| gregcs16. 07. 2011 08:40:07 |
Let me be the first  .
On Monday 4.7. Matej and I set off to climb the Kovinarska route in the north face of Velika Mojstrovka. Start at Vršič, past Vratc, towards Slemen, then along the PP along that infamous traverse to the cirque under the north wall. Up the scree to the entry, where it got complicated. The entry was supposed to bypass the chimney on the left, chimneys a bunch . Of course we missed the right one, and climbed a nice sixth grade to the roof. Then the traverse to the right followed, where I was about 1m short of easy terrain. I would have had to traverse a nice protruding jug, in full exposure, belayed on a peg which I later pulled out by hand on return. That didn't seem sensible to me  , so I climbed the traverse back to the belay, where we (re)arranged the anchor, and rappelled to the route start. When both of us got down, we untied the safety knots on the rope, and pulled the rope which managed to get stuck right at the end.  $&%#! (censored) Pull straight, left, right, nothing. What now? We decided to climb with the second rope more left of the descent route, and try to pull the stuck rope higher. Of course it didn't work, as the rope was stuck in the wall along which I pulled it up. After about two hours of struggle, I was forced to make a decision, took the knife and cut off as much as I had in hand  . We did one more rappel, and off to ričet in the hut at Gozd.
So if anyone needs it, I'm selling a good 30m rope (36m roughly measured, Beal Ice Line, 8.1mm), the remaining piece hanging under the roof, in our entry variant to the Kovinarska route. If someone is climbing around there and arranges pics of the anchor with the stuck rope, I'll buy beer!
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