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List of forums / Slovenia / Julian Alps / Dovški Gamsovec, Dolkova Špica and Kucelj

Dovški Gamsovec, Dolkova Špica and Kucelj

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editorgo31. 08. 2015 19:17:10
On Thursday, 27 August, three hikers set off from Vrata, past bivouac IV "Na Rušju", to Dolkova špica via the western route. On the way, we decided to climb also Dovški Gamsovec. Since there is no path to it, Viper's description left a few months ago helped us a lot. Let me also briefly describe the ascent to Dovški Gamsovec: where the path to Škrlatica starts descending to screes below Dovški Gamsovec, go left along a fairly wide ledge, only in slight ascent towards the foot of Dovški Gamsovec. We need to reach the gully, right at the end of the scree. Cross the gully, then diagonally up to smaller upper scree. From scree, head into scree-filled very steep gully, follow it to the very end. The world then flattens and to the summit just need to find best passages over really small rock hops. Entire route full of scree, sheer walls close by, no room for error! Also in upper gully every hold must be carefully checked, extremely crumbly. But feelings on top exceptional, views too. Continuation to Dolkova špica and descent to Zadnji Dolek simpler, but no less strenuous. Views from top of Dolkova špica fantastic! Whole route from Vrata to Vrata good 18 km long, worth every metre! LP all and safe in mountains!
Dovški Gamsovec, Dolkova Špica and Kucelj Triglav from the balcony just before the end of the forest line1
Dovški Gamsovec, Dolkova Špica and Kucelj path towards the junction for Stenarska vratca2
Dovški Gamsovec, Dolkova Špica and Kucelj a few minutes before the Na rušju bivouac3
Dovški Gamsovec, Dolkova Špica and Kucelj Bivouac IV4
Dovški Gamsovec, Dolkova Špica and Kucelj mushrooms at 2100 meters above sea level5
Dovški Gamsovec, Dolkova Špica and Kucelj path through the karst terrain above the bivouac, view back6
Dovški Gamsovec, Dolkova Špica and Kucelj junction, left Pogačnikov dom, right Škrlatica7
Dovški Gamsovec, Dolkova Špica and Kucelj Dolkova špica8
Dovški Gamsovec, Dolkova Špica and Kucelj Dovški Gamsovec, here we left the marked path and went left along the ledge to the scree under the base9
Dovški Gamsovec, Dolkova Špica and Kucelj we crossed the gully and ascended diagonally to the right10
Dovški Gamsovec, Dolkova Špica and Kucelj near the lower gully that needs to be crossed11
Dovški Gamsovec, Dolkova Špica and Kucelj Ascent on the steep and crumbly slope towards the upper scree.12
Dovški Gamsovec, Dolkova Špica and Kucelj View of the upper scree that we reached by passing the grassy patch in the middle of the image, which was on our left during the ascent.13
Dovški Gamsovec, Dolkova Špica and Kucelj We continued along a very steep and crumbly gully full of debris.14
Dovški Gamsovec, Dolkova Špica and Kucelj Very steep gully along which the approach route goes.15
Dovški Gamsovec, Dolkova Špica and Kucelj View downwards from the exit of the gully.16
Dovški Gamsovec, Dolkova Špica and Kucelj Slope above the gully just below the summit.17
Dovški Gamsovec, Dolkova Špica and Kucelj At the summit of Dovški Gamsovec.18
Dovški Gamsovec, Dolkova Špica and Kucelj View into Krnica from the summit of Dovški Gamsovec.19
Dovški Gamsovec, Dolkova Špica and Kucelj Razor from the summit of Dovški Gamsovec.20
Dovški Gamsovec, Dolkova Špica and Kucelj Western route to Dolkovo špica.21
Dovški Gamsovec, Dolkova Špica and Kucelj Dovški Gamsovec from the path to Dolkovo špica.22
Dovški Gamsovec, Dolkova Špica and Kucelj Steep and long scree of the western route to Dolkovo špica.23
Dovški Gamsovec, Dolkova Špica and Kucelj Junction, left Škrlatica, right path to Dolkovo špica.24
Dovški Gamsovec, Dolkova Špica and Kucelj Summit ridge of Dolkove špice.25
Dovški Gamsovec, Dolkova Špica and Kucelj Still life at the summit of Dolkove špice.26
Dovški Gamsovec, Dolkova Špica and Kucelj View from the summit of Dolkove špice.27
Dovški Gamsovec, Dolkova Špica and Kucelj Descent towards Rdeča škrbina.28
Dovški Gamsovec, Dolkova Špica and Kucelj Path across the scree from Rdeča škrbina, in the background the 2372 m high summit of Kucelj.29
Dovški Gamsovec, Dolkova Špica and Kucelj Author of this report at the summit of Kuclja.30
Dovški Gamsovec, Dolkova Špica and Kucelj Summit of Kuclja.31
Dovški Gamsovec, Dolkova Špica and Kucelj Kucelj and Škrlatica from the path towards Bivak IV32
(+6)like
ločanka31. 08. 2015 19:58:18
Very exciting route! All three summits can really be an excellent goal. About Kucelj I learned
for the first time just last week, reading mountaineering wanderings by Gorazd Gorišek. It excited me right away! For such seemingly unimportant and unknown peak right at the foot of Škrlatica, really someone must appear to point it out so it gets visited at all. Congrats on this interesting tour!
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mito300012. 09. 2015 19:15:15
Today I did a nice circular tour. Start from Vrata past bivouac IV and then towards the hut at Kriški podi. At the top of Kriška stena I turn right towards Gubna. Below I pick up some cairns then more by feel to the top. Path not difficult but need to keep right as it's less steep there. Continue back to marked path towards Dolkova špica. Just before last ascent over scree to red škrbina I spot traces of predecessors towards Dovški Gamsovec. Small scree leads to very steep gully which I climb over to the next. Towards top some more easy climbing needed. Path very loose. Back I follow cairns and descend easier other path. Continue over scree to Rdeča škrbina where I descend a bit and traverse to foot of Rogljica. Here climb red gully (quite demanding) leading to easier terrain. Here I went too left so more climbing to top. From top descend small gully then traverse right on ledge. Then awkward descent red gully. From here ascend to Dolkova špica from where great views today. Back descend via Rdeča škrbina and visit Kucelj on the way whose name really fits.
Razor from Gubno1
Dolkova Špica from Dovški Gamsovec2
Dovški Gamsovec3
Towards Triglav from Dolkova špica4
Kucelj5
Rogljica6
(+6)like
mailman12. 09. 2015 19:36:50
Good! Bravo!nasmeh
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viharnik12. 09. 2015 20:24:39
Initial path to Dovški Gamsovec goes first really over steep gully ending in loose chimney, further there I turned right to steeper rocky ledges at edge of drop which I think is better than left back into jammed gully. There occasionally some grit where you clean with shoe on spot, otherwise quite nice compact rock that mostly holds, not everywhere!, a bit airy. Higher over rocky edge to top which is compact.
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