List of forums / Italy / Carnic Alps / Creta Grauzaria

Creta Grauzaria

IgorZlodej14. 07. 2011 19:28:08

This time the third time to Cengle dal Bec. From Aupa valley along the marked path towards Grauzaria hut. When we emerge from the forest, we turn left uphill and higher up under the wall of Cima del Sfinge we join the path leading from Grauzaria hut to Bivacco Dionisio Feruglio. Soon a more serious ascent begins, which levels off under the walls past the famous Torre Medace and other picturesque towers. Then follows a gully along which the path once ran; now you have to cross the slope and climb to the bivouac via a new variant. At the bivouac a short break, then the path starts along goat tracks, which in places is nasty scree and three gullies, each longer than the previous, which must be descended—not easy everywhere; of course belays in the form of cables help, nevertheless some arm strength is needed, and also some easy downclimbing over rock steps. After about 400 m descent we are at the lowest point and have to go back up, but this time along an easily traceable track right under the west wall of Grauzaria, sometimes even on grass. Quite nasty is the ascent through crumbly scree to the path from Grauzaria village to Portonat saddle, but that track is pure luxury compared to the crumbly scree, although not too short. At Portonat saddle another short break, drop the backpacks and climb to the top of Grauzaria (I.—in places poor II.). Thunder in the distance speeds our step, but it is no less safe for that. At the top just a handshake, then immediately down. Somewhere behind above Paularo there's already a shower, a few drops fall, which don't bother. Quickly down the gully to Grauzaria hut. Chat with the nice caretakers drags on a bit, then down to the start. Recommended for trained mountaineers, but there are also easier tours around, like ascent to Foran de la Gialine saddle and on to Monte Flop, to Crete Mezzodi, and don't miss the hut, where you'll be served friendly.

Creta Grauzaria right at the start poor markings

Creta Grauzaria below the wall Cima del Sfinge

Creta Grauzaria bivouac Dionisio Feruglio on a panoramic plateau, but no view this time

Creta Grauzaria lowest point of the goat paths

Creta Grauzaria on the other side of the mountain the complete opposite, path in the greenery

Creta Grauzaria which winds in a picturesque setting

Creta Grauzaria and ends at the Portonat saddle

Creta Grauzaria Mandona just below the summit and...

Creta Grauzaria descent to the Portonat saddle

Creta Grauzaria towards the Grauzaria hut

Creta Grauzaria friendly hut with friendly staff

Creta Grauzaria narrow paths and gullies

(+3)

mirank22. 06. 2015 23:52:50

On Sunday the weather conditions were ideal for this tour, which I did in the same direction as nicely described above and in Stritar's description. If I think about it, I wouldn't even want to repeat it in the reverse direction. Above Portonat saddle there really is a few meters more demanding rock step with two pegs for protection. But I must emphasize that the rock in the summit part is quite solid—the exact opposite of some parts in the gullies. On descent I avoided the lower step and descended to the saddle pretty much by nose; about 20 m right of the markers, as it seemed easier to me there. I think the original route went there; if you look closely you see a couple of really faded red spots. The whole way I met one chamois on Cengle dal Bec and an Italian couple on the top, of course the friendly hut was well visited.

(+1)

matic44. 08. 2015 16:06:29

The described circular tour is really worth it if the weather is nice. The path is interesting all the way, requires some concrete climbing. View from the top excellent. With moderate pace and breaks 9-10 hours.

From left: M.Chiavals, Zuc dal Bor, M.Crostis - back left Montaž, right Kanin

(+4)

darinka44. 08. 2015 17:02:43

Bivouac still stands? I remember it when we went a few years ago. lp

matic44. 08. 2015 22:11:40

Yes, it's still there.

coffee20. 09. 2018 21:02:04

To wipe off some cobwebs and dust...

Today I went to Creta Grauzaria via the route: parking under the hut/start of path 437—junction above Flop pasture—bivak Feruglio—protected path Ferrucci—shelf Cengle dal Boc—notch Portonat—Creta Grauzaria—descent to the notch and continue to the hut and to the start.

From the start to the well-marked junction about 30 minutes. From there the path is somewhat less marked but well traceable. It heads to the nearest ridge where it joins path 446, which then continues left along the wall to a small notch under the first tower, visible from afar. Follows a short protected section, but not difficult. The entire path to the bivouac runs through very nice surroundings where towers and notches alternate, offering views towards Nassfeld triplet and Zuc dal Bor. From the bivouac onwards the probably hardest part of the path begins, lasting almost to Portonat notch. It starts with a long descent down a scree gully. The path crosses the gully to the ridge on the right in descent direction and then mostly sticks to the ridge. Then a short steep ascent, then again long descent down a new scree gully and then ascent to the notch at the top of the prominent narrow gully, visible from afar. There the protected Ferrucci path begins. It runs again in long descent down scree gully. Already at the forest line the path turns uphill, all the time along the ridge above the gully, which then widens, then again into scree gully. The path then crosses the gully to the ridge on the left, becomes easier and leads to the really impressive Portonat notch. Well visible red dots mark the unprotected path/direction to Creta Grauzaria. Actually the most difficult is the very start (mentioned as II+), then mostly along nice ledges and passages interrupted by shorter less demanding jumps. The characteristic rock curtain limiting the path between hut and notch on one side is also well visible. Descent is the same way. At the start of the direction there are two prepared anchors. For descent from the highest I think 20-30 m rope is enough. Descent from notch to hut is somewhat scree but not too difficult.

