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Zuc dal Bor

matic426. 06. 2011 10:33:01

In the last few years the summit itself is hard to reach due to landslide in the upper part. Partially a new path is made, without markings. In part of the wall there is a fixed rope, but it looks makeshift. Additional rope belay is highly recommended here as it involves climbing up to III grade (at least that's what it says on the bivouac door). It's really worth climbing the top cone, best view all around from there. We went up via path 428 from Aupa valley past bivouac then along Alta Via ridge path. Ridge path is demanding in places with some easy climbing. Hardest part is of course the final summit bit. From Ljubljana about 2.5 hours drive to start. Very nice tour.

Zuc dal Bor view from the top towards Dunja

Zuc dal Bor view from the top on the ridge path Alta Via

(+1)

svicr9. 09. 2012 23:19:24

From Tarvisio (Pontebba) I drove through Studeno Alto to the hamlet Frattis, where I turned left into the nice valley under Crete di Gleris. I left the car at the ramp. Further on the road is concrete and very unpleasant to walk but luckily the turnoff to path 430 is soon. To Ovčja škrbina (Forc. della Pecora), which I chose, the path is steep and in the upper part gravelly. At the top of the notch I continued on Alta Via C.A.I. Moggio path all the way to bivouac G.Bianchi, then along the ridge section of the same path under the summit part of the mountain. The last part of the ascent to the mountain is the hardest. The summit itself is very crumbly and consequently all ledges in the wall are littered with scree. The rope mentioned by "matic4" in his description is no more. There's only a shorter rope under the wall that helps with climbing over the rocky edge. At the summit all the effort was rewarded with nice views.

notches one after another let through the morning light

steep section of the path below Ovčja škrbina (Forc. della Pecora)

view of neighbouring M. Chiavals and Škrbina Chiavals

western side along which the climbing route leads

(+3)

Keko7. 07. 2013 16:26:59

A few days ago my wife and I received an invitation from Gorenjska for an extremely demanding tour to Zuc dal Bor. We gladly accepted the invitation and so yesterday in a mixed Gorenjska-Styrian group of five members we set off towards this special mountain with an equally special name.
We left the car in the side valley Val Alba, right at the signpost for bivak G. Bianchi, where we headed down across the stream bed and further through the forest to the bivak. To the bivak the path is easy and picturesque. From the bivak onwards the path becomes harder, hands need to be taken out of pockets quickly and used to find reliable holds and show climbing skills. On the way we encounter quite a few difficult spots from walking on exposed ridge, crossing steep grass, to adrenaline descent into the notch and gravelly steep approach to the wall itself under the mountain summit.
The special treat is of course the ascent to the summit itself.
First we come to a jump over which a shorter rope stretches, helping us over this obstacle.
Then the path would surely end if we didn't have our own rope and at least one more experienced person skilled in using it and also somewhat more demanding climbing.
Need to climb a jump that surely represents a good III, but if you're without climbing shoes like us, it gives the feel of a solid IV.
At the summit we struggle to get to the logbook as we barely opened the box. When we open it, we see that no one has signed in this year yet. We didn't stay long at the summit as a group of nine people was already waiting below, who were also from Slovenia and surprisingly also Gorenjci and Štajerci.
After abseiling from the mountain summit and quite demanding descent back the same way, as the entire path requires focus and good concentration, we took a slightly longer break at the bivak for a snack.
All satisfied and happy, we sat on the bench, served from the backpack, gazed at the surrounding peaks and immensely enjoyed the warm sun, as we succeeded in a really nice and unforgettable tour. Ahead of us was only a walk to the car.

Signpost that directed us to the bivouac

Exceptionally well-maintained ford at the crossing point

Picturesque and beautiful path to the bivouac

We planned to return along this path as it was supposed to be easier, but we changed our minds

A little above the bivouac, the first climbing began

No more with hands in pockets, let's say this is I.

Narrow and steep on both sides, not for the vertiginous

When it suddenly appeared, it took our breath away

Here it won't be enough to just take hands out of pockets, it will be serious climbing

No markings ahead, scree and unpleasant access to the wall

First serious jump with the help of a short rope hanging from above

The leader goes ahead to rig the rope for us, here it gets serious

And also the descent which requires quite good concentration

Last look at the protruding rock pile in the middle of the picture

(+7)

svicr27. 09. 2014 12:33:05

Yesterday I fulfilled the promise to relatives to take them to Zuc dal Bor. Weather was cloudy, so no dew, which is very important on steep grass. We went the same path as I did two years ago. Conditions on the path were the same, only the ridge part of Alta Via C.A.I. Moggio was even more damaged and crumbly due to abundant snow last winter. Anchors in the wall are in good condition, but on the ledges there's more and more scree. At the summit the sun even mocked us nasmeh

Crete di Gleris from the village Frattis

Autumn is already creeping through the forest

If there is Ovčja škrbina, then there must also be Ovčja špica

Neighbours ... M. Sernio and Creta Grauzaria

Entrance to the ridge section of the Alta Via C.A.I. Moggio path

Before the rockfall there was a via ferrata here, now ...

