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List of forums / Slovenia / Julian Alps / Great Snowy Peak - Cima Mogenza Grande (1973)

Great Snowy Peak - Cima Mogenza Grande (1973)

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IgorZlodej30. 03. 2011 20:51:18
Tomorrow it will be three years since one of the most unusual crossings from Jezerska valley to Možnica happened, which of course didn't succeed, but ended relatively happily. Of course it's the Belgians. Two years ago I checked it out and described it here: http://www.pzs.si/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4375. Early afternoon I drive to the prode, where the starting point for Jerebica and other mountains above Jezerska valley is. There's not as much snow as three years ago, but still I go on skis, later I have to take them off for several meters a few times. I walk the common path for a while, then turn right, where path 654 also goes, but soon leave it and head directly up the valley, first nicely up some gully, then have to search for the best snowed passages, cross some soft avalanche debris in between and reach the Škraplje area. No better name for this "world" of course, since the area is one big scree. Despite all I find good snow passages, of course have to watch the screes that can end over 10 meters deep. So with two easy drops and over steep "gully" which I cross without skis I reach the top of Great Snowy Peak. View more than excellent on almost all Western Julian Alps, nearby Jerebica and Rombon on the other side of Možnica, then Ribežni, Črnelske špice and in distance Kanin range all to Žrde. On top I sit a bit, before skiing need to rest, then ski down on just right powdery snow to Škraplja and along ascent route to Jezerska valley. Can't recommend the tour itself due to terrain difficulty. But it's despite all an excellent tour that gives more than we think, especially solitary, which I like very much.
Great Snowy Peak - Cima Mogenza Grande (1973) up there I'll go, as long as possible of course1
Great Snowy Peak - Cima Mogenza Grande (1973) also here snow avalanches dominated2
Great Snowy Peak - Cima Mogenza Grande (1973) far away prodi in the valley3
Great Snowy Peak - Cima Mogenza Grande (1973) on the other side of Jezerska valley from Visoka polica to Visoka Krniška špica4
Great Snowy Peak - Cima Mogenza Grande (1973) here the Belgians crossed5
Great Snowy Peak - Cima Mogenza Grande (1973) but I go up there and further6
Great Snowy Peak - Cima Mogenza Grande (1973) hole with Rombon in the background7
Great Snowy Peak - Cima Mogenza Grande (1973) chimney at the scree8
Great Snowy Peak - Cima Mogenza Grande (1973) border stone, behind Vrh krnice with Loška stena, even further back Bavški Grintavec9
Great Snowy Peak - Cima Mogenza Grande (1973) small artwork of the great master10
Great Snowy Peak - Cima Mogenza Grande (1973) and large artwork of the wind11
Great Snowy Peak - Cima Mogenza Grande (1973) human trace in pristine whiteness12
Great Snowy Peak - Cima Mogenza Grande (1973) glimpse of Črnelske špice13
Great Snowy Peak - Cima Mogenza Grande (1973) short break on the summit where the view takes the breath away14
Great Snowy Peak - Cima Mogenza Grande (1973) Jerebica with Jalovec in the background15
Great Snowy Peak - Cima Mogenza Grande (1973) worth coming up just for those few turns16
Great Snowy Peak - Cima Mogenza Grande (1973) Larches with Rombon.17
Great Snowy Peak - Cima Mogenza Grande (1973) This gully took me to the top and back down.18
Great Snowy Peak - Cima Mogenza Grande (1973) The sun is saying goodbye to a beautiful day.19
Great Snowy Peak - Cima Mogenza Grande (1973) But I still have quite a bit of skiing ahead of me.20
Great Snowy Peak - Cima Mogenza Grande (1973) I'll ski down this gully too.21
Great Snowy Peak - Cima Mogenza Grande (1973) Up there on the highest point I was.22
(+2)like
vagabund1. 08. 2012 02:16:06
On Saturday I drove to the parking lot under Beli potok in Jezerska valley and climbed along marked path 654 to Škrbina under Škraplje. The path leads pleasantly through the forest on a mule track and towards the end more directly to the saddle. Just below the saddle I turned left from the marked path towards the new bivouac Daniele Bertolutti named after the young caver who died in 2006. Already on the way to the bivouac there are many remnants from WWI, around the bivouac even more. The path to the bivouac is easy. My goal was Veliki Snežni vrh 1972m. Already in the logbook at the bivouac I noticed that the peak was visited by Italian alpinists only three to four times in 2009 and 2010, later no more. From the bivouac I went along a path between caverns eastwards and the steep slope of V. Snežni vrh wasn't far. The path soon ended and cairns guided me further. The terrain soon became very demanding with many screes, karst sinks, short walls and bushes. Soon I realized I must strictly follow the cairns (one or two stones on a rock), elsewhere the terrain is impassable. Each time I lost the right direction a bit I had to go back to the last cairn and search passages anew. Here it really holds that you're faster if you go slowly and constantly observe the terrain and especially where you step! On open terrain it was still ok, while for the right passage through the bushes I tried several times. When after a long time I extricated from the scree labyrinth I found a steep grassy cone by the wall and started climbing it. Higher the cone turned into a narrow gully with enough vegetation to pull myself up. At the end of the gully I turned left to the first subpeak, with a small detour right I reached the top of Veliki Snežni vrh. The views are really beautiful, so I stayed on top more than an hour and later returned the same "path" to the rock and bush labyrinth. The descent didn't go quite smoothly but I wrote enough about difficultiesvelik nasmehvelik nasmeh
I also can't really recommend the tour especially not to solo hikers like I was this time. Trip to the bivouac and poking around military fortifications and viewing positions will be a quite pleasant little tour to this remote end. Good luck!!
Veliki Snežni vrh from the parking lot1
On path i654 towards Škrbina pod Škrapljo2
A little below the saddle I turned left towards the bivouac3
Remains of the First World War on the path to the bivouac4
Speleological bivouac Daniele Bertolutti at 1740m5
Inside the bivouac is solidly equipped6
A coil of barbed wire adorns the landscape for many years7
8
Črnelska špica9
western Julian Alps10
11
Bohinca, C.Mogenza piccola12
Cairns lead me into an elongated basin13
Awkward terrain requires great caution14
Work of nature15
One or