| Macesna7. 08. 2022 22:45:06 |
On vacation in the Dolomites, we climbed these two bold towers above Sella Pass. The second tower (Seconda Torre del Sella, 2598 m) is particularly interesting, as it has a demanding and very beautiful approach. The so-called via normale is a combination of climbing I and II grade, some hiking, and the summit is closed by a nearly 20m high chimney first II then III difficulty.
The towers (most often four are mentioned) are a popular alpinistic goal, there are many routes in their walls in rather compact rock, the beauty of the surroundings and atmosphere are exceptional.
Small parking lot (very hard to get a spot) is right at the top of Sella Pass (2240 m), at hotel Maria Flora. Larger (paid) parking is somewhat further ahead, about 100 vertical meters lower, but we preferred the bus (with overnight in the valley you can get a card for free local buses).
About 40 minutes takes the unmarked path from Maria Flora to the towers, to the foot of the south wall (actually the wall between the towers and neighboring Piz Ciavazes), which from afar looks impossible to cross easily. But it is possible, via ledges and 'canalini'. The start goes over a polished and quite nasty scree-gully, first 3m rated III+. Can bypass it somewhat to the right (II). Then we looked for alpinists' descent traces (if they don't abseil), there are cairns (though visible mainly downhill), sometimes a path, otherwise climb I and II grade in short pitches. Rock is good. Midway there's a fork: left to 'cengia erbosa', grassy ledge leading to 1st tower (Prima Torre del Sella, 2533 m), which we climbed a few days earlier and is lower and easier accessible than 2nd. This time we turn right on path then soon left. Here more climbing. Hardest is the mentioned pitch with chimney at end (II and III, under 20m) on north side, where we belayed once. At chimney top ring on bolts, midway a prusik-equipped rock horn, common in Dolomite rock as we found. From there ledge right to summit, which as expected has little space (even less on 1st tower teeth), summit book not missing. View and whole atmosphere truly stunning; around you pure verticals – wild, real world of bold towers and steep walls, where you penetrated so quickly from friendly green meadows of Sella Pass.
Descent same way of course; down chimney with belay. Info on approach to towers mostly on Italian sites. Orientation not entirely simple: find easiest passages and watch not to follow descent traces from other walls.
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