(+8)

svicr1. 07. 2016 14:43:53

This time we chose the starting point in the Alba valley. Along the nicely marked path 450 we first descended to the namesake stream, crossed it and continued on the preserved mule track in the cool of the beech forest. On a short flat section the mule track joins path 428, which leads from rifugio Vualt to bivak G. Bianchi. Markings on the Alta Via ridge path are renewed, but that's all they did. The narrow path on steep wet grass required attention at every step. A slight southwest wind was too little to dry the heavy dew and soaked ground. Due to erosion the path is very bad in some places. On the ridge under the summit, where Alta Via starts descending to the southeast side of the mountain, we climbed under the wall. Already the view into the wall tells us the conditions ... the summit is disintegrating more and more each year. With great respect for the holds we climbed to the summit. This time no views from the summit, but joy. After doing the abseil too, we decided to go back to the bivak via another - circular path. Alta Via doesn't let up further on either. Descent to Fonderis notch was equally steep and demanding. We could breathe a bit easier only 500m lower when we reached path 425, which is a well-preserved mule track. To bivak G. Bianchi it runs through numerous gullies under the west face of the mountain.
The demanding part of the tour was behind us, so we rested at the bivak. Snack with views to C. Grauzario was the reward.
To make the loop of the day complete, we went to rifugio Vualt and via forest paths to the car.

In the grass the path branches to the ridge

Path 425 and remains of military facility

View from Fonderis notch to west ridge of Zuc dal Bor and Monte Chiavals

View from bivouac G. Bianchi to Fonderis notch

(+8)

nenap1. 07. 2016 17:39:10

Nice peak and circular path nasmeh

(+1)

rozka10. 07. 2017 21:44:48

I had already sped over Vršič to Žaga (near Bc), where I switch horses and go full throttle to Italy velik nasmeh

...
We drive into Val Alba valley, and the same day continue to Bianchi bivouac.
Sprinkling starts at the car, then almost 2h of thunder, lightning flashes, wind, rain accompany us... at the bivouac, well supposedly bunks for 12, but I can't imagine it, as we 5 couldn't stand inside together and had to pack nicely - sardine style velik nasmeh

Night passed listening to the rain, thoughts drifting to tomorrow: what kind of day, summit ok, wet?... zmeden

Morning, voice persuades "come out", moon, moon, hehe, but too cold overnight, without puffy no go...
After breakfast to today's peak, one impatient jumped to nearby Chiavals first, we warmed at first gully, adrenaline rises at ridge edge, mostly narrow and airy, off-ridge traverse on narrow steep grass. Soon saddle/subpeak, admired wall and "Čuk" summit part. Slight drop, then left to cairn behind edge, already at entry wall to summit. First impression: reverse back to valley zadrega

, but overcame fear, bit into wall and second part before right traverse, quite hard smooth no holds (more than III to me, bivouac says IV+ for that part), got over elegantly somehow, adrenaline did it. Continuation easier but exposed, full caution needed, and yesss on Zuc dal Bor summit velik nasmeh

. Hugs, congrats, breathing again, hehe, meanwhile thought of descent/abseil... after "photo shooting" with all backgrounds, decide for abseil same way to abseil spot, just two steps but such loaded summit never seen, went like on eggshells... then abseil in one go, longest so far, yuhu. Of course circular route, longer but to skip "absurd steepness" (from guidebook, hehe), can't miss it, continue on Via Alti and yes, that descent mix of steep grass, scree and fallen gullies endless, so path too flat nobody could walk normally, hehe. Followed ascent to Fonderis notch, traverse back to bivouac and same way to start.
Tour long and mentally tough despite bivouac sleep, no water on route except 5 min before bivouac, but rewarded with overcome wall, summit and views.
Company pure 10/10, especially rope partner who trusted me to belay him nasmeh

, I sweated most there I think mežikanje

and confirmed, "Idrija-Styria" team performed excellently, hehe

ridge where the cuckoo is already calling

well, some just rest at the narrowest part, hehe

Monte Pisimoni with Muzci in the background

at the sight of the wall, I almost tucked tail between legs and fled to the valley...

we are already ascending towards the Fonderis notch

Fonderis notch... do you see the bivouac?:)))

view from the starting point where the summit cap Čuka is visible

(+14)

funnyboy11. 07. 2017 16:46:27

Rozka has already nicely presented everything, but forgot to mention the best of all: bathing in Tavelika Voda in Resia nasmeh

We really had a great time.

http://primozgraheljsblog.blogspot.si/2017/07/zuc-dal-bor-2195-m-divji-stolp-nad-val.html

(+6)

rozka11. 07. 2017 18:17:48

Nice write-up nasmeh

Oops, I really forgot zadrega

, so much happened... and to "Tavlko Voda" I will definitely come to cool off velik nasmeh

(+1)

funnyboy11. 07. 2017 21:03:57

Thanks

Yes, it's true, in these 24 hours so much happened that it's already hard to keep everything in your head.
For bathing in such water, the same "rule" applies as above 2000 m: it's a sin if you don't velik nasmeh

(+1)

rant1. 08. 2019 16:58:29

I recommend the circular tour which is drawn on the map. The tour extends by a good two hours. You do about 300 m more ascent, but it's worth it. Such a nicely laid-out route that an enthusiastic hiker must not miss.

I crossed one part of the map because there are no markings there. Purple is the right path.
Best regards, Jani