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Cima Monfalcon di Montanaia (2548)

IgorZlodej27. 07. 2011 16:23:07

This area actually belongs to the Friulian Dolomites, also Dolomiti sinistra del Piave. Still in the twilight on Tuesday 26.7 I head out. Best from the parking lot past Pordenone hut, first along almost flat path, then up through wide meadows of lower Val Monfalcon di Cimoliana valley. The trail is quite solid this year too. At path 360 junction they put up closed sign for forc. Cimoliana, the gully is really collapsed, felt it last year too. Continue to Leone col but only 10 mins, then left across meadows up along stream, on the other side I see trail outline and some red marks. Under wall to small spring, water dripping over wall, through nice passage to grassy scree cirque, higher steeper grass, arrows on rock point right but no, stick to steep grass till it ends then right. At entrance to rugged gully, mark with arrow and on rock reliable start sign. Gully wide at first, rocky passage, then narrows to Coassa chimney climbed without big trouble. Annoying at top all scree, path turns left across exposed slope, careful esp. stones flying to approach gully. Easier climbing follows, crumbly terrain, sometimes don't dare touch rock it'd fall. Higher compact rock, some hard spots wet, short chimney to small col, nice view to Padova hut and mountains not in fog. Below summit to NW side, short steep chimney good holds straight to top. Long wish fulfilled, sit bit, descend carefully abseil Coassa chimney. At entrance sit again, scree to cirque start, passage past spring under wall up, pick up 349 to Leone forc., see Marchi-Granzotto bivouac below but left up small col to Monfalcon di Forni forc. Two Italians pass, from Padova hut to Giaf hut. To bivouac first rain drops hail, they soon after. Half hour wait, light rain down Val Monfalcon di Forni to Cimoliana. Wonderful valley, great 359 path, great ascent, will return. Relied on Karnijske potepanja notes, Mirot's other forum desc helped lots tho he omits details wisely.

Cima Monfalcon di Montanaia (2548) still in the dark from the hut Pordenone

Cima Monfalcon di Montanaia (2548) gravelly wet lower part of the valley Val Monfalcon di Montanania

Cima Monfalcon di Montanaia (2548) Cima Stalla and blue sky promising a nice day

Cima Monfalcon di Montanaia (2548) path 360 also officially closed, attention to the description in Karnijskih potepanjih

Cima Monfalcon di Montanaia (2548) nice passage visible from afar

Cima Monfalcon di Montanaia (2548) behind the larch the summit hides

Cima Monfalcon di Montanaia (2548) as the first sun rays dispel the fog from the gully

Cima Monfalcon di Montanaia (2548) not to the right, but behind the rock immediately up the grass again

Cima Monfalcon di Montanaia (2548) two pitons are the sign it's the right gully

Cima Monfalcon di Montanaia (2548) nice beginning

Cima Monfalcon di Montanaia (2548) Coassa chimney, presumably the most difficult part of the ascent

Cima Monfalcon di Montanaia (2548) scree and remains of the last snowfall

Cima Monfalcon di Montanaia (2548) wild environment of towers and pinnacles

Cima Monfalcon di Montanaia (2548) idyllic Padova hut far below

Cima Monfalcon di Montanaia (2548) at the summit in the fog

Cima Monfalcon di Montanaia (2548) I thought such were only under Cridolo

Cima Monfalcon di Montanaia (2548) chimney from above, all around scree-covered

Cima Monfalcon di Montanaia (2548) I descend into the chimney on a double rope, the old piton above holds excellently

Cima Monfalcon di Montanaia (2548) in the idyllic cirque there is a nice view of nearby and distant mountains

Cima Monfalcon di Montanaia (2548) Leone notch

Cima Monfalcon di Montanaia (2548) Croad ultima dell Leone

Cima Monfalcon di Montanaia (2548) forc. Monfalcon di Forni

Cima Monfalcon di Montanaia (2548) bivak Marchi - Granzotto

Cima Monfalcon di Montanaia (2548) springs below Cima Bianca

Cima Monfalcon di Montanaia (2548) shelter at Caseranta del Pecoli

(+1)

jaz4. 08. 2011 19:09:06

I was already glad in 2008 to get through Cimoliana gully which was in very bad state, snow caused extra trouble. For memory took small heart-shaped stone and gave to wife who preferred bathing in one of pools in valley that day. Today stone adorns my collection. Regards!

but last year with Jack we just climbed it

(+1)

tofane10. 09. 2012 08:51:43

The path start from junction to Forcello Cimoliano not as Igor described or was different then. 100m from junction towards bivak Grazzotto right after crossing stream turn left (large red dot on larch visible) continue up along stream to scree where arrow and red dot on stone, left over gravel then right up to wall where visible trail (Igor mentioned) leading to steep grass. Over steep grass slightly right but always up to stone with arrow right (rare cairns). Then per Igor's desc. At descent from summit (ca 15m) and over Coassa chimney recommend belay. Peter Pasar

From this junction towards bivacco Grazzoto 100 meters ahead

Across this stream and immediately left upwards

When you turn left up along the stream you spot a red dot on the larch

Across the scree and right upwards to the wall

Across steep grass slightly right but always upwards

IgorZlodej13. 10. 2012 20:28:50

I just chose the optimal best approach, of course everyone can choose their own. If not misled by some Italian then, would have gone to Monfalcon year earlier, instead experienced whole mess on Forc. Cimoliano then and later ascended Cima Emilio from where grandest view on Campanile.

IgorZlodej10. 08. 2014 19:48:16

Not much has changed from three years ago. The weather served us more than excellently. On the return we went over Forc. Cimoliana to check if Campanile still stands mežikanje