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List of forums / Italy / Dolomites / FERRATA SOSAT-Dolomiti di Brenta

FERRATA SOSAT-Dolomiti di Brenta

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JORDAN16. 08. 2015 20:20:06
Three years ago the planned trip to Dolomiti di Brenta finally took place. It had to be changed a bit thematically and timing-wise, but the main thing is that we decided to visit Brenta. At 3 a.m. we started from Tržič and via Lienz, Bruneck, Bolzano and Kiens we were at 8 a.m. in Madonna di Campiglio. Madonna, this glamorous ski resort always brings back memories of Križaj's first podium in the World Cup, I think in 1978. From Madonna we drove to Vallesinella valley and parked at the parking lot by the hut. Toll and parking for three days, 8€. When the Vallesinella hut parking lot is full, parking is possible in Madonna from where a taxibus runs. From the parking lot we took path no. 317 towards Casinei hut and on to Tuckett hut - 2271 m. It took us 2:15 h to get there; the path is suitable for everyone, so the hut is very popular. The hut can also be reached from Gröste saddle via path no. 331 and later no. 316 in approx. 1:30 h, or from Brentei hut via path no. 318 and later no. 328. All these paths are easy. After a one-hour break we set off from Tuckett hut on path no. 303 towards Tuckett saddle and after a good 20 minutes of walking turned right across the stream to path no. 305 marked for ferrata SOSAT. The path later becomes no. 305b. Right on the other side of the stream, ferrata SOSAT officially starts with the first short ladder, but there is still no need to put on the self-belay set yet because the path is easy for another hour. For some time we walk among rock boulders, larger rocks under the wall of Punta Massari 2839 m, then the path is normal and easy to follow again. Such a path brings us to the real start of the ferrata. For the descent into the gully under Punto Campiglio 2870 m we gear up as the descent is very steep. Down ladders and pegs into the gully and over the jammed rock to the other side, where we will climb to the ledge. For the ascent to the ledge, last season they used a cca 15 m high ladder which they have now sawed off at the bottom. Now, to the right of the ladder, they have placed first slanted then straight-up pegs and cable. The ascent is slightly overhanging at one spot; everything is exposed but not difficult. Along the comfortable ledge we continued to the bend where a wonderful sight appears. On the right Crozzon di Brenta 3135 m, on the left Cima Tosa 3171 m and between them the glacier Vedretta di Camosci. A little further along the ledge we come to the overhang above the ledge, where one needs to duck a bit to continue. Caution is needed here as it is not protected. From the ledge downwards we can see Brentei hut, which we must reach. The higher-lying Alimonta hut is also well visible. Towards the end the ledge drops into the streambed and ladders and cable are installed for the descent. To the overnight stay we still have a good half hour. The path from Tuckett hut to Brentei hut took us 4:30 h. Overnight in Brentei hut with PZS card 14€, beer 4€, coffee 1.5€. Despite the advance reservation I had to explain to the hutkeeper that we Slovenes with PZS card and paid membership get a discount on overnight stay. The hut was almost full, the offer varied, the staff very friendly. That's it for day 1 of wandering.
FERRATA SOSAT-Dolomiti di Brenta start in Vallesinelli1
FERRATA SOSAT-Dolomiti di Brenta at Casinei hut, Presanella in background2
FERRATA SOSAT-Dolomiti di Brenta Towards the Tuckett hut, Ortler under snow on the right.3
FERRATA SOSAT-Dolomiti di Brenta Tuckett hut4
FERRATA SOSAT-Dolomiti di Brenta Tuckett hut5
FERRATA SOSAT-Dolomiti di Brenta There on the other side of the gully the ferrata SOSAT goes.6
FERRATA SOSAT-Dolomiti di Brenta According to the markings, still 3 hours to the hut.7
FERRATA SOSAT-Dolomiti di Brenta Tuckett saddle 2549m8
FERRATA SOSAT-Dolomiti di Brenta First ladder9
FERRATA SOSAT-Dolomiti di Brenta Tuckett hut on the other side of the gully and now the Madonna di Campiglio ski slopes.10
FERRATA SOSAT-Dolomiti di Brenta Nice path11
FERRATA SOSAT-Dolomiti di Brenta Among rocky boulders12
FERRATA SOSAT-Dolomiti di Brenta Well visible path13
FERRATA SOSAT-Dolomiti di Brenta Before the entrance to the gully, right Crozzon di Brenta 3135m and left Cima Tosa 3171m, exit path visible below.14
FERRATA SOSAT-Dolomiti di Brenta Descent on ladders15
FERRATA SOSAT-Dolomiti di Brenta Ladders, pegs and cable16
FERRATA SOSAT-Dolomiti di Brenta Not for the vertiginous17
FERRATA SOSAT-Dolomiti di Brenta Well secured18
FERRATA SOSAT-Dolomiti di Brenta Exit ledge on the other side of the gully19
FERRATA SOSAT-Dolomiti di Brenta Old ladder on the other side20
FERRATA SOSAT-Dolomiti di Brenta Wedged rock over which we go to the other side of the gully21
FERRATA SOSAT-Dolomiti di Brenta Along the newly made route from the gully to the ledge22
FERRATA SOSAT-Dolomiti di Brenta steep and exposed23
FERRATA SOSAT-Dolomiti di Brenta exit onto the ledge24
FERRATA SOSAT-Dolomiti di Brenta the ledge is wide enough25
FERRATA SOSAT-Dolomiti di Brenta Cima Tosa and Crozzon di Brenta and the di Camosci glacier between them26
FERRATA SOSAT-Dolomiti di Brenta overhang above the ledge behind where caution is needed27
FERRATA SOSAT-Dolomiti di Brenta far below, the Brentei hut28
FERRATA SOSAT-Dolomiti di Brenta view towards the Alimonta hut29
FERRATA SOSAT-Dolomiti di Brenta last via ferrata equipment on the descent into the gully30
FERRATA SOSAT-Dolomiti di Brenta Brentei hut in the afternoon sun31
FERRATA SOSAT-Dolomiti di Brenta well-deserved rest32
FERRATA SOSAT-Dolomiti di Brenta chapels stand next to every hut33
FERRATA SOSAT-Dolomiti di Brenta up there the ledge runs along which we walked34
(+9)like
kofetarca16. 08. 2015 20:47:33
Through your description and pictures I revive memories from six years ago when we wandered for 4 days on the most beautiful ledges of Brenta. Wonderful, I would repeat that tour nasmeh
(+1)like
VanSims29. 08. 2015 13:24:18
I did this ferrata during this year's holiday, report follows.

