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FERRATA LIVIO BRENTARI - Dolomiti di Brenta

JORDAN18. 08. 2015 20:56:19

After an early breakfast at Rifugio Silvio Agostini we set off on path no. 358 up under the wall of Cime dAmbiez 3096m. After an hour of walking we reached the dAmbiez glacier-snowfield and climbed onto it with the help of the first cables. On the way we observed a herd of chamois on the other side of the glacier. Across the glacier we followed the path to the ferrata entrance. Well visible also the path on the glacier which leads left to the Bocca dAmbiez saddle through which the shorter ferrata Dell Ideale goes. The glacier-snowfield was despite the early hour already so softened on the surface that crampons were not needed. We entered ferrata Brentari directly from the glacier and climbed straight up with the help of cable and pegs. After a short ledge we climbed with the help of several ladders to the Bocca di Tosa saddle, from there a wide ledge leads eastwards. The ledge is wide enough and very well protected like the whole ferrata. Just before the end of the ledge and thus the ferrata last year there was a small bridge over the ditch which they removed for safety. They rerouted the path a bit higher where there is a short overhanging crossing, but well protected and passage not too difficult. From the saddle we descended on scree to glacier-snowfield under Cima Tosa 3173m which is also the highest peak of Dolomites in Brenta. When the path gets closest to the walls of Cime Tose the path to Cima Toso branches left. Well visible 15-meter ice patch which is the biggest obstacle so highest Brenta peak not mass-visited by hikers. Path still zigzags down scree, gaze always wanders to Campanile Basso tower which is very prominent also from west side. On path under wall of Cima Margherite 2845m we arrived at hut Pedrotti e Tosa. For the path we needed 3:30h. From the hut via Bocca di Brenta saddle on path no. 318 in 1:30h down to hut Brentei. During descent from saddle we observed also climbers in west wall of Campanile Bassa and "ferratists" on ledge of ferrata Bocchette Centrali. At hut Brentei we descended on path no. 391 towards hut Casieni and further to parking in Vallesinelli. For whole path from hut Agostini to Vallesinelle we needed 7:30h. Now to rest on other side of Dolomiti di Brenta in Molveno.