| Tadej Bolta20. 11. 2018 01:53:26 |
Prijakt consists of two peaks - Hoher (high) 3064m and Niederer (low) 3056m. Between the peaks rises a very pronounced steep and narrow gully, through which the Nordrinne route (500m, M4 - rating on planetmountain) runs. Over the wall itself there are a few more routes that have been frequently climbed in recent days due to excellent conditions. Prijakt is one of the most attractive mountains in the so-called Schober range, which rises above the Austrian town of Lienz. If there is no snow under the mountain, the approach is very easy. You can drive the car almost to 2100m high, so it's only an hour's approach to the route entry. With Urban we left the car a bit lower, at the official parking lot, where we also bivied, and the approach to the wall extended to about three hours.
The entry into the route a bit resembles the entry into the Gully on Skuta. Around 80° steep consolidated snow, which takes you about 20m into the gully. Follows about 500m ascent up the gully of 60° incline, which is evenly interspersed with nicely filled jumps (80-90°). Like climbing Teranova, only all this happens in the wonderful ambience of a narrow and steep gully. Not to mention the fantastic conditions - squeaky snow from bottom to top! The only real jump was 90° thin and slightly rotten ice, where we belayed on rope for a few meters.
Upon exiting the gully we had ten minutes to the summit, from which opened a wonderful view of the Hohe Tauern. At the summit warm sun and practically no wind awaited us! We descended via the SW ridge, which due to crampons, mix of large rocks, grass and snow patches, was a bit awkward. After good nine hours we thus reached the car. What an overture to winter!
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