| Bandzo17. 07. 2018 16:11:03 |
For this year's vacation we wanted to combine mountains and different culture. After some deliberation the decision fell and we chose Georgia. The Caucasian country at first glance offers just enough difference to be interesting from the perspective of getting to know new culture, while also offering huge opportunities for hiking in the Caucasus. The plane tickets were quickly bought, then we also decided to rent a car (4x4), although we read how dangerous driving in Georgia is and that Georgian driving is very aggressive. Well, we also read that the roads are not exactly the best. If you decide for the trip and are looking for a good car rental provider, we recommend Cars4Rent from Tbilisi. We found them after long search for the most favorable offer and good insurance and coverage (rental price approx 45 eur per day without deductible for Suzuki Grand Vitara 2012).
And we went from Ljubljana via Istanbul to Tbilisi. Before we departed, we didn't read much and didn't prepare for the trip, as we didn't want to create opinions beforehand about sights, country, people's temperament, state of mind... We let the little country in the south of Caucasus guide us on its paths. All we looked at were the main characteristics and sources of national pride and so we quickly found out that Georgians are deeply religious orthodox Christians and that Georgians identify with wine and vine (it's said to originate from here, and there are also the oldest evidence of wine production in this country - as much as 8000 years old). Picking up the car at the airport and immediately we head east of the country towards Kakheti region, which is the most famous wine-growing area in Georgia. Driving through initially chaotic Tbilisi turns into unraveling various ways and reasons for honking (of course to us). Then somehow we unravel everything and already arrive in the cute town Sighnaghi, which is almost Tuscan. Village on a smaller hill with beautiful view to Alazani valley and eastern part of Caucasus. We settle in a nice Guesthouse, politely accept the offered excellent homemade wine and go for a tour of the town and dinner with a glass of wine.
The next day we travel towards Telavi and stop in the town of Kvareli, where one of the most famous Georgian wine producers is located - Khareba winery. Besides top wine they are also known for turning 11 km of Soviet tunnels into a cellar for - of course, wine. In a short tour and walk through the tunnels we learn a lot of new things about their wine production tradition, about kvevri (amphorae buried in the ground where alcoholic fermentation of grape juice to wine takes place) about Khareba and that they have over 86000 bottles in the tunnels at constant 11 °C. Impressive. The tour also offers tasting possibility and later spent afternoon in their wonderful garden. The path led us to Akhmeta, from where Google suggested the closest way to Stepansminda (Kazbegi) via Tianeti. Yeah right. For 19 km we needed 1h30min, road like on Jermanca after heavy rain. 
When we leave the very bad road behind, we join the so-called Military Highway, which connects Tbilisi with Russia via Vladikavkaz. The road is very scenic, you drive past the winter resort Gudauri, at the highest point you're somewhere near 2400 m asl, then descent to Stepansminda at 1700 m asl. The town is very dusty, full of trucks. Strong Russian vibe and influence is felt. After a full day's drive quickly under the blanket and in the morning from the valley via Gergeti church to approx 2900 m asl scenic pass, where Mount Kazbeg (5033 m asl) opens up like on the palm and where we rest. From Stepansminda center to the church approx 500 m ascent, needed time around 1 h. Further path to the pass without shade possibility, we chose the most trodden path up the valley for ascent. After total around 3h walk from the valley we arrive at the pass at 2900m, rest our eyes on the wonderful mountain and return to the valley along a more scenic ridge. Very wonderful hike. The tour can be extended from the pass by approx 3-4 h to the weather station Betlemi hut. To this hut the path also goes over glacier.
The next day already leaving Kazbegi and returning towards Tbilisi all the way to Mtskheta - old capital of Georgia, we see Jvari church and on highway hurry further to town Gori and Uplistsikhe (yeah, I imagine how you read this ). Here we saw for the first time rock-carved sanctuary and it really impressed us. Extremely beautiful, landscape wonderful too. After overnight near Kutaisi we headed to resort Batumi, quickly saw it and jumped into Black Sea at Kobuleti beach. From here along the coast to town Zugdidi (mandatory culinary stop) and into 100 km long valley cut by raging river towards the most remote part of Georgia - Svaneti and town Mestia. Lower 1/3 of road is asphalted, the rest except Mestia is concrete or gravel Mestia is wonderful, like some alpine village in the middle of Caucasus. Neat, clean, very tourist developed. They also have their museum that describes history of Svans and also explains influence of Svans on the story of Golden Fleece (Jason and Argonauts). The next day we did a hike to Koruldi lakes, also here mandatory equipment is sunscreen and more sunscreen if start is late. Path is well marked, little orientation helps only not to stray from path to lakes towards Guli pass. Stick to the ridge. After return to valley weather played tricks and it started raining. Since we saw that with heavy rain you shouldn't play in these parts, we used one day for rest and leisurely vacation, the next day we used the occasional window of stable weather and hurried back towards Zugdidi. There were some rocks on the road, one rolled right in front of the car but we avoided it. We also saw Prometheus caves, which is a walk underground without much added value. You feel that the main attraction is lighting and not stalactites. Doesn't reach our caves to the knees. While following reports we saw that we had decided correctly, as part of Svaneti region was hit by heavy rain with floods and landslides and some villages are cut off from the world. And so the next day we continued further via town Borjomi with excellent mineral water to town Akhaltsikhe, saw Rabati castle and overnighted in small village Tmogvi at pleasant and very hospitable family of "patriarch" Aleksandre Landscape around one main sight Vardzia pleased us so much that we extended stay here and thus enjoyed driving on "dirt roads" on deserted plateaus, hiked and explored old ruins at the foot of deep valley cut by Mtkvari river (Kura), had siesta under tree canopies and somehow tied our soul here
Followed passage over Paravani lakes and Algeti national park (by the way, we were the first guests in their new reception center - half construction site still) to Tbilisi side. From here to town Udabno, where we sit on lonely road and watch sunset in semi-desert. Next day turn to visit Davit Gareja monastery and after 2.5 h tour at 44°C at 11 am (mandatory early visit - road bad, hot as hell) we headed further towards Tbilisi and in some calm spirit and pulse of very interesting city drew trip conclusions.
Georgia is wonderful, diverse country. Such poverty in countryside and outside big cities we didn't expect, people and their hospitality, humility, faith and belonging and national pride can be example to us. Georgia offers the most if you approach it without expectations. And if you don't believe (purely) the pictures that Georgians promote 
And safe steps further,
Ben
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