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Circular: Dimniki, Luknja peč, Rjavina, Vrbanove špice

Heavy_bull15. 08. 2024 18:58:41

Luknja peč (15.8.2024) from Kota
PP (Planica - Pokljuka) path can be followed well to window overlooking Krma, then orientation harder - especially traversing southern slopes of Luknja peč to sandy saddle. Initial ascent from sandy saddle (on PP path) to Luknja peč summit, we spiced it via gully (start of III. grade) probably a bit too left (upward) from transverse ridge running from summit via sandy saddle to Krma. Descent same way. Previous reports helpful (thanks!), adding some pics and comments for orientation.

Here from the marked path (Kot - Staničev dom) to the PP path towards V gubah

Into this gully over a rock jump (marked with PP dot)

View of the jump back (a bit of help also old and quite loose peg)a)

In case of wet rocks in this jump, the two visible pegs at the top of the jump would be useful (in dry, there shouldn't be major difficulties - II degree)

After the jump follows scree, which we cross upwards somewhat to the left (to the edge with scree) and don't push too high straight up to the wall. Behind the scree edge on the left side, this passage will then be visible.

Ledges - all the time the main orientation is the reddish wall with larch.

On the ledges already closer to the reddish wall with larch.

A couple of meters up right before the reddish wall (visible peg).

When we continue traversing behind the reddish wall, we soon spot this window (on the left side) - here we turn right into the gully, up which we climb about 30 m (II degree)

At the top of the gully then across to this ledge to the left

At the saddle at the top of the ledge - we spot Dimnike

Short descent behind the saddle and soon to the right we spot...

From the window short descent and up right along the wide grassy ledge

At the top of the ledge - this part of the traverse on the southern slopes is orientationally the most difficult - steep, crumbly, interspersed with cut-off gullies. First descent along the grassy ledge and then approximately as shown

View back at the descent on the grassy ledge and further crossing

Spicy rock jump over this gully (start of the III-degree jump) probably somewhat too far left of the sandy saddle

Continuation of the rock jump into the gully to the right

Already at the top of the jump, where crossing to the left follows and

then right more or less straight upwards to the top on such a scree-like crumbly slope

View back - first part of the mentioned slope

View back - already a bit higher on the slope. Upon exiting at the top of the slope still a little to the right to the summit.

(+15)

Trobec16. 08. 2024 00:29:56

Heavy bull is more up-to-date...this is still from hot Sunday when tour idea was most northern approach velik nasmeh

From window onwards we went bit differently. Left PP earlier and straight up ridge. Descent to "sandy saddle" - extremely crumbly. Then PP to Temen and Rjavina.

https://trobec.blogspot.com/2024/08/luknja-pec-rjavina-1182024.html

(+5)

dprapr16. 08. 2024 16:00:34

"Killing sloped plain, no climbing, just 300m knee grinding."
Almost within reach though is along ridge to Rjavina one of nicest approaches, compact rock and enjoyable scrambling. nasmeh

Trobec16. 08. 2024 19:10:20

Hehe... yeah, there was a debate about that variant... but according to descriptions half to a whole grade harder - if you don't miss velik nasmeh

We didn't have much gear with us nasmeh

ljubitelj gora16. 08. 2024 19:41:51

This from Temena shows the PP path to Luknja peč. At least it's marked at the start, we didn't go there, but higher up one gully, not so hard

Trobec16. 08. 2024 20:34:00

Yeah, approximately like that we went. Well, left part of the line more direct up the gully.

ljubitelj gora16. 08. 2024 20:56:41

Gully hidden, can't see it on the picture

(+1)

janezs739. 08. 2025 17:07:19

Yesterday royal loop - from Kot (too early forced by circumstances) to Gube and from there via PP8 to the window and on to Luknja peč, then further (almost) to Temen and to the top of Rjavina. Descent via secured path to Pekel and further to Kot.

