Bučer - Kristan Route in Mali Oltar
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| dprapr24. 07. 2018 22:02:37 |
Today Tone (lijaneja) and I spent a beautiful day in Martuljek. Via the Three Larches we climbed to the base of the Mali Oltar wall and climbed it via the Bučer - Kristan route. Below the cave there's still a steep snowfield, for which it's good to have crampons or at least some tools.
The wall itself is very compact, the route one of the nicest in this grade. The rock (less sharp) is very similar to that in Paklenica, even though it's in Martuljek.
From the cave, where it all really begins, to the top it's pure poetry of climbing.
Descent (except the first abseil from the top) is something completely different. Again we're in the Martuljek world where mistakes aren't allowed. The scree towards Kotel is very loose, belay stations for abseils countless, anywhere, even where they don't make sense.
We descended only into the "canyon" and then further down where there was a very nicely equipped belay station. The rest we downclimbed and scrambled under the wall across the short gully onto the snowfield and down it to the valley. Below Kotel there were two more snowfields for glissading.
Under the larches we were surprised already in the morning by a rockfall cannonade, not small stones, and in the afternoon returning, it boomed from Široka Peč.
Definitely a day for the soul.
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| lijaneja25. 07. 2018 12:27:12 |
Yesterday I had another super adventure, for which Drago is 'guilty', who executed it flawlessly. He already wrote the technical stuff, I'll do the more emotional . Since this mountain, which is quite high by the way, people obviously don't know at all, https://www.hribi.net/trenutnerazmere.asp?slo=1&gorovjeid=10001&id=1432&stran=1 I pay even more attention to it. Of course I didn't measure up to it at all, but with Drago's help the visit was pure enjoyment. Unfortunately he carried the rope most of the time, as he realized that I can barely keep up with him even without it
In the early morning we sped on the empty highway, no traffic jams even in Rutah, so we leave the parking lot just before six. Shade and cool are very pleasant, the sun appears over Široka peč only around nine. Despite my slowness and 'rope dragging', we reach the top exactly at noon. The climbing (about 400m) in solid rock was really great. Some sections of weak fours could be compared to a good two due to excellent holds, difficulty could only be mental due to great exposure.
We practically didn't meet people, except on the path under the inn.
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| bbugari125. 07. 2018 13:53:02 |
Bravo Tone and Drago, you were very active! Congrats!
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| dprapr25. 07. 2018 23:27:46 |
Thanks.
As I mentioned above, on the descent there are plenty of various belay stations, probably for 30 and 60 meter rappels. Really needed are only the one at the top (and even there you could descend the gully behind) and the one above the "mini couloir or mini canyon", whatever we call it. Below it you can traverse to Grlo or down to Kotel. Probably you can also traverse above it to Grlo.
Also in the route itself quite a few pitons have accumulated in the last few years.
Tone praises me a bit too much, he did excellently too.
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| Gorska planika26. 07. 2018 08:50:59 |
Wow, congrats to both! I believe it was good for the soul...One really wishes to be with you in such beautiful rocks...
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| lijaneja26. 07. 2018 19:29:02 |
Yes, Neža, everything fell into place nicely and I could easily step on Oltarček too - if it had been at least three years ago
Where have you disappeared to? You've been in hiding since Grossi.
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| SilvestrO27. 07. 2018 10:51:55 |
I have one question for the experts...(lijaneja -sl.40), does the passage from Kotel to Grlo go through the right gully or a bit further right, which isn't visible on the picture?
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| dprapr27. 07. 2018 11:10:45 |
On picture 40 you go along the left side of the scree upwards to the end and then climb a bit to the left upwards. The exit is quite a bit above Grlo.
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| Gorska planika27. 07. 2018 16:50:22 |
Tone, I'm happily wandering around Just today Rajko and I were talking that we need to do a joint trip
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| lijaneja28. 07. 2018 12:46:36 |
Great, Neža. I already have a plan. Check ZS!
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| Gorska planika30. 07. 2018 09:55:08 |
Tone, thanks! I already replied! Also sent you a message, Drago Good luck!
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| franc.rozman@adventure.si31. 08. 2022 12:37:49 |
Hello.
Thanks for the exciting description. I don't know if anyone still reads this, as it's been a while since posting. This year I went past there 8.2022, to Mala Ponca. But the rock on M. Oltar looks extremely inviting. I'm interested if there are enough pegs in the route or what blacksmith gear to take? Which spot requires the most attention on ascent and descent?
I searched for descriptions but was unsuccessful.
Thanks for the reply.
best, Franc
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| Lunatixz31. 08. 2022 13:04:57 |
I hope you realize that despite the low grade it's a serious alpinistic ascent and without the necessary knowledge from experience definitely don't tackle it.
I'm attaching a cutout/pics from Slovenske Stene (T. Mihelič), where all necessary data are.
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| Urbban31. 08. 2022 15:38:03 |
Pegs in the route are few, but the rock is such that placing protection isn't hard. The route itself isn't difficult - in the climbing sense, but of course it's an alpinistic ascent. Orientation isn't hard either. The rock is very good for our mountains. At the top you're not even half done - the descent is a story of its own. Harder than up is actually getting down - the terrain all the time is on the border between downclimbing and abseiling, the rock orange, crumbly. Some abseil stations are made, I don't know what condition they are in. Good luck!
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| dprapr31. 08. 2022 23:34:45 |
I don't know what a route looks like where there are lots of pegs, if there are few here.
There were never many pegs in such easy routes. Even fewer in those with long approach.
The route's difficulty is also a bit exaggerated. Probably due to steepness. Definitely not because of small holds.
For such routes we need some more mileage, because it's not all in the route, but also some in the approach and descent.
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