Actually there are no special features, it's relatively easy (A/B - one single section, the one with pegs instead of ladder mentioned in the above description is B/C).

The ferrata is somehow considered a training ferrata for beginners with all ferrata elements: wires, pegs, brackets, ladders,... Still it's good to have some very demanding tour behind you, at least something like Mala Mojstrovka, Kopinškova to Ojstrica, Tominškova,... It's exposed in places.

But the ferrata goes in the usual direction (from Tuckett to Brentei), mostly downhill except that key spot with pegs. Whoever minds that and maybe for a beginner I'd recommend the path in reverse, though those harder pegs will then be downhill.

The approach through those boulders is, even though you're eager for the ferrata, really scenic.

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VanSims29. 08. 2016 18:51:48
Exactly one year after the above post, the fulfillment of the promise about the report is approaching. mežikanje

But before that I'm posting here an interesting route from northern Switzerland to Madonna di Campiglio, where from nearby Vallesinella you start for ferrata SOSAT

https://simsoneblog.wordpress.com/cez-svico-do-madonne-di-campglio/
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VanSims4. 09. 2016 14:46:39
Ferrata SOSAT also from my point of view. mežikanje

https://simsoneblog.wordpress.com/ferata-sosat/
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Janiel7428. 06. 2019 15:21:39
Is it possible to do a circular route in 1 day or better does this option exist?
So first via ferrata SOSAT and then somehow back to start via easy path. Thanks.
(+1)like
VanSims28. 06. 2019 21:29:23
Read my blog one post above yours and it'll all be clear. mežikanje And go in the reverse direction if you don't want 90% of the ferrata downhill. I don't know why almost all descriptions on the net mislead.
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Janiel7428. 06. 2019 21:37:47
Thanks, I will. Since you're an expert on these parts. Is there any mountain accessible without ferrata at all.. already mostly hard to reach any summit in Brenta (higher ones of course), since it's more ferrata mountains, if I can put it that way. Found Cima Roma e.g.... is there any near 3000m a bit easier accessible. How demanding is e.g. Cima Falkner?
(+1)like
VanSims30. 06. 2019 18:13:51
Huh, not exactly an expert on Brenta dolomites, I've been there only twice. mežikanje

Well, exactly from the ferrata of my second visit is the branch to Cima Falkner. Unfortunately chasing the last gondola down and no time for visit. To the summit supposed to be half hour from branch but quite crumbly (helmet!).

My description:

https://simsoneblog.wordpress.com/2018/06/03/sentiero-alfredo-benini/

Bergsteigen:

https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettersteig/sentiero-alfredo-benini-bocchette-weg/

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