque gully, black ice covered with gravel sometimes, hard to spot. Upon entering cirque, see bottom funnel full of big rocks and stones scattered on snowfield. I tried some side rock climbing, but no go. Terrain very shaly, scree-loaded in between, quite brittle, fragile. All piled in this only narrow passage, moreover without summer crampons (ice axe, helmet yes), so sum of circumstances, felt summit waits for better conditions. Aborted ascent at 3380m with strong wind gusts and cold. In the hut I learned group ahead tried summit but turned back due to falling stones in cirque. Still, excellent interesting tour fully succeeded and I was honored to stand so close to unusually mystical mountain, mountain "altar". Mountain, due to almost fully south aspect, easiest May to early June when snow still firm and frozen at altitudes. Summit tower pillar requires grade II climbing, rope belay recommended for descent, falling rocks, full-day tour!. I'll return when summit calls .
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