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Schiara

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mirank27. 06. 2011 17:12:44
With my better half we are driving to Belluno and the starting point a few km above the town already on Saturday afternoon. The path to the 7th alpine hut isn't too steep and runs mostly in the shade along the stream, so no shortage of water. After 2.5h of not very fast hiking we are at the destination just right for dinner. The hut is old but the caretaking couple is caring and friendly, so staying there is really nice. The ascent to the summit we continued on Sunday morning with a half-hour climb over pastures. At Porton (stone gate) the Zacchi ferrata starts to the Gusela del Vescova monolith (2h). There the next ferrata Berti begins which brings us to the top in 1h. We had luck with the weather, so we stayed half an hour at the summit admiring the view on the Dolomites (otherwise top parts of highest peaks in fog here and there) and Carnia, and in the distance we saw known outlines of Montaž and Viš; everything else towards the Julians harder to recognize from here. Well, the return was ferrata-spiced too and after 7h we were back at the hut for coffee. Walk from there to the car - under 2h doesn't count anymore, as it goes on mulattiera. On the whole path we didn't step on snow anywhere although there's still some in the gullies. Ferratas are exemplarily equipped and such length and difficulty as we don't have at home. Out of 7h on three ferratas more than 60% in slings!!
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bagi29. 08. 2025 10:07:57
Last year we did the Dolomites Alta Via 1 trail and then first time entered the Schiara massif (here). We descended via Marmol ferrata, admiring the wild surroundings. It immediately attracted us and we knew we'd return. It happened this year, just over a year after the previous visit. With some homework I managed to make a loop that turned out to be a demanding and long treat nasmeh. Plan was ... parking - Rif. 7°Alpini hut - Zacchi ferrata - Berti ferrata – Schiara summit - return via Berti ferrata then Sperti ferrata - sleep in hut. Besides planned, two surprises happened that spiced up the day velik nasmeh.

Start was Case Bortot hamlet above Belluno, above which free parking at around 700m. Can park about 30 cars but fills quick. From there we continued on comfortable wide path to Rif. 7°Alpini hut. Reminds of military mule track but apparently always for supplying the hut and Belluno water supply. Path is quite long, about 7km.

In hut short break and chat with caretakers, then headed to the wall. Mighty portal in rock mass marks Marmol ferrata entrance far away, shares initial part with Zacchi ferrata. At least last year. New thing is new route for Marmol ferrata that smells D category and crumbly as hell. Officially not open yet, where we missed old variant not clear to me zmeden. As punishment we had to do longer traverse of old variant to Zacchi entrance, which they'll saw off soon per latest info.

Zacchi is great old school ferrata. Uses natural passages, protections at key spots. Lots of ladders, all additionally secured per latest rules i.e. parallel cable. Same higher at very interesting old holds right before famous Gusela del Vescovà tower. Visible from afar, ferrata brings almost to it.

Almost because before it new ferrata branches to Schiara summit, now Berti. More modestly equipped with lots of free, exposed ascent and for us later descent. On it quite hard overhanging passage to upper level on old ladder about 5m high. Here need time to think, then quickly change safety set. Continuation mix of free walking and along cables up to summit. From here can continue to Marmol ferrata or return to Sperti ferrata entrance.

And that was our way. Past Ugo Dalla Bernardina bivouac and Gusela del Vescovà tower we entered second surprise. Sperti ferrata fully renovated and open only since last year, 2024. Many parts new route not fully old path. Rare marks show sometimes turn elsewhere. Ferrata impeccably equipped and safely brings to valley. But how it brings ... environment extremely wild and mighty walls around make you tiny. Primordial and adrenaline velik nasmeh. Difficulty eases at next bivouac, renovated Sperti. Follows awkward descent on steep overgrown path that seems endless. Lower some protections, then spotted hut where we slept. Outer renovated, inside still waiting. From memory only hut with *squat toilets* instead of WC bowls, privacy in toilets not much. Next day just return to start. More in photo story ...

WARNINGS ...

For described loop some warnings. Whole extremely long tour with many demanding sections. We from parking to return to hut incl all ferratas and Schiara took good 12 hours, so better sleep in hut first and do ferratas next day. Summer heat during our visit contributed, walls mostly sunny side. Water runs out quick, better take more than too little. Drinking water in trough by hut.

One peculiarity of these ferratas to mention, hard to understand: marks. Very old, faded, often barely visible. Even in good visibility sometimes hard to find continuation, not thinking fog. Especially renovated Sperti. Ferrata all new, rare ancient marks. GPS hard helps here, few meters left/right leads wrong. Careful in poor visibility.

