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List of forums / Slovenia / Julian Alps / Goličica (Prisojnik)

Goličica (Prisojnik)

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Hammond24. 06. 2022 08:56:08
From the Koča na Gozdu hut to its summit is "only" 852 meters of elevation away. But they must be earned properly. Without advanced scree skills and at least basic alpinistic experience, don't go there. Orientation from the saddle at Prednja glava is very demanding and you quickly find yourself in a dead end. The same applies downhill. In the last four years only 5 ascents have been recorded in the logbook, of which at least four were by alpinists.
Goličica (Prisojnik) The approach gully in snow is certainly more humane than dry. As Marijana and Marko say, the right branch is really more suitable for ascent, the left for descent. Which still doesn't mean it's easy.1
Goličica (Prisojnik) The overgrown gully right after the saddle, which leads to higher levels. An alternative is the gully all the way to the left, where I accidentally descended. From here to the top I built quite a few cairns.2
Goličica (Prisojnik) The gully flattens and veers right, but when the terrain levels a bit, one must head left.3
Goličica (Prisojnik) Descent gully up close. Not exactly an aesthetic highlight, but not harder than a good II.4
Goličica (Prisojnik) Shelf under Mala Goličica. Important orientation point. If on the way up it still seems to you that you exactly know where you came from, on the way down the story will be completely different.5
Goličica (Prisojnik) What a nice path around the brother of the Tired Tower.6
Goličica (Prisojnik) Below the summit of Mala Goličica.7
Goličica (Prisojnik) View ahead to the ridge to Velika Goličica. On the ridge we find the easiest variant ourselves. More visible than the lower stage.8
Goličica (Prisojnik) Summit with registration box.9
Goličica (Prisojnik) View towards Prisank, Mali Prisank and Hudičev steber.10
(+12)like
palček plezalček24. 06. 2022 09:34:40
Nice ... congratulations. nasmeh
(+2)like
turbo24. 06. 2022 09:40:51
Beautiful tour. Almost thirty years since I was up there, and actually the demanding orientation stuck in my memory the most. Bravo! nasmeh
(+4)like
Timmy25. 06. 2022 18:36:12
Today checked Hammond's report. Fully agree with everything. Some quite exposed spots combined with scree-covered slopes require full concentration. Thanks for the cairns. I was especially glad to find one after long search for the right "path" down.
Searching for the logbook on Mali Goličica was a unique challenge, sadly it was soaked.
In the gully everything slips underfoot / practically everything stays in hand. Even larger rocks.1
Right at the beginning.2
View from the top to Hudičev turn and Prisojnik.3
Ridge from VG to MG4
For the descent: between the wall and the larch.5
From now on I will observe it with even greater respect.6
(+8)like
Hammond25. 06. 2022 21:31:17
First thanks for the first two comments. mežikanje
Timmy, thanks also to you for agreeing and I'm very glad the cairns were useful to you. I already saw on ascent that descent would be challenge too, so hoped they'd help me and others in future. And congrats for successful ascent from me too. nasmeh
Still asking all reading this to carefully consider possible ascent and not rush, so no unpleasant incidents - potential is quite high.
(+3)like
Heavy_bull10. 06. 2023 20:48:56
Yesterday (9.6.2023). Soon after start of Hanz path from Suha Pišnica left to scree, didn't turn out as strenuous as expected (stuck to edge of bushes). Path continuation shown and described in attached pics. Orientation really demanding. From distance path looks simple, but once in terrain on ascent with many poorly visible variants in mix of rocks, bushes and gullies, you quickly end up where continuation impossible and back descent demanding. I helped myself with frequent cairns, which were very useful especially on descent, which is even more obscure.
1
2
further from the saddle between Prednja glava and Mala Goličica along the overgrown gully slightly left3
and then avoid the smooth slabs to the right4
I chose the line right by the smooth slabs and pushed through a shorter scree section rather than going further to the right edge where exposure feels much greater, then left5
through nice gully after which is immediately the saddle (shoulder) below Mala Goličica6
ascent to Mala Goličica is demanding orientationally, I chose the shown path (back view), where I found narrow quite steep overgrown gully to continue7
At the top of the mentioned steep overgrown gully (view back) at whose top immediately sharply right8
through this narrow passage and immediately sharply left and then a little unproblematic slope to the top of Mala Goličica9
the continuation from Mala Goličica onwards to (Velika) Goličica is also orientationally demanding, shown approximate direction where before the summit I kept somewhat left and then right to the top10
11
(+15)like
taubi412. 08. 2024 21:58:49
Exactly two months after Heavy bull, we three also headed to the top of the third over 2000m high Goličica. Up the scree gully also on the right side. At 1450m there is a somewhat tricky part. Once an avalanche took part of the trail. Two to three meters to cross very carefully, or you can slip 20-30m down the steep slope to the gully bottom. But right in the rock there is a piton, so quick belay is possible.
To the saddle (1665m) between Prednja glava and Mala Goličica exactly two hours. (Two retirees and one who works for us)
From here scrambling starts. Pictures with drawn routes are very helpful on ascent. On return they do not help much. We marked the ascent with red-white tapes, which we of course picked up on the way back. I think it is much better visible in this bushy world than cairns.
On the summit in under five hours. Back we also kept to the opposite edge of the gully. Descent is really much more comfortable than the ascent route. Only somewhat more demanding is the crossing of the gully right at the bottom.
One more thing. Without bushes the descent to Prednja glava would be much harder than it was with their help.
(+3)like
lijaneja13. 08. 2024 06:51:53
One year and two months. And thanks for inviting me on the trip!
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