| janezs731. 09. 2015 13:23:43 |
because there was a change in the route description, the old route is no longer in use, attaching description and photos of the new variant (went last July, writing from memory):
start at Rif. Passo Fedaia (right before the road drops to Malga Ciapela) and follow the gravel road which is actually the lower part of the ski slope; after two turns and about 150 vertical meters turn left into the hillside. There the gravel road heads west, on the rock by the road is inscription Eterna, if I remember right. Head towards Sella Mul (between Marmolada/Serauta hillside and Sas del Mul shoulder riddled with grenades from WWI), exactly towards main Serauta ridge. When scree begins, notice snow patch under wall above and red entry sign on wall above snow patch. That's the entry. Then follow pinnacle visible from afar, above which huge belly rises. Route follows pinnacle, mostly below it over slabs, in places very exposed, few meters like harder sports ferratas, but not as bad as it sounds or looks at first. Just two friction moves needed, as climbers say. After 100m route reaches Serauta ridge, follows it zig-zag almost to top (to 2900m height), whole route equipped with cable at hand height, slope constant around 50°. Scree not too annoying. When route leaves ridge, quickly reaches crest, otherwise often veers to NW side, never SE side, often on ledges, sometimes fully on crest, near end follows old route with some old protections, of course by remains of original WWI support brackets;
only serious return option is gondola descent to Malga Ciapela then somehow to car at Passo Fedaia. If snow neither too little nor too much, can go straight down glacier following ski slope, but in some periods dangerous and tricky (middle and lower parts)
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