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List of forums / Slovenia / Karawanks / Begunjska Vrtača

Begunjska Vrtača

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Janez Seliškar19. 02. 2015 08:19:23
From Ljubelj via the ski slope and then up the NE gully towards the BV ridge. Snow variable, in the lower part hard and firm, in the middle wind-blown and unprocessed, in the upper part icy. Since the gully ends blindly under the labyrinth of exit gullies with some sense and luck we chose the right one and climbed to the ridge. Along it right to the summit. We descended via the Descent Gully, which is currently a textbook example of a well-passable gully.
Begunjska Vrtača At the ski slope it turns left to the NE chute.1
Begunjska Vrtača At the top of the chute it turns right.2
Begunjska Vrtača Searching for the passage to the ridge.3
Begunjska Vrtača Last 50 meters to the ridge.4
Begunjska Vrtača Towards the summit.5
Begunjska Vrtača In the Sestopna gully.6
(+4)like
JusAvgustin19. 02. 2015 08:21:26
Was the Ostržkova gully too steep?mežikanje
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Janez Seliškar19. 02. 2015 08:27:35
Too dry at the entry, although traces of someone who descended it were visible.
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ljubitelj gora19. 02. 2015 09:18:05
I saw you on top of the scree.
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Jovan Cukut19. 02. 2015 18:37:19
A bit more, more detailed and technical, about the ascent route up the SV gully to the Begunjska vrtača ridge in pictures and comments on the link below. For all those mountaineers who would like to repeat this route.

https://picasaweb.google.com/113805105178377351223/BegunjskaVrtacaPoSVPlazuOdSrednjePostajeVrtaca18022015?authkey=Gv1sRgCMitjeqP19uStQE#

(+1)like
Hammond19. 02. 2015 20:24:31
Ostržkova has currently ca. 6 practically bare jumps (on ascent thin strips of processed snow and ice help). Central and summit part often loose (encountered also a spot with 2 m sink), there where this snow was blown away it's hard. Access right along the gully first hard, then partly dry and before entry penetrating slabby (also up to 5 cm crust). That Saturday there was also fog with visibility approx. 10-15 m. Descent via it would be extremely risky, I doubt it was done. For ascent though sense and rope in hands.
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JusAvgustin20. 02. 2015 06:01:16
It was, it was.
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Hammond20. 02. 2015 17:06:59
then congratulations. nasmeh
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Tadej24. 06. 2017 09:03:50
Today I went from Ljubelj via Preval to Begunjska Vrtača. Descended the same route. No peculiarities on the route.
Regards, Tadej
Butterfly1
before the tunnel2
Morning3
Storžič4
snapshot5
On Prevala6
view7
Prevala8
view9
Julian Alps with Triglav10
The first this year that I saw11
Gorenjska12
Begunjščica13
Hut on Zelenica14
View from Begunjska Vrtača15
View from Begunjska Vrtača16
View from Begunjska Vrtača17
View from Begunjska Vrtača18
Palec19
Beetle20
Rjavca21
Murka22
The same gentian again, this time in the sun23
Prevala24
On the descent25
The parking lot is filling up26
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michael6624. 06. 2017 10:15:16
But I thought that a bit higher there are no tickszmeden
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Tadej24. 06. 2017 10:39:19
This one was photographed at almost 2000 meters, but probably got on pants already lower down. It was the first I saw around Ljubelj.
I've spotted it on Dleskovska plateau before too.
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michael6624. 06. 2017 11:55:00
Will really have to chop....
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zlatica24. 06. 2017 12:24:32
Tadej, you're good at this right from the start, that you've already done this ascent this morning. It probably hasn't been that hot for you yet!zmedenvelik nasmeh
(+1)like
dRM12. 02. 2020 15:43:20
Today on BV with extension to Veliki vrh. Since the gullies are poorly filled (Lenuhova more for drytooling) I chose Sestopna grapa for approach. Enough snow to put crampons on already at Vrtača hut, then through scrub to more solid snow in lower part of Šentanski plaz.

No track, so I cut it my own way, lower part a bit more left, towards top a bit more right. Snow in lower part of descent gully hard and firm, upper part very icy, some spots only first crampon teeth gripped. No sinking. Recommend only with full gear and experience/knowledge of it.

Summit no wind and sun, so I go to Veliki vrh. Descend Šentanski plaz, upper (steepest) part very firm and icy. Sometimes old track/steps visible, useful.

Nice quiet day, no one met from car to car. Lone jackdaw at summit ate almost more sandwich than me (classic) nasmeh

Video of conditions here.

A little before the Vrtača hut1
Šentanski plaz2
View back, behind Vrtača, Zelenjak, Palec3
At the top of BV4
View of the entrance to Šentanski plaz5
A little below Veliki vrh of Begunjščica6
Veliki vrh of Begunjščica7
view8
(+6)like
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