Generally, the circular path is one big scree and definitely easier in the opposite direction. But the first part to the bivouac is extremely beautiful. From car to car I took about 9.5 hours.

Well-marked branch with signpost and cairn.

Higher the path turns towards the tower.

orientation becomes a bit difficult, mainly right and down

view back, I'll see more of it on the rest of the path

long descent then ascent to the col, but not up the gully

after a dozen meters on jammed boulders turn left to a more comfortable path

start of route, first anchor right bottom then zigzag on ledges

branch leading over Cima dai Gjài summit to the path to Monte Sernio

(+5)

rozka2. 09. 2019 22:56:39

Ah, how hard it was to get up in the morning and if I'd known, maybe I wouldn't have zavijanje z očmi

...gotten up and gone on a real adventure, where wilderness, boldness and varied enchanting passages get completely different dimensions...we park at Val Aupa parking, behind Grauzaria hut, and a bit above now the remains of Casera Flop, we turn left to bivak Feruglio. We ascend right through the dry streambed, among boulders, easier for us than the narrow grassy track. A bit below the wall the path from the hut joins and follows steep ascent, then traverse, up, down and first "scream" mežikanje

...the path winds among mini-towers, narrow passages, huge towers surround this part of the path...really, a true rock fairy tale. The path then leads to grassy-rocky shoulder under the walls, where bivak Feruglio lies. It has 6 bunks, blankets and it's worth splitting the tour into two days, as it's really long.
We two take a short break and since it's cold wind, we continue quickly. Follows ca. 200m steep descent down nasty gully, then the protected path starts, on which for every height gained, you descend at least three eek

. At one point I already thought we'd reach Grauzaria village and knock on someone's door velik nasmeh

, as the descent down the gully seemed endless. Irony is, when you finally reach the ledges of Cenga dal Bec, you know a huge ascent awaits, which you have to make up nasmeh

. There followed a tough ascent up the gully, where there are no steps, everything loose and I was like a young calf on ice, hehe, unlike my companion who elegantly masters such terrain. Here path 444 from/to Grauzaria village joins, we two finally reach Portonat saddle, but since time was running, we continue straight to Grauzaria summit, which as a real lady doesn't let everyone stand on top right at the start, as it has a barrier numbered II. degree. Continuation also not easy, as the path is unprotected and exposed. This summit was only ours too, but we didn't linger long, as dark clouds were gathering, so quick descent. At Portonat saddle we barely take a break, thunder so loud I almost ran barefoot to the valley. Still awaited descent from Portonat, well, that's a chapter of its own, as the gully in the initial part is so ugly, untrodden and broken, walking is real torment. Lower it eases a bit and goes easier. Past Grauzaria hut, back to start, where it starts dripping a bit, but we're out of the "most dangerous", so I didn't care, even if a shower soaks me...

It's a demanding tour, strenuous in terms of length, lots of descent, meaning repeated ascent, path exposed, even where protected, involves demanding descents. Gullies untrodden, steep, then the ascent to the summit itself, which needs climbing, also descent from Grauzaria summit not easy, nor the final descent from Portonat saddle...BUT, this grand tour gives a lot, as the world is different from usual, forces you to realize smallness, and gratitude that we have the opportunity to do and feel such paths... nasmeh

30.08.019

straight path to Grauzaria hut, mi2 turns left

from here was the first cry of admiration ;)

and this scenery completely captivated me

first descent, a little traverse, then along the wall, to the right search for marks

Monte Flop, one day before I stood on both summits :)

(+5)

miri2. 09. 2019 23:04:28

Even your description takes my time, let alone all your ascents. I think you've enjoyed these beautiful ends, for us sometimes so distant mountains.
Congratulations to you and your companions.

