| Macesna6. 08. 2016 13:04:44 |
On Wednesday we completed an interesting and picturesque tour in the western wall of Planjava. Following the old Drenovec route (Kovač - Michler - Roller) from 1909, we first crossed into the right part of the western wall, from there sharply turned left towards the NW ridge (difficulties of I. and II. degree, sometimes up to III) and continued along the NW ridge (III and II) to the western summit of Planjava.
It's important to find the approach to Kunaver's ledge, extremely beautiful and exposed, about 50 meters long, and well visible also from Kamnik Saddle. To there we crossed over crumbly scree, descended into the dark basin under Brinšk's chimney, from where we went into the right gully. From it we climbed about 25 m onto the ledge. At its end we turned straight up until we found ourselves on a saddle high above Brinšk's chimney. Here a vast slope opens, the steepness eases, but one needs to find the "path" through this scree part. At this point we left the original Drenovec route and on the left side (we even descended a bit) searched for a passage to the NW ridge of Planjava, where we arrived quite low, a bit ahead from the Head. Behind us was barely half the tour. Here begins a beautiful and wild, quite exposed ridge, as we practically always hold the ridge crest, details are varied. It's also quite long and doesn't ease until the end, almost to the western summit of Planjava.
The tour is wild and picturesque, a real experience (especially NW ridge). But also complex and very orientationally demanding. One needs lots of time available, fog must not catch you (at least first time)!
Also: the ascent is an easier climbing route and not some well-visited pathless terrain.
Photo with drawn original Drenovec route across Planjava wall is in climbing guide Kamniška Bistrica, can be found on the web too. Guide also has description of NW ridge.
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