| IgorZlodej27. 08. 2014 09:51:44 |
Starting point is in Val Piove valley, along the Laggio - Ciampigotto pass - Sella Razzo road.
Initially I go along the military road, then a bit on the trail, then again on the road and finally only along the nice, almost too gentle mulatiera, which takes me to Giovanni Spagnolli bivouac at 2047 m. Since it's still early afternoon I continue to the notch (Forcella Ciadin Alto Ovest), where I snack, then descend to the north side to Ursella-Zandonella bivouac (named after alpinist Angelo Ursella, who had an accident in 1970 on the north face of Eiger).
I overnight in the bivouac and in the morning still in darkness head back up to the notch and traverse along the ridge path to Ciadin Alto Est notch. No markings, although the path is marked with red dots on the map. There are individual cairns along the ridge. Locally exposed, difficulty reaches barely II.
From the notch onwards easy scrambling eastwards, route marked with dots and faded ocher lines all the way to comfortable ledge crossing steep north slope and bringing me to gully with fork. I choose the left one and soon after climbing around II find myself in otherwise wide chimney that's dark, rocks wet. There I drop backpack and climb the "chimney", at top there's a driven piton for belay. Follows ascent to ridge II- and along ridge to notch, where I finish the foggy ascent.
Followed careful descent to eastern notch, where I snack. To G. Spagnolli bivouac I descend former mulatiera, which in lower part already overgrown with brush, luckily possible also on grass between brush. In wet, as in my case somewhat uncomfortable. Further descent to valley already in sun.
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