| m're 126. 07. 2009 22:17:30 |
After the mountain camp for children and youth at Drežniške Ravne, another jump to the Friulian Dolomites (for me they are Carnians). Goal: the beauty Monte Duranno, company: friend and expert of Karnians and Dolomites Matija.
On Thursday in the evening hours past the village Erat to the starting point along the ''''Peruvian-Bolivian'''' exposed road above the gorge to the end of the road. Along path 374 to Maniago hut, where we slept. Second day early start, first goal forcella Duranno, where in the company of ibexes we breakfasted and put on our climbing harnesses and necessary gear. Path - direction marked with pitons - goes first under, along the ridge then turns along the long ledge into the heart of the south face of Duranno to the central ''''channel''''-gully, which cuts through the entire wall. Here climbing begins: first a couple of pitches right beside the channel then turns into the channel itself and follows it to the cirque under the Summit. Through easier slabs and quite exposed ridge we reach the top. In the summit book only a few pages are filled, although the first entry in it is from 2004.
Descent along the same route, at the hardest spots (4-5) we abseil on rope. On the long ledge we meet ibex alpha male - ''''boss'''', who calmly hops in front of us as if wanting to show where the easiest path goes.
Follows quick descent from the saddle to the hut and after lunch along the already known path 374 to the car.
Trip highlights: beautiful hills, wilderness, friendly hut staff, solitude (on the entire trip we met one person and some hut visitors). Recommend to all who are used to moving roped and/or solo climbing III. grade and rappelling. Anchors are arranged - bolts, here and there also a piton. Snowfields on the path are there, but can be completely avoided, so winter gear can stay home.
The trip is otherwise (except the initial part of serious climbing) well described in the book by A.Mašer: Dolomites - dream mountains. Whoever knows Italian can find something on the net too.
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