Of 4 PP parts (1,3,6 and this 8), this seemed the hardest to me. For proper passage from HeavyBull's last year pic 20 to southern shoulder of Luknja peč yesterday I wasn't ready so I diverted to the ridge, where there was "only" climbing without impossible hanging scree that begs to sweep you away.
Of course descent from Luknja peč wasn't far from that either, but it seemed manageable to me anyway zmeden

.
Just before Temen in total enthusiasm I followed the beautiful original PP path a bit too long and thus searched for the ascent gully too late, then turned around and up the previous gully (in my opinion like Trobec and company last year, his pic 22) - this wasn't easy either.

On Rjavina well-deserved rest after long hours of searching, which this time unlike previous PP searches led to the end of the stage on first attempt velik nasmeh

Still before dawn already almost at Gubah.

entrance to the first rock step marked with a (new?) dot

beautiful views to the north - Škrlatica, Rokavi and Oltar

here too there are really shiny PP marks

ledges in all their shine (photographed back to the red wall with larch which is visible in the picture)

this one showed me that last one above the gully

the sun shone on me right before the window

from the window towards the southern arm of Luknja peč abundance of cairns; 20 m from that point I turned back here and up to the ridge

from the top of Luknja peč nice visible continuation at the Luknja saddle towards Temen

and in between across the only section not visible on the previous picture

at the exit from the gully with view on Temen (in the middle of the picture)

borrowed photo of SilvestrO from 2012: after inspecting the leftmost gully (before Temen) I returned back and up the previous gully - this one also demanding but not too difficult

(+13)

LISAC9. 08. 2025 19:09:57

janezs73 congrats on PP tour!

bos26. 07. 2026 21:26:22

Yesterday I again let myself be led and just enjoyed and of course took photos. velik nasmeh

So along the path Kot - PP (Planica - Pokljuka) - Dimniki - Luknja peč - Rjavina - Kot. jezik

It was a wonderful day, ideal weather for hiking and a path that will forever remain in your memory. mežikanje

up there we are heading, Dimniki, Luknja peč and Rjavina

we turn from the marked path towards the rock with PP marking

on the other side is Požgana Mlinarica from where the PP comes

view through the window towards Kukova špica

across Mlinaric ridge to Škrlatica with neighbors

Dolkova špica, Rogljica, Rakova špica and Škrlatica

below the white break to a smaller saddle and then right upwards

pointed Dolkova špica, left Dovški Gamsovec, right Rakova špica

the thick stone still stands in its place

at the end I still turn a bit off the path

(+15)

TamaraTP26. 07. 2026 22:59:44

Beautiful.

ppegan27. 07. 2026 08:09:04

Nice

And also quite long and demanding. We only went to Luknja peč, without Dimniki and without the extension to Rjavina, and that was already enough for me zavijanje z očmi

But from Luknja peč to Rjavina, is there any climbing or is it more of a hike? From the pictures I couldn't tell if you went directly along the ridge or more around over the roof.

lynx27. 07. 2026 08:43:21

If you go around, you climb nothing.

(+1)

julya27. 07. 2026 12:49:09

I'm wondering if you have to go all the way to Temen to get to the roof of Rjavina, or if you can get up earlier without having to climb? There are probably no cairns or maybe some? (I'm asking because I know that the Luknja peč-Rjavina ridge is too difficult for me. eek

)

bos27. 07. 2026 15:25:33

Picture 32 - we traversed to the end, a visible smaller saddle, an unnamed peak on the left, then we went right up the gully nicely with poles to the roof of Rjavina.

(+1)

julya27. 07. 2026 16:18:42

Thanks, boss!

julya13. 08. 2026 07:50:56

At the peak of the season such a solitary tour comes in handy, we didn't meet anyone until Rjavina, not even animals nasmeh

. There's almost nothing to add to the predecessors' photos, but I thank everyone for the tips. The tour is beautiful but looong, the ledges above Kot are wonderful, while the terrain on the south side is much less pleasant, scree, broken, also transitions less obvious ... it requires constant concentration. As an ordinary scree walker it was an honor for me to look into the summit register on Luknja peč.