| viharnik11. 08. 2010 18:22:04 |
Many mountaineers hear the name Bovški Gamsovec in conversation, the other one in the Škrlatica ridge, but Dovški is still forgotten exotica.
I drive through the gate, where 20m after the Čarlovec scree I encounter on the right bank towards Bistrica a quite undermined road from recent downpours, but drivable. Parking in the morning at Ajla's hut offers only a few parking spots at the end (tourists: A,D,F,RO,BG,GB,HR,CH). At the bivouac I find out together with my colleague, who came from Pogačnikov dom (a few families), that most tourists from Vršič went towards Triglav and surroundings. The bivouac was in good condition and a little less crowded in July, where even foreigners were cleaning the bivouac (complaint sheet) for the scoundrels. I change the thermometer battery, which surprisingly is still there since mounting (I reinforced it with wood and screws before) and chop pine twigs for winter days.
Soon I'm already walking on long screes that fall from Dolkova špica. To the saddle between Rdeča škrbina and Dovški Gamsovec I descend for 10min along the traverse that holds towards Kriške pode. Here above I spot from the right a red gravelly gully, which higher in the couloir a terrace to the right cuts the mountain backdrop. The entry part into the gully is quite eerie, but closer passages appear through cluttered and partly rock-covered terrain. In between at the constriction I move a 100kg rock that almost rolled away if I hadn't held it (therefore five min after entry, where there is narrowing with 3m smooth rock, beware!). I step back a step and with a grip traverse to the right side of the gully. Further due to steepness and dangerous scree I stick all the time to steeper terrain on the right. I search for rock ledges and individual rocks all along right at the right edge of the mountain. This way I reach the flattening before the summit, where the path turns through passages to the left, vertical corners of the summit dome. Here I stand directly at the wall break that falls into Krnica. About 5m from the fresh break in the mountain slope a deep crack and erosion formed, which again calls for a break, so climbers from Krnica beware!. Also at the top you need to climb a bit again so the mountain accepts you right on its top. The view on surrounding peaks is not everyday and beautiful. According to Marjan&Marko's description I go down the initially easier ridge and through steep and cluttered gully to the lower basin, where I bypass above the rocky peaks in the main ridge. Below according to the description I find the next steeper and exposed gully, where a rock is jammed in between (5-6m climbing), but the gully itself at least for descent without protection is very dangerous and impassable (clutter and steepness). I climb further on terraces right towards the ridge couloir, where I encounter steep basins mixed with steep rock ledges, walls and scree. There is no easy passage between Gubni and D.G. to the lower screes to the traverse here!. In between fog envelops me, so I head back through the gully and again to the top and carefully descend the ascent path. Larger rocks and holds are here quite reliable, not all though, never on loaded steep scree. The tour to D.G. is after climbing very varied, from crossing in the chimney in the middle of the gully and summit part, searching passages through scree on scattered rocks and easier summit climbing in solid rock and bypassing some rock ledges. Climbing is I to I/II grade, sometimes poor II, but good orientation is needed for passages both upwards and downwards, otherwise you end up in difficult terrain.
The mountain is an excellent goal already because from Krnica we see it as a steep blade in the high wall of the Škrlatica ridge.
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