Sexten Dolomites - via ferrata Campanile Colesei (Bepi Martini)
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| bagi18. 10. 2023 13:18:41 |
Always looking for new routes and this time we stumbled upon something really fresh  . This is the via ferrata Campanile Colesei, also called Bepi Martini, year 2020. It's located near the more famous Rotwand, its difficulty revolves around C/D, or rather D category. The via ferrata actually has two one-way variants in the summit section, both extremely interesting.
We reached the via ferrata from Passo Monte Croce. There are now three organized parking lots there, all requiring payment. Roadside variants are gravelled, so no more free parking. At the Kreuzberg Monte Croce hotel we looked for path 15, later 124 and we were already at the start.
Right away we had to climb over a steep and high wall. Here we tested the rock quality a bit, which is unanimously … excellent. The sole holds, the hand has grip, no crumbling. We progressed quickly through variously difficult passages, more or less steeply upwards. Some details are equipped, but there are enough aids for progression. The most attractive and also hardest part of the via ferrata is at the Campanile Colesei tower. The right variant goes over the top and is C/D difficulty, the bypass is D on descent. Compared to many similar via ferratas it didn't seem that demanding to us, but it's a matter of individual perception. After descending the tower there's an ascent up the opposite wall and at the slope break the via ferrata ends.
After visiting the nearby summit Croda Sora I Colesei we continued to via ferrata Zandonelli and Rotwand. We knew Zandonelli from before and it's one of the nicer via ferratas, which shouldn't be underestimated. It has two branches, southern and southeast. Only the southern variant is well marked, no signs visible for the other. After the via ferrata we were soon in the summit section and Rotwand wasn't far. Followed a descent on old military paths to the valley. More in the photo story ...
Coordinates of starting point (Monte Croce Pass): 46.6560339N, 12.4202039E
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| bbugari119. 10. 2023 20:10:48 |
Great, but no. 36 and the signpost for Passo della Sentinella to the right are unclear to me, namely in the same direction as for the ferrata on Cima Dieci? Isn't the path to Passo della Sentinella to the left here?
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| bagi20. 10. 2023 07:59:35 |
@bbugari1 ... between photo 37 and 38 there is another intersection (photo). There you turn to Passo della Sentinella.
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| bbugari120. 10. 2023 09:21:27 |
Does that mean there's also some scrambling on the way to Passo della Sentinella (no. 37)?
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| bagi20. 10. 2023 09:33:35 |
Yes, from picture 36 to that junction there are some cables, nothing particularly difficult (B). Further on I don't know, because I haven't gone through that passage yet.
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| bbugari120. 10. 2023 12:31:19 |
Yes, thanks bagi, I think the lower junction to the via ferrata is a bit before no. 36.
If it exists at all...
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| bagi20. 10. 2023 13:16:02 |
@bbugari1 ... if you mean the other, lower variant of Zandonella, then there are no official markings. Not even trodden, because I was looking for that junction the whole time  .
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| jax20. 10. 2023 16:40:01 |
Yes, from picture 36 to that junction there are some cables, nothing particularly difficult (B). Further on I don't know, because I haven't gone through that passage yet.
Further on there's a horrible landslide area where they almost lose the path every year and it's closed for a few weeks until they make a quasi-path over that sand again. Technically nothing special.
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| jax20. 10. 2023 16:41:14 |
@bbugari1 ... if you mean the other, lower variant of Zandonella, then there are no official markings. Not even trodden, because I was looking for that junction the whole time big grin.
As far as I understand, Zandonella is meant as a loop clockwise. From the top down you'll also see the path to the lower variant nicely. What it's like, I can't tell you, because I also decided up there to descend to the South Tyrolean side, because that makes a nicer loop.
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| bagi20. 10. 2023 17:43:54 |
@jax ... maybe it's really meant as clockwise, but it's also true that even up top I didn't notice any direction signs for the descent variant. All I saw was an ancient inscription under the summit rocks, which points towards some iron gates. The access to them was carried away by landslide. I didn't explore more, so that remains for next time .
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| mirank20. 10. 2023 20:36:09 |
A few years ago we descended there from Sentinella pass. I remember the junction for Zandonello a bit lower from the saddle, when we're already scrambling through the landslide Vallon di Popera. At the little lake we then turned left towards Crodi sora e colisei from where we descended directly to Kreutzenpass.
Congrats bagi for two new tours in Sexten it'll be necessary to go back there sometime.
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| bagi21. 10. 2023 17:08:12 |
@mirank ... thanks for the congrats . That first junction for Zandonello after Sentinella saddle is also the only marked one and that's the one we climbed (picture 36).
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| bbugari123. 10. 2023 11:38:23 |
No picture 36, but the picture from post 20.10. 
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