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Tofana di Rozes

miranm8. 08. 2019 10:55:03

Hello,
I'm interested in the condition of the path on the mentioned ferrata - Via ferrata Lipella (snow, cables,..).
Best,
Miran nasmeh

mirank8. 08. 2019 20:22:42

What snow? The cables, where they are, are fine. If ferrata climbing is not foreign to you, then all is clear. The path itself is not among the harder ones, but quite long; descent via normale is more than half shorter than ascent.

palček plezalček8. 08. 2019 20:48:45

https://www.guidedolomiti.com/en/ferrate-open-closed/

(+2)

mirank8. 08. 2019 21:13:02

One more; for coming days with high temperatures this is the right choice. To avoid main rush suggest start from Dibona at least 7am, so that walk to entrance in Castelletto under south wall you do in sun, then in cavern and nice time on west wall in shade. Count ca 7h for whole tour; can stretch too, since from summit don't wanna go down mežikanje

miranm9. 08. 2019 07:12:08

Thanks for info. nasmeh

Trobec26. 08. 2019 18:02:33

Not quite current, path probably hasn't changed anyway nasmeh

But I assume that the snowfield I mentioned in the report is gone.

http://trobec.blogspot.com/2019/08/dolomiti-21-2672019.html

(+2)

rok.si27. 08. 2019 21:30:03

14.8., when I was hiking there, there was still a snow patch and hard as concrete in the morning, but it could be bypassed from below, which we did.
We had a similar impression of the route as you - the first part to Tre Dita over the ledges was super, wonderful views and varied exciting path. The upper part was noticeably more demanding and quite vertical, more drawn with a ruler than along natural passages, it rained the previous night, so wet rock didn't exactly ease the path.
We were quite glad for the end of the cables and the warm sunshine on the shoulder, where the shady Via Lipella joins the normal route.

(+1)

Branee28. 08. 2019 07:05:45

If you turned back at the junction (left, instead of the scree ledge right) you missed a big part of the climbing pleasure, exactly the most interesting. And Via Lipella continues from there, up

rok.si28. 08. 2019 08:21:57

No, I meant the end of Via Lipella at ca 3000 meters, where the summit pyramid appears. Junction at Tre Dita - left hut, right ledge. We went further along the ledge nasmeh

(+3)

fjr25. 07. 2020 18:12:06

Hi. Does anyone maybe know if Lipella is already passable without winter gear. And of course the summit of Tofana?

AlesSLO25. 07. 2020 19:28:10

Hi. Here you have all the information: https://www.guidedolomiti.com/en/ferrata-open-closed/

(+1)

fjr27. 07. 2020 08:08:21

Thanks Ales.

haridautovic2. 08. 2020 11:29:47

28.7.2020/Tofana di Rozes/3225m/
On the descent from Preber/Preberspitze we were thinking, where now?? and the idea was born,,,Dolomites,,,everything else is just a game anyway. Since everything in the Dolomites starts at Lake Misurina, we stopped briefly at the lake and continued to Cortina d'Ampezzo. For the starting point we chose Rifugio Dibona, but by mistake arrived at Pie Tofana (4-seater) under Tofana di Mezzo, never mind we said and took bike path no. 405 to the road to Rifugio Dibona on path 403 to the hut, wasted one hour so what, important the weather is beautiful, and we two in good mood....

along the bike path under the ski slope no. 405

we are already on the road leading to the hut, partly on asphalt no. 403

after one hour we are already at the hut — at/on Rifugio Angelo Dibona.

We continue towards the Rifugio Giussani hut.

A nice path leads all the way to the hut.

Hut at 2600 m a.s.l. — Rifugio Giussani 2600 m.

View from the hut to our goal — Tofana di Rozes.

The path goes along rocky ledges, snow patches, wet rocks, in short it requires great caution.

We are already on the ridge where the ferrata path joins.

The view towards the summit on the large snowfield properly worried us.

This is already a more demanding snowfield, we risked it / most turned back here.

Here before the snowfield we met a young couple from Slovenia, they said they wouldn't risk it and turned back like the other 70% of hikers who didn't dare go further,, honestly, if it doesn't go, it doesn't,,

We made it to the top, met one Italian couple,, then had the summit to ourselves for a whole hour, incredible, perfect weather, couldn't wish for better,, — Tofana di Rozes.

From the top, below they are making a new ski area under Cinque Torri.

View of Tofana di mezzo and Punta aglio.

We had Tofana to ourselves for a whole hour.

Left Punta Penia-Marmolada-right Piz Boè, below Lagazuoi, Sass di Stria and Passo di Falzarego.

Former hut destroyed by avalanche-Rifugio Cantore.

View from Rifugio Dibona hut towards Tofano.

Here we went towards Rifugio Duca d'Aosta hut - path 405 - Cycling.

Past the hut above the ski slope and under the cable car to Tofano di Mezzo, descent to Pie Tofana, to the starting point.

Below Cortina dAmpezzo, right in the background Monte Antelao, known as the king of the Dolomites, is with 3264 meters the highest peak in the eastern Dolomites.

Here we started - Pie Tofana — at Baita Piè Tofana.

(+4)

Janezs17. 09. 2020 10:42:47

We start walking from Dibona, on path 403 on nice mule track, to Giussani hut. Further the path is more demanding, lots of scree and marked with rare blue markers. Cairns help. Towards summit gets quite steep. Return same way.

bagi26. 09. 2020 16:19:57

Warm autumn was perfect for a nice tour where higher temperatures are quite important. For goal we chose Tofana di Rozes, Lipella route, start Dibona.

