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List of forums / Italy / Dolomites / Tofana di Mezzo - Tofana di Dentro, circular route

Tofana di Mezzo - Tofana di Dentro, circular route

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andrejp16. 08. 2012 10:21:21
Still on Tuesday 14.8. we moved from Dibona hut and slept at Pomades hut, which is at 2305 altitude.
For info, breakfast in huts is usually at 7h, but you can arrange and they prepare breakfast in the evening and it waits for you in the morning. So we ate on Wednesday 15.8. at 6h and left the hut at 6.30, to be first at ferrata G. Oliveri at P. Anna. This ferrata is a bit harder than Lipella, but nicely routed. In between we climbed also to Bus de Tofana and continued the path to the top of Tofana di Mezzo. Short rest at upper gondola station then we headed back to the top. A little below the top the path branches right to Tofana di Dentro. The path is secured and routed along nice ledge to the saddle between Tofanas. Descent is approx 150m. From saddle secured path nicely leads to the top. The mentioned path was easier than the one done so far. From the top we descended via scree to bivak Baracca and further to saddle, where path turns right to intermediate gondola station on Tofana di Mezzo. On Tabacco 03 map this part is marked as ferrata, but it's nicely routed path with wire only on some parts. To Vales hut (intermediate gondola station) path is on scree. Path then continues with climb to saddle, along ski slope, where ferrata Oliveri starts, which brought us to our starting point, Pomades hut. Then descent to car and back to Ljubljana.
For info, breakfast+dinner+sleep=45€. Shower-coin=4€.

Super day, super weather, super circular route. In guidebook it's written that route takes 11h.

A and J
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(+3)like
bagi27. 09. 2023 13:24:00
Ferratas G. Olivieri / G. Aglio / Formenton / descent Ra Valles via 407 / Sentiero Olivieri

Tofana di Mezzo and Tofana di Dentro have such beautiful approaches that we visited them also this year. Last year we planned to hike all three ferratas and return circular via Ra Valles to start, but closed descent path 407 strongly changed plans. This year we didn't plan these variants at all, but it twisted differently again nasmeh.

About our ascent to Tofanas I wrote a lot in some other thread (here), so this time shorter. Ferratas G. Olivieri, G. Aglio and Formenton are some of the nicest in Dolomites and hard to tire of them. They go mostly on sunny side, where rocks glow in warm color and ascent is pure pleasure. But they are long, serious and demanding, big challenge for every hiker.

Something completely unexpected was descent on path 407 from top of Tofana di Dentro. Just at break on this top a hiker with poles came from mentioned direction, we were totally surprised. He assured us that this path was not closed and more hikers coming behind. Short consult and we decided for descent in this direction ...

Really met some more hikers, one even with dog. But something else showed. Bit lower thousands of cubic meters of rocks barely waiting to crash to valley. In ridge part wide crack length some ten meters, which one winter will trigger and strongly change look of this mountain part. Also not true that direction not closed. From Ra Valles clear warnings and stone barriers over path, unfortunately not from Tofana side. In short ... path 407 closed and will stay so long, esp. when top part breaks. Fall zone on lower screes, rest of path elsewhere.

But mentioned path very nice and basically military access to top. Incredibly well routed and often we wondered where and how velik nasmeh. At some harder spots wires help, elsewhere careful steps. In top part path already many places collapsed and newly trodden, destructive power of shrapnel noticeable. Fate of path 407 unknown, we surely enjoyed it nasmeh.

To hut Rif. Pomades returned via another interesting path named Sentiero Oliveri. This on site marked as ferrata and rightly so. Passages not easy, mostly secured. Lots of wires, also ladders, serious terrain and atmosphere doesn't let up until scree just before hut Rif. Pomades. There we also spiked sausage and returned in top gear to start at hut Dibona.

