| Dr.ejči9. 07. 2019 10:32:18 |
Prle about Begunjščica: "For me less to medium attractive mountain. On two visits I've always wondered what the hell I'm doing up there. The answer was and is: sometimes you have to eat bread and water too. Doesn't hurt, in certain moments even helps. The summit ridge is nice and elevated in its own way with similar feelings. But everyone discourages the full ridge traverse, even an ace like Tačrn."
But I like Begunjščica. Although it's like above BTC, you can find numerous hidden corners, even first ascents that don't attract most except "crazy" scree dwellers. And for me that's not bread and water, but delicious dessert.
When I first explored the area, I skipped the strict start and climbed the scree gully left of Sestopna to the saddle and started "ridge hopping" there. This variant is better for haters of "Lego" blocks. Next time with buddy, in more compact season (read winter), we turned onto grassy traverse above "hollow", strictly left to ridge. Here is the "party". And this time intensified. Everything you grab is "to go". Ambience phenomenal if you like it. Scrambling really no harder than II, but all one big rolling. Afraid we collapsed half Begunjščica? Higher terrain improves, replaced by mix of fallen trees, forest and bushes. In the latter two logging is evident, just watch the key passage through bushes at top of Sestopna, where you go up and step to the right side, to the boundary between bushes and wall. (First try a path left to traverse misled me, followed by 1.5h swimming in bushes). Ridge not too hard, except double tower where you can complicate life. First one I haven't climbed yet, this time up gully between both. Right side of second has psychedelic traverse I'll do someday "when I'm big", but need downclimb about 10m (II-III?). We bailed to the left from bushes. (With 60m one could descend right to chimney start, with 30m we had to because I didn't dare the slab traverse, had to traverse awkwardly. Piton left). Around both bypass left along wall through chimney up. Further mostly green sea. Calvary ends at grassy saddle where probably a hunting path leads? (guess). Then just a walk to Begunjska Vratača.
Prle's rating: "800m, II, 2h. Access via scree before tunnel to crumbly, friable, bushy, unpleasant, slightly risky and hard-to-pass ridge. Up it seeking easiest passages..."
Mine: didn't measure length, harder than II no, time... well, we took 5h to Begunjska Vratača. (Continuation to summit and descent NW ridge skipped as dense crowd gathered on top, we preferred the one with hop flavor. So down "Šentanc express").
Recommend only to "fools and horses", scree sadomasochists, lovers of "Lego" blocks and "green sea".
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