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List of forums / Italy / Carnic Alps / Torre Nuviernulis – a delight near Monte Sernia

Torre Nuviernulis – a delight near Monte Sernia

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bagi9. 08. 2017 11:37:55
As two Slovenes wrote recently in the small, already over a decade-old summit logbook on Torre ..... this is the cherry on the cake smile.

It's a beautiful, prominent tower and the ascent to it is really the cherry on top of the cake. Due to its apparent inaccessibility, unfortunately few people bother to go up here, although the route is solidly marked. Faded red dots reliably guide you to the top with a little attention.

There are no major exposures with deep views, just wonderful chimneys following one after another. They are long, steep and several times you wonder if a rope will be needed for descent or not. But the rock is fantastic and you caress it more than grab it. There's no bad feeling about holds anywhere and descent can also be done without a rope. But beware ..... the route is a full grade more demanding than the ascent to Monte Sernio via NW ridge, although it reaches at most a good II.

Ascent to Torre Nuviernulis is best done together with ascent to Monte Sernio. Starting point and first route markers for the tower are at Nuviernulis saddle, a bit further from markers for left or right final descent from Sernia. Sensible connection ( @bagi ) is at …… http://www.hribi.net/trenutnerazmere.asp?ita=1&gorovjeid=27&id=2736

Torre Nuviernulis – a delight near Monte Sernia Initial markings at the Nuviernulis saddle1
Torre Nuviernulis – a delight near Monte Sernia View of the route2
Torre Nuviernulis – a delight near Monte Sernia we'll have to go up there3
Torre Nuviernulis – a delight near Monte Sernia Aha, the first red dot is up there4
Torre Nuviernulis – a delight near Monte Sernia And we have set off on the path.5
Torre Nuviernulis – a delight near Monte Sernia First more serious steps on the rocks. There is not much exposure with deep views.6
Torre Nuviernulis – a delight near Monte Sernia The path crosses to the left of the corner.7
Torre Nuviernulis – a delight near Monte Sernia Now it's getting serious.8
Torre Nuviernulis – a delight near Monte Sernia Steep chimneys follow one after the other.9
Torre Nuviernulis – a delight near Monte Sernia Without the excellent rock we would already run out of ideas for climbing without a rope here.10
Torre Nuviernulis – a delight near Monte Sernia In one word .... wonderful.11
Torre Nuviernulis – a delight near Monte Sernia Just below the summit the chimneys level out into gentler terrain.12
Torre Nuviernulis – a delight near Monte Sernia almost at the summit13
Torre Nuviernulis – a delight near Monte Sernia In the background Monte Sernio.14
Torre Nuviernulis – a delight near Monte Sernia Torre Nuviernulis ... a tower worth every step.15
Torre Nuviernulis – a delight near Monte Sernia At the top there is an old summit logbook, hardly filled out.16
Torre Nuviernulis – a delight near Monte Sernia Surprise ..... Slovenian word in the logbook.17
Torre Nuviernulis – a delight near Monte Sernia View downwards. Far below us winds the descent mule track.18
Torre Nuviernulis – a delight near Monte Sernia The descent still awaits us.19
Torre Nuviernulis – a delight near Monte Sernia Cautiousness is very desirable here.20
Torre Nuviernulis – a delight near Monte Sernia We descend slowly through the chimneys, but no one needs a rope.21
Torre Nuviernulis – a delight near Monte Sernia Foot- and handholds are excellent.22
Torre Nuviernulis – a delight near Monte Sernia Final descent chimney.23
Torre Nuviernulis – a delight near Monte Sernia a little more24
Torre Nuviernulis – a delight near Monte Sernia Here and there we search for the red marks.25
Torre Nuviernulis – a delight near Monte Sernia Well-deserved rest at the end of the path26
Torre Nuviernulis – a delight near Monte Sernia View of Torre Nuviernulis27
(+5)like
journeyman9. 08. 2017 12:08:14
With a colleague we climbed this tower on Monday. We descended via the route shown in the pictures. In the area of picture no. 7 we followed the left variant (also red dots), which is somewhat more difficult than your ascent route. Both variants offer excellent climbing pleasure in good rock. We also climbed Sernio beforehand via NW ridge, then continued on the Sentiero Piero Nobile path to Cimo dai Gjai. From there we descended towards the hut, refilled water supplies, then climbed to bivouac Feruglio. We slept there and continued on the path that circles Grauzaria via Cengle dal Bec and climbed to its summit. From there back to Grauzaria hut and down the valley. Since we had the whole afternoon free we drove to Lonice saddle. After the ferrata we climbed Zermulo and Zuc della Guardio. Beautiful places, and no crowds yet.
Best, Gašper
(+4)like
bagi9. 08. 2017 15:43:39
@journeyman ... we didn't even notice two access variants to Torre. Good idea for next time nasmeh.
But one question. What to expect from Sentiero Piero Nobile to Cimo dai Gjai ??
(+1)like
journeyman9. 08. 2017 18:56:22
@bagi... On the path expect climbing up to grade 2. Definitely recommended to do it reverse to our direction, so you climb all hardest sections up. We had climbing parts at end - descent from Cimo dai Gjai. Rest of path easier. Path description in September 2011 issue of Planinski Vestnik.
Best
(+5)like
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