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Grand Roc Noir 3582m

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viharnik13. 07. 2012 22:43:10
There are plenty of connecting tours between mountain huts above Lanslebourg, but few tours to high peaks without glacier encounters, which are now turning into dark ice at the bottom.
Based on this fact and the mountain's intrigue that attracted me years ago, I decided to go for it. The mountain is located right above Lanslebourg, but its E-SE slopes aren't visible from the valley because the lower grassy ridge at 2400m blocks the view.
Early morning drive to parking Les Grattias 1810m, then boots on. In spring, when days are shorter, Refuge du Vallonbrun 2270m is handy as start, 2h 30min official walk from parking. From hut to summit still quite a hike, around 4-5 hours, depending on conditions. Path goes towards monument La Pierre aux Pieds on high grassy ridge at 2750m. Surprisingly, summit still far from there, real mountaineering path starts only then. Further, need good sense for safe and logical progression finding passages all the way to last snowfield Glacier de Pisselerand at 3270m. No path, just crumbled scree from steps here and there. All indicates summit not frequently visited in summer. More in spring when snow in cirque is firm and frozen, easing access to col below wide summit tower.
So I cross above glacier and via rocks left to edge of narrow cirque part. There the steepness exceeds couloir. Plus snow melting now, scree with sinking sand literally waterlogged and very slippery like fresh mortar. Stones often fly into cirque gully, black ice covered with gravel sometimes, hard to spot. Upon entering cirque, see bottom funnel full of big rocks and stones scattered on snowfield. I tried some side rock climbing, but no go. Terrain very shaly, scree-loaded in between, quite brittle, fragile. All piled in this only narrow passage, moreover without summer crampons (ice axe, helmet yes), so sum of circumstances, felt summit waits for better conditions. Aborted ascent at 3380m with strong wind gusts and cold. In the hut I learned group ahead tried summit but turned back due to falling stones in cirque. Still, excellent interesting tour fully succeeded and I was honored to stand so close to unusually mystical mountain, mountain "altar". Mountain, due to almost fully south aspect, easiest May to early June when snow still firm and frozen at altitudes. Summit tower pillar requires grade II climbing, rope belay recommended for descent, falling rocks, full-day tour!.
I'll return when summit callsnasmeh.
Grand Roc Noir 3582m Start of the path in the early morning, behind Pointe de Ronce 3611m1
Grand Roc Noir 3582m First alpine huts2
Grand Roc Noir 3582m After some time of walking, the upper world of mountains opens up3
Grand Roc Noir 3582m The sun illuminates the mountains4
Grand Roc Noir 3582m Morning milking with the help of a generator5
Grand Roc Noir 3582m Marmots are already watching the newcomer6
Grand Roc Noir 3582m 7
Grand Roc Noir 3582m Shot from the alpine pasture at 2335m, above the last hut on the left near raufnk, in the distance Refuge du Vallonbrun 2270m8
Grand Roc Noir 3582m Crossing river beds9
Grand Roc Noir 3582m Edelweiss also grow here10
Grand Roc Noir 3582m Long grassy traverses on the sunny ridge, behind in the shade Grand Roc Noir11
Grand Roc Noir 3582m Geologically interesting rock structure12
Grand Roc Noir 3582m At the memorial find la Pierre aux Pieds 2750m13
Grand Roc Noir 3582m In the 15th century they carved children's footprints into the live rock here, translation below. The stone is like an altar before the mountains, the direction of the footprints indicates worship of the mountains of pure children who once stood here14
Grand Roc Noir 3582m In front of the rock there is a triple staircase made of durable South American wood and partially protected by a fence15
Grand Roc Noir 3582m The view from the rock is really fantastic!16
Grand Roc Noir 3582m Even Grand Roc Noir appears as a holy altar high among the clouds17
Grand Roc Noir 3582m Among the rocky mountains, the warmth of the colors of a solitary flower delights me18
Grand Roc Noir 3582m The path is not visible, the direction goes across the central steep scree19
Grand Roc Noir 3582m To avoid the apparently beautiful snowfields to the left onto the rocks (water gurgles under the snow!)20
Grand Roc Noir 3582m In spring there is an excellent long ski run here21
Grand Roc Noir 3582m Searching for passages over the rocks22
Grand Roc Noir 3582m Already on the last plateau of the Glacier de Pisselerand glacier 3270m high below the summit23
Grand Roc Noir 3582m Here I take the direction of the middle ramp traverse to the mountain massif, to the right I climb to the narrow snow tongue in the shape of an arrow24
Grand Roc Noir 3582m The right side part of the beginning of the steep gully and actually already the highest ridge of the mountain massif25
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viharnik14. 07. 2012 08:59:24
According to guidebook data, from parking Les Grattias 1819m to summit Grand Roc Noir 8 hours walk with effective 1850m elevation gain and additional -150m, total 2000m ascent. I took 5h 20min pure walking to cirque 200m below summit, plus changing to warmer underclothes and muesli bar lunch.
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