| Parkeljc7. 02. 2020 19:53:03 |
On one of the social (selfie) networks yesterday someone posted that the conditions have never been better..
So we went to check. Crampons could be put on already on the service road, just before turning to the scree, but since we thought it a pity, we put them on much higher, a bit before the Y fork – central.
Conditions of all sorts, first on drier scree, with altitude more snow and firmer. The central gully looked nicely filled, so we left it for descent. We turn into Y. Snow, as said, all sorts, from squeaky snow to slush, then packed and partly windslab. At the fork we decide for the right exit, left already partly corniced. Since the right is untouched, we kickstep nicely to the ridgelet separating Y from central. In this short untouched part due to hammering the boot into slightly slushy snow that holds very well, it literally carries me away. Then over short icy stretch to the exit, where the sun awaits us with pleasant spring temperature.
After short rest on top we decide for descent via central gully. Initially partly icy or at least very hard base changes in places to slush that slides slightly in places. Since the slope towards the central part of the gully lowers a bit more, and slush appeals to us not at all, we decide to cross short icy part to middle of gully, then slowly descend to steepest and narrowest part of gully (pitch nicely filled). Here slope is steepest, snow packed, crampons and ice axes grip well.
With little slalom on snow tongues we descend with crampons to service road.
To me Y and central gully seemed completely OK, there have been much worse conditions, there have also been much better. And I fear such posts (above-mentioned post on one social network) might attract someone who falls for "never better conditions." Of course every assessment of conditions is completely subjective and depends mainly on experience, snow conditions, fitness, gear, weather.. and more.
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