Ferrata where from technique only cable helps, route where countless natural holds assist. Routed left, right on ledges, scrambling on natural passages allows enjoyable progress to goal. Adrenalin rises, excitement too, soul growls velik nasmeh

. You can protect on all harder spots, but ferrata absolutely not for everyone. In cold mornings shows its teeth. Many wet sections turn to icy trap, cables and steps freeze. Hardest detail in upper part mostly wet and slippery by nature, ice raises difficulty one grade higher. Careful then and with proper gear.

We had luck due to unusually high temps nasmeh

. From water abundance only small waterfall soaked us, no ice anywhere. Ferrata gloves we removed preventively several times due to water, wet not much good. Except two fast locals we had whole ferrata to ourselves. Unbelievable zmeden

. Some ice only on scree just below summit. More in photo story ...

From Tofana descended normal route to excellent Giussani hut. Everywhere full of small details showing caring hands. How not, hut run by same family for decades. Prices low for area. Half board with membership card only 45 €, nearby private huts up to 75 €. Descent from saddle excellently arranged. Where once trail over scree, now real *highway*. Goska visit now suitable for everyone.

In conclusion ... excellent, impeccably maintained ferrata on nice 3000er, but must be up to it due to exposure and length.

Coordinates start (parking at Dibona): 46.532784, 12.070132

First morning signpost for Lipello ... path 442

Surprise ... no one anywhere, although there were quite a few cars at Dibona

The sun rose later every day, autumn is coming in through the big door

That's also why the Tofanas are called *di Rozes*

Entrance to the Cassttelleto galleries, prelude to Lipello

The galleries are of military origin from the first war, as in many other places around here

The passage through the tunnel is beautifully arranged with metal steps and steel cables

Here to the right is our direction ... Lipella ferrata

Immediately after the exit from the galleries there is still some scree with a secured path

From here on time will pass much faster than usual :)

A little more stretching, oops ... stretching :)

Here a shower in the form of a little waterfall takes care of overheated heads

Section of path on ledges. Not difficult, but downward views not for everyone

We're one storey higher again. Below is part of the path already traversed

Another look at the ledge traversing. We came from the left

Black rock means moisture, ice at low temperatures.

We preferred to remove gloves at wet traverses.

Left scree, right treat, i.e. hardest sections.

Flawless cables assist with protection, no other technical aids.

Only two fast Italians sped past us, we had everything else to ourselves :)

This is how it goes, ferrata not for everyone.

For bonus package rock wet and slippery in hardest sections.

Some mists lingered around the summit but soon dispersed.

Mists went elsewhere, replaced by wonderful views.

Classic approach from Giussani hut. Like a bus station :)

Descent to Goska is a chapter apart. Thousand directions, none straight :)

Very nice hut, long managed by same family.

This mountaineer awaits us already on the path to the hut.

Terrace, many people come only this far.

Has experience, doesn't even need handholds :)

Day guests must not enter the hut without a mask, in the evening it is not quite so strict.

Dedicated to Giussani, after whom the hut is named.

The hut is also exceptionally beautiful inside, full of charming details.

This is just one of many ... hanger for poles.

Old, lower-lying Cantore hut, former military post.

The descent is now beautifully arranged.

A little lower it turns into a wide path, suitable even for some motorization.

Already at the lower signposts. In this area they are mostly wooden.

GPS track of the hiked path. It recorded 12 km and 1400 m elevation gain.

(+11)

Nejc78726. 09. 2020 19:46:56

Great! Documentary style, nice photos, lots of info.
Congrats on the tour and best wishes.

(+2)

bagi26. 09. 2023 12:31:01

Rif. Dibona hut - Lipella via ferrata - Tofana di Rozes - Rif. Giussani hut - starting point

We decided to revisit Lipella on the ascent via Tomasella the previous day. Both via ferratas run on the north side and we quickly realized that high temperatures are ideal also for visiting Tofana. Lipella is indeed shady, serious, moreover often wet in places and due to absence of ice we wanted to take advantage of these conditions.

I described the via ferrata in detail in the previous post, so this time only about the current state. All fixed protections are in excellent condition, the path is well marked, in the initial part the red squares are even renewed. The route mostly goes from ledge to ledge, each time to a slightly higher level. There are dubious continuations in many places, seemingly dead-end paths. This time stone barriers were placed on all such dubious spots. You must not continue over them, but look for markings nearby.

We were lucky on the wet parts of the via ferrata too. Longer period of warm weather dried up the streams and we were not subjected to any special refreshment. Ice was not to be expected, so we also had no equipment for such conditions. This time it was also the first time we were extremely satisfied with the shady side of the via ferrata. It successfully hid us from the sun almost to the top and we had absolutely nothing against it velik nasmeh

.

At the summit nothing particularly new. This time we had great weather with fantastic views and there weren't too many people. But crowds were coming from Rif. Giussani hut direction and we descended there too via one of the numerous paths. The hut was full, so we continued straight to Dibona.

A few words about the road to the hut … the gravel part is a rodeo of its own kind, where it's definitely not worth hurrying nasmeh

. The road is passable for all usual types of cars, for taller campers there's a ramp at the start.