| bagi6. 09. 2022 14:06:29 |
Monte Agnèr is a hard-to-reach mountain. It requires excellent fitness and constant concentration from entering the route all the way to the summit. Just this part adds up to 1000 demanding elevation meters, plus the approach from the hut or even from the valley. The descent is the same, only the path choice is limited here. The hardest approach, Stella Alpina via ferrata is not recommended for descent.
Stella Alpina ...
We chose it for the ascent. Stella Alpina via ferrata, or planika as we call it. They're everywhere in the rocks and in places where you'd never expect them. They bring a smile to your face when sweat is dripping heavily from your forehead and you're struggling to grab a decent hold or step. And in this ferrata it drips often  . Mostly due to sun exposure from early morning hours, many times also due to the route's course.
Selection is already at the first passage, soon after the route sign for the ferrata. The wall is steep and exposed, fitted with old, rusted and very loose cables with covered handles. Whoever pushes through here is a good candidate for continuing, whoever struggles should turn back. There follows a good 300 elevation meters of wall. No emergency exits.
After a short leveling it gets serious. In the first part a sequence of several vertical chimneys follows, where the rock offers no good footholds or handholds. Here it's good to study the step sequence for easier progress. No pegs anywhere on the entire ferrata, just a few very short bolts at critical spots. Often it's on friction, even some overhangs. Cables are mostly good, distances between clips large. Exposure is exceptional many times. Technical rating of the hardest parts is C/D. This is the first part of the ferrata ...
The second part is completely different. When we pull over the rock ledge a long traverse to the right towards the bivouac on the saddle awaits. The traverse goes above sheer walls, mostly on rocks, some on grass. The path is decently marked, secured only in a few places. Its feature is length, climbing difficulty stays in the frame of good A. More than technical difficulty, caution in walking and following faded marks matter. So it is all the way to bivouac G. Biasin, located above the Forcella del Pizzon notch. Here Stella Alpina joins the usual summit approach with mark 709.
Ascent to Monte Agnèr ...
It takes place in an exceptional setting, but is far from easy. The most demanding parts are right after the bivouac and there are plenty of cables. This section is also the most attractive part of the ascent with views into endless depth. Higher on the ridge no more protection and so to the summit. It is a great panorama point and you can't marvel enough at how far the view reaches. A longer stop is almost obligatory, if weather cooperates and time doesn't rush.
Descent to the valley ...
To bivouac G. Biasin we descended the ascent path, as there's no other. Watch the red dots and careful walking. The summit ridge is unprotected, the exposure feeling is quite big due to views into the depths. Followed the secured part and soon at the bivouac. From here we descended the mentioned path 709. We were surprised to find that this isn't exactly a stroll either . Almost 1000 m descent on rocky slope where you must constantly watch the right direction and foot placement. Protections appear only in the final part. Rocks are compact and almost scree-free. You can relax only on meadows far below. From there to hut Rif. Scarpa-Gurekian not far. From it we went down to valley on steep path 711 next to old chairlift trace. Quickly down to village Frassene where we ended great adventure  . More impressions in photo story ...
Some recommendations ...
Essential is good fitness, habit of moving in demanding terrain, shoes with good grip and enough water. Helmet, gloves and gear self-evident, as stable weather. From valley to summit solid 1900 elevation meters to cover, so sleeping in hut Scarpa-Gurekian recommended. Some mountaineer's luck and you'll get more than expected. Our impressions … finger licking good  .
Parking coordinates (village Frassene): 46.2551822N, 11.9844981E
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