(+1)

rozka2. 09. 2019 23:29:20

Thanks Miri nasmeh

...I enjoyed it, at least until the weekend, hehe velik nasmeh

Describing takes me as much time as some long tour mežikanje

(+1)

turbo29. 10. 2019 17:59:57

Saturday, 26.10.2019

A few nights before the tour I didn't sleep, so eagerly I awaited it. A few nights after the tour I didn't sleep, the experience was so intense that I'm still a bit there... To the junction under the hut easy warm-up, through the gully to Portonat strenuous due to steep scree terrain, where the track is and isn't, summit part pure pleasure of pathless terrain with some harder spots. Balm for soul and heart, body not shortchanged. Divine nasmeh

https://tubojan.blogspot.com/2019/10/creta-grauzaria.html

(+12)

jaz29. 10. 2019 18:22:43

My first tour in Karnic Alps in distant 1982 together with friends with whom we built the Friendship Path. From Portonat saddle we also skied back then. Later I was on Creta Grauzaria many more times. Now I'm slowly approaching the 400th summit in Karnic Alps. Salve!

(+1)

legenda29. 10. 2019 19:02:30

Bravo and congrats, turbo!
Very emotional description of the tour, hats off!

(+2)

turbo29. 10. 2019 19:04:33

Thanks

(+2)

djimuzl29. 10. 2019 21:34:21

Jaz, congrats for almost four hundred nasmeh

Bojan, nice tour, nice. Did you count too? nasmeh

(+1)

turbo29. 10. 2019 21:45:21

Thanks

I'm not counting, but it could be done with the help of the blog whose start roughly matches the beginnings of discovering the Carnic Alps and their prealpine world. Let's say I'll visit them until late old age, then when I'm as old as the earth, I'll sit somewhere warm and count them with the blog's help velik nasmeh

(+6)

lynx16. 08. 2020 19:53:52

At the signpost by the hut it says "non agibile" for 444 "Grauzaria paese" (which is separate from Grauzaria). The start from Portonata looked normal, so I guess the problems are lower down.

turbo16. 08. 2020 20:23:25

I was today at Cima dai Gjai, the CAI path 444 is still closed and probably will stay that way forever.

https://www.cai-fvg.it/sentieri-cai-fvg/settore-4-alpi-carniche/s4-444/

In 2017, when we overnighted at Grauzaria hut with the gang, I talked with Federico, the warden, about local paths and he said the terrain on path 444 collapses right away, so they don't plan to restore it. To Portonata is OK, on the other side the part under Cengle dal Bec is still decent, but the part going further to Cimadors Alto (and from there down to Grauzaria village) is crumbled. I've been to Cimadors twice and seen path remains, that under Grauzaria (peak) is really sad.

(+1)

lynx16. 08. 2020 20:33:07

Then there were quite a few Slovenians there, because on the way down we met three touring cyclists returning from Flop past the hut.

turbo16. 08. 2020 20:58:35

I was alone the whole time, from entry to exit of Sentiero alpinistico Piero Nobile. Up to the entry four Italians were following me who went climbing Sfingo, then between Forca Nuviernulis saddle and hut I met only one Italian couple going up, probably to Sernio. At the hut all black with people, some sitting on steps with plate in hand. I barely got to drinks, the older warden was rushing in and out like wound up... Usually I "scan" the logbook at the start, today I didn't, too much hustle. Another two, three weeks and it'll be empty there again...

bagi22. 06. 2022 10:33:27

We visited Creta Grauzaria via the beautiful approach Cengle dal Bec, which delivers you safely around the ass to this beauty. It evaded us for some long years, but this year stars aligned and we walked it with pleasure.

This path together with via ferrata Arturo Ferrucci and path 444 encircles the Grauzaria massif in all its grandeur. But to avoid misunderstanding, Cengle dal Bec is far from a nice path in places. Lots of descents, collapsed gullies, poorly marked path, sequence of strenuous ups and downs from one gully to another and more.

But all that doesn't spoil the excellent impression nasmeh

. Incredible wilderness and pristine environment simply enthuses, the path is cleverly routed and well protected at key points. Some free climbing up to grade II, nothing worse. Those who enjoy such paths and have experience will find a nice challenge here.

Similar with ascent to Creta Grauzaria. Main difficulties are below, higher up the path is easier. Initial part many overcome using the rope, which during our visit was even clipped to the lowest anchor. Without rope it'd be hard already on ascent there, let alone descent.

But there's also a poorly visible but marked passage good 20m further from the rope. Red dots are faded here and easy to miss. If you find them, they take you to higher level via nice passage. Grade II, no more. Here ascent and descent can be done without rope, required experience is obvious. Then some exposed ledges follow and difficulty eases. Throughout follow red dots that reliably bring you to the top. Return is same way, just descent feels more airy.

Followed descent to Rif. Grauzaria hut where we also slept. Despite nice weekend end we were surprisingly the only guests. Wardens are excellent and served us quickly with everything we wanted. Prices for bed, drinks and food are totally normal, nothing more expensive than at home. And don't forget ... we even got free hot shower nasmeh

. After full day hike top pampering velik nasmeh

. More in photostory ...