Biščkova Glava-Sr.Gora-Trta-Macesnovec-Dimniki-žaga-Luknja Peč (11.09.21)
The tough ridge from Macesnovec over Dimniki, Luknja Peč to Rjavina we've had in plan for some time. But the initial ridge that starts above Radovna interested me more first. Above Bišček it starts with its Head. The best description was made by priest Franc from Dovje, which I had printed. With Denis after a long time again on tour. Everyone complains about parking in Krma, we'll have a super parking spot for ourselves today at the winter starting point for Triglav Kurja vas 780m. It was 5.00 and we were on the go after initial 700m road to the pasture, where we turned left towards the forest track. Here on this forest path I ran to Kot years ago in a test race under Triglav. Great help was Denis's map on the mobile. We redirected upwards and started this steep ascent. Here and there we checked if we were in the right line. At altitude around 1150m there are caves with support pillars and wow, we arrived exactly there. Can't go left, must go right and up the ridge, other steepness not an option. Rocks ahead, so we move right all the way to gully and left of it up. It was still quite dark, my eyes were shining as we hit the path better than some good expert and in the dark. Denis already dreams of sunrise, but Debele Peči ridge blocks it. At Biščkova glava we were before an hour and a half from the car. We were sweating, it wasn't cold at all. Weather will be heavenly today, as for a week. Continue, either over fallen trees or nice track. Quickly at Srednja Gora, follows ascent to Trta, where the summit is known by the fire pit on top (that's the description). Somewhere there's descent from Trta to valley, which doesn't interest us. Now comes the more interesting part and that's the ascent to Macesnovec in all this wilderness. We bypass barriers in the middle more on left side, even make ascent on grass slope along nice ramp right back to ridge and from it descend right to north side all to scree. Nice description of Eva on hribi and thanks for help on some posed question. Now follows interesting jump, supposed to be IV. Sounds maybe funny, but you have to climb it in "reverse". The rock or steps are so well made that you can't go forward. You have to lean a bit with body, backpack a bit annoying but goes more than excellent. Above that direct to right gully. Above it mandatory on right side to second gully Sušica. Here we messed up a bit, when you think at the end it somehow connects or to ridge shortcut. Already way up, Denis and I tried many things, climbed and without bushes it would be VI "there". Franc had instructions to rest nicely down there. No view on anything else but three subpeaks of Macesnovec. We took out rope, because here it really won't go, so we abseiled several times to the right gully. Hour and a half went wrong here, but no problem. With right gear everything somehow goes. But true, we would already be at top. Above right gully everything logical somehow, chamois path brings to damn bushes. So much bushes here, never experienced. That last part of ascent normal somewhat, otherwise incredible wilderness and when you think you've seen everything on some ridge above Logarska then you see it's not true. Without that unnecessary climbing left of right gully we would be at top in four and half hours, like this over 6h. Two hikers said they also came pathless from stream up, that trodden path hard to compare to this. Liquid sliding down throat. Denis and I already eyes towards Dimnik. Franc probably thoughts elsewhere. Plan was whole, if we nailed first time find whole ridge to Rjavina well, but today have to skip something. At wall right at start follows four, but we bypassed a bit left. Saved belay for section a bit higher. There we were quick. I belay Denis and four climbed. From above he belays us and we repeat Denis exercise. No big deal, but from here on enjoyment to top at least for me. Nice climbing, no belays. From Dimniki on you already see saw, which nicely connects to entry in Luknja Peči wall. No need for saw, but about other easier alternative Denis and I didn't think. Rock good and damn airy on both sides. One abseil, 30m rope enough. Climb out of gully back up to tower other side and on summit rock towards pointed towers. Here really bit scary, looks like something collapses anytime. Steady very nice to end, stick to ridge, come above hole. Luknja peči wall and its rock beautiful. Heart played past dance floor all to top. Nice box of author Matjaž, with whom good friends. View back over these peaks, even Biščkova glava visible indescribable. Timewise this was enough for today. Rjavina via ridge remains for next time, as we'd descend in dark and never know what can happen at such late hour. Would probably be different story if not that hour and half wasted uselessly in morning. We descend left side down and traverse to saddle. Probably possible abseil direct to saddle, some 60m rope enough if stance made. We go to left gully, buddy down it, I climb rocks to saddle. Here we descend traverse towards Temen, which already greeted us nicely. Wave goodbye to mountains, Rjavina you next year we visit and don't skip. At bombnik drink Laško in one go and along hunters path rush to Krma valley. Thanks Francl's Sonja who cares nicely for us. Ride to Radovna all we needed at end and cold beer. This is tour, route belongs among tough pathless at least to Macesnovec. Further it's tough alpinistic ascent, without preparation for such routes unfeasible.