Start coordinates (Case Bortot): 46.1831597N, 12.1955850E
Parking above Case Bortot is already partially occupied early.1
We start with first light, since a long day lies ahead.2
Brand new bench calling for a moment of rest :)3
Wide path to hut reminds of military mulatjera4
But that's not the case. It was built to supply the hut and water pipeline for Belluno.5
Scenery as cool as it gets and the first sun greets us. Later I would be more grateful for clouds6
Hut Rif. 7° Alpini from 19507
New markings. Ferrata Marmol is also part of Alta Via 1, while Ferrata Zacchi branches off earlier8
Famous rock portal *Porton*. To its right is the entrance to the ferrata9
Ferratas in this range are basically older style, but we also encountered two new ones :)10
The start is the same as last year, but we complicated the continuation somewhere :)11
The cables suddenly go vertical. Hmm ???12
And here we two crawled last year with heavy backpacks ??13
Hello, something doesn't add up. Some details are on the edge of D category…14
Now we are really surprised. We find ourselves on the old link between the ferratas, across the passage is red tape15
Oh, we exited the ferrata completely elsewhere. Entrance to Zacchi is on that ridge...16
Cross path. Cables on both sides and they will probably cut this connection17
This should happen due to harder maintenance, although all protections are flawless18
If it really happens that way, such details will no longer be passable. How descent via AV1 will be is another question19
Finally we crawl to the Zacchi ferrata…20
Official marker is 50321
Passages are natural, stemples help over some jumps22
Cables are old school, not necessarily tensioned23
Uff, interesting :). Up there stemple upon stemple…24
The most attractive and demanding part of Zacchi begins25
Wall becomes almost vertical, route still follows nice hiking ledges.26
Ascent neither end nor edge...27
Demanding traverse. Put on safety sets.28
Below us only abyss remains…29
View from top reveals exposure. Via ferrata does not exceed C category despite that.30
View down the route's course…31
Follows short passage on overgrown trail.32
Then comes a beautiful finale. In the background is the tower of Gusela del Vescovà visible from everywhere.33
Look back. Unusual guides up to two meters long are hammered into the wall.34
Hardly have we finished the Zacchi via ferrata when the Berti follows, leading to the top of Schiara.35
Small surprise, the introduction has quite a bit of free climbing.36
You have to fight your way to the steel cables first.37
The hardest part today. The strongly overhanging ladder requires thought and quick crossing.38
It's hard to show in the photo, but it all looks roughly like this...39
Once upon a time...40
Higher up, free climbing alternates with protections at the harder spots.41
Even up here the difficulty doesn't let up.42
The summit section is again free climbing, partly even completely normal walking.43
Victory :)44
Me too :) The heat is cooking us quite a bit, which is a surprise for this altitude.45
The descent follows the same path, as we will continue on the Sperti via ferrata.46
The bivouac is already in sight. A little more and the descent from the top will be completed.47
Bivouac Ugo Dalla Bernardina at an extremely attractive location.48
The interior is spartan, but offers comfortable shelter in this wild environment.49
After a longer break, we continue along the narrow path.50
View back at the bivouac.51
Gusela del Vescovà presents itself...52
The famous tower is only about 40 m high, but there are still memorial plaques beneath it.53
Continuation. The path is clearly visible, almost no markers.54
Start of the renovated Sperti via ferrata, opened only in 2024.55
The route plunges into the wilderness right away. The steel cables are taut as strings.56
There are also some old aids, but most of them have been sawn off.57
Attractive. For a while we scramble down, then up again...58
Some sections require clipping in.59
The rock is good, footholds and handholds reliable.60
Brand new route. The old variant ran elsewhere.61
The rock in the Schiara group is darker in color, quite different from the central Dolomites.62
Never seen before. SOS phones with location points along the path. This one is at Forcella Sperti.63
From here it goes only steeply downhill...64
The wilderness is absolute. We are squeezed between huge massifs.65
The descent is demanding, but this via ferrata does not exceed category C.66
Deep, deep we go...67
A touch of life, though I don't know how they find space to live.68
We descended a long time, finally reaching the next bivouac.69
Interior of Sperti bivouac.70
View back. We descended the walls behind it.71
The continuation is an overgrown little path.72
Something small is still secured, but the main part is behind us.73
Beginning or end, as you pitch it.74
Tired, we continue the descent. The heat scorched us the most.75
The caretakers are a couple from Trieste. We have known each other since last year.76
The map shows only the ferratas and the summit. The entire route of that day was 13 km and 2200 elevation gain.77
(+11)like
mosovnik29. 08. 2025 10:50:24
Eh, Bagi, you already know that. You two are aces, example for posting events, you are....!!!velik nasmeh
All the best on your adventures wherever they happen and enjoy yourselves velik nasmeh
(+3)like
panda29. 08. 2025 11:01:19
Sincere congratulations to both nasmeh You guys are tireless mežikanje
(+3)like
bagi30. 08. 2025 05:27:02
Thanks, thanks, after Karnian we had to change the ambience a bit nasmeh
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