Coordinates of start (hut Rif. Dibona): 46.532784, 12.070125
Towards the Rif. Dibona hut there was no traffic, so we parked still in the dark.1
Sleepy view in the direction of Tofana di Rozes. It's early, the scarlet colors won't come for a long time.2
The first sunbeams catch us above the Rif. Pomedes hut.3
This via ferrata doesn't officially exist, but it is simpler and more understandable. The official name is via ferrata G. Olivieri.4
Entry section. The warm rock colors relax and it's a joy to climb in such surroundings.5
Traverse soon above the entry. In this part the rock is excellent, progress is easy.6
The path soon shoots steeply upwards...7
Tofana di Rozes. We visited the beauty yesterday.8
Ascent follows ascent, some free climbing, some on protections.9
One of the more photogenic points. Good I don't get the photo model's bill :)10
Follows a shaded ascent, which with this year's high temperatures is most welcome.11
Punta Anna, which we have just crossed.12
Attractive section of the G. Aglio via ferrata. The route rises and runs exactly along the ledge.13
View of the same section from the other side...14
And another view ahead. This section is very beautiful and not particularly demanding.15
The continuation along the ledges is a bit more serious, everything well protected.16
The passage between the rocks, however, is unprotected and not overly exposed.17
Immediately after it follows a more difficult section where the shoe tends to slip on the polished rock.18
The transition to the ledge also requires more attention, but the continuation is easier.19
All the way to this marker. From here on, some more difficult sections follow.20
One of the hardest, but certainly the most attractive passage …21
Continuation of the same passage …22
And exit from it. A breather follows …23
Along the ledges we circle some towers, the path width is adequate.24
On the bulging wall in the middle of the picture, ladders are visible. There comes another of the more difficult parts of the path.25
Before that, however, follows an unsecured and exposed descent over a steep scree slope, where you eagerly await the cable.26
Follows some more ascent …27
And some humility :)28
We have to go up there. Exposed and serious.29
The renovated cables and old pegs are helpful.30
Next is an extremely exposed traverse where there are enough pegs for progression.31
Exit from the smooth walls.32
We are already at the huge window. The path goes straight through it.33
Immediately behind it are two renovated ladders that help across the first part of the smooth wall.34
Ahead only manual propulsion. Feet and shoes provide the friction.35
Another interesting passage, knobby rock of various textures.36
View back. No special difficulties, rock grips excellently, plenty of good holds.37
Back at the ladders, just these are getting on in years :)38
Exit and direction where we have to go.39
In continuation all free climbing. Almost no protection to the top.40
But everything is well marked and in nice weather hard to get off track.41
Tofana di Mezzo, shared only with the Korean :)42
Below summit path for gondola riders and our turnoff to Tofana di Dentro.43
Already descending to saddle Forcella Tofana. Landslide took part of path, now rebuilt.44
Glacial pond below. There in 2021 we descended to Rif. Giussani hut. Unforgettable, not for repeating :)45
Ferata Formentor and crossing numerous ledges in first part.46
Reaches C difficulty category, but well protected due to heavy traffic.47
Soon pitches up towards the summit.48
Cable follows cable, space for meeting is sufficient.49
In some parts cable is quite loose, but not bothersome.50
Towards the summit ...51
Tofana di Dentro, also Tofana de Inze, Tofana III, Tofana Terza ... and us of course :)52
View back on Tofana di Mezzo.53
This hiker with poles in hands changed our continuation :)54
Assures us path 407 is open, no closure signs. Short talk and we go…55
We really meet hikers from that direction and even one with a dog.56
To my great surprise, I spot a crevasse tens of meters long right below the ridge. Hmmm ....57
It's not further ahead, the path goes elsewhere and so we continue among numerous cornices.58
I quickly realize that this descent is routed through military positions and is actually an old military connection.59
In many places it is collapsed and newly dug out.60
In the former military shelter, the emergency bivouac Baracca degli Alpini is arranged.61
The path continues almost to the top of Cima Formenton, then turns sharply right.62
In front of us are two Hungarians who are surprisingly well-equipped :)63
Path 407 is incredibly well-routed and gently descends through an apparently impassable world.64
At the end of the wild world, a passage through the rock follows, then the landscape changes.65
Chute onto which thousands of cubic meters of scree from the summit ridge will collapse.66
At the end of the traverse we find an unequivocal message about the closure of path 407.67
We continue above the intermediate station of the gondola with the Ra Valles hut.68
We will return to the Rif. Pomedes hut along the Sentiero Olivieri path, which was already marked lower as a ferrata.69
That's quite right. There are many protections and some passages are not exactly easy.70
However, they are mostly newly arranged here too, which is almost the rule around Cortina d'Ampezzo anyway.71
Today there is no end or edge to such and various protections :)72
We are surprised by the demanding nature of this path and the seriousness of the terrain it passes through.73
It continues from one gully to the next, each visible only right around the bend :)74
Familiar terrain. Soon we will be at the Rif. Pomedes hut.75
The time is already such that the chairlift no longer runs. There are not many people at the hut either.76
We are advancing quickly towards the starting point. Just a few nasty traverses of the scree slope and soon we will be there.77
The sleeping area of the Rif. Dibona hut. There are still quite a few cars, but noticeably fewer than in the morning.78
GPS track of the walked path. Altogether it came to 13 km and 1700 elevation meters.79
(+11)like
panda28. 09. 2023 07:57:20
you two never run out. Congratsnasmeh
(+3)like
LidijaJesih28. 09. 2023 14:31:09
Awesome, really!nasmeh
(+3)like
nenap28. 09. 2023 16:00:32

Yeah good Dolomites " fight "
Congrats for all feats velik nasmeh
(+3)like
bagi29. 09. 2023 18:16:10
Thanks and best regards from Dolomites nasmeh Nice weather lured us back to these beautiful places. No more crowds, no snow either, temperatures like early September.
(+1)like
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