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Cmir and Rjavina

Guest19. 08. 2007 22:23:23

Hello everyone, I'm wondering if someone can tell me what the paths from VRAT to CMIR and RJAVINA are like. Last time I was on ŠKRLATICA, which is described as a very difficult secured path and the self-belay kit is supposed to be mandatory. I had it with me but didn't use it because it didn't seem necessary. I'm interested if the ascent to CMIR and RJAVINA is more demanding and if the kit is really as mandatory as it says. Thanks in advance for the answers. LPP

Tadej19. 08. 2007 22:31:25

If you didn't need the full kit for Škrlatica you won't need it on those two peaks either. To me Cmir seemed easier, Rjavina (via climbing) harder than Škrlatica. P.S. On Hribi.net pages the kit is listed as recommended and not as mandatory equipment.

Guest20. 08. 2007 14:34:06

Tadej,
you say Rjavina was harder climbing-wise than Škrlatica. In what? I was on Rjavina via this path myself and when I looked at pics of Škrlatica there's no comparison. The latter seems much more demanding to me.
LP

michael6620. 08. 2007 14:53:03

Ascent to Cmir from Staničeva hut isn't too demanding and not exposed, takes about two hours. On this path you surely won't need a belay kit. Ascent to Rjavina at the start (from Staničeva) also nothing special, only on the summit ridge where the path rises and falls a few times it's exposed but well secured. This path also takes about two hours (to summit). LP

Tadej20. 08. 2007 16:57:37

The climbing section of the path to Rjavina is shorter than to Škrlatica but noticeably harder. Comparison of the hardest parts of the paths to Rjavina and Škrlatica. Pic 1 path to Rjavina goes steeply almost vertically up, pic 2 narrow secured side ridge ending with crossing a chasm. Further the path is easier. Pic 3 traverse in Škrlatica wall (hardest part to Škrlatica) runs almost horizontally and excellently secured. 1. http://www.hribi.net/slika.asp?pot=1091 2. http://www.hribi.net/slika.asp?pot=1092 3. http://www.hribi.net/slika.asp?pot=1258
Difficulty of the path is relatively hard to assess as each individual has their own measure of what's hard.

Guest27. 08. 2007 12:39:30

To me the path to Škrlatica seemed much easier than the path from Staničeva hut to Rjavina. Rjavina is more crumbly. Well, that's my opinion. lp S.

Guest27. 08. 2007 16:53:38

Brane V. - let me comment too, since I know both peaks well. Ascent to Rjavina from Kot is more demanding and harder than to Škrlatica. From Staničeva hut along the ridge path less demanding, though equally strenuous. Generally Rjavina has a higher difficulty rating. Nice mountain greeting!

Guest29. 08. 2007 14:17:11

Rjavina is one of the nicer climbing paths in Slo from hell.

Parkeljc17. 09. 2012 19:58:21

From Kot along the path to Staničeva, at the junction to Rjavina I turn left, on a partly snowy path over scree to the first pegs. Between the first and second cable there is a narrow snowy gully, too much snow, considerable depth, but the frozen snow holds my weight. Further on, occasionally grab a rock, then on a very narrow and very exposed ridge first with pegs, then cable to the saddle. From the saddle descend to the left on an almost vertical wall with cable to the notch, then past windows soon reach the summit. Views magnificent, I take time for myself.
Then back the same way to the saddle where climbing and ridge paths meet, continue on the ridge. Only when descending to Staničeva is the path occasionally lost due to drifted snow, but easy to follow.
At the junction where the path meets the one from Krma, turn to Staničeva hut, then to Begunjski vrh. Just before it turn to Cmir. Path under north face of Begunjski vrh, especially where it goes over scree, snowy, sometimes with drifts over 50cm deep. From the saddle with first views to Vrata valley past Rjavčevih glav to Cmir summit no snow on path. Pegs and cables where needed, maybe even too many.
Although sign at Staničeva says 2 hours to Cmir, I reach the summit in 50 min (wasn't running as fatigue was showing a bit) mežikanje

Cmir very little visited, views indescribable too.
Then just return by the same path to Staničeva hut where I quench my thirst. Very friendly hutkeeper serves (two mežikanje

) and despite high drink prices no complaints.
From the hutkeeper I learn that the hut will close anyway on Sunday 23.9.2012.
After rest just the descent to the valley.