| pohodnik33314. 08. 2023 13:15:11 |
Trip on 11.8.2023.
The mountain is in the NE part of Sexten Dolomites group, Tabacco map 010.
Description is for approach from South side, where there is circular ferrata Zadonella.
There is one description for this mountain, but from S side, which is a bit easier and can't add pics. One unmarked summit is cca 30m higher (Crota Rossa di Sestro), probably no problem to climb it.
Approach, ascent from East side must be quite uncomfortable due to marathon scree slope combined with quite big incline. At western side scree is probably shorter, but there are some B-C sections. I approached from South, SW direction - ferrata Strada degli Alpini, which is long and exposed. If approaching from W side, from pass Passo Della Sentinella(2717m) ferrata doesn't start right away, need to go down some meters, cca 50m descent.
Path, ferrata C-D ladders is long and tough. A bit harder than Kopiščarjeva on Prisojnik and demanding sections 1.5-2x longer. Reminds partly of ferrata to Češka koča, without that D-E section, but this is longer with more tough sections. And need to go both directions.
Many tough sections and both directions are demanding, long, left and right.
Now which is harder variant for approach and easier for descent hard to say, in my opinion quite equal.
Description is for ascent on left side of ferrata, descent on right.
Well equipped, no problem, where needed it's secured. No smooth walls, for feet mostly places to step, excellent dolomitic rock with enough holds, climbing grips useful.
View excellent, almost three-thousander.
Sharp mountain, demanding, conquered peak rewards effort. Probably hardest ferrata in central Sexten Dolomites group, or at least one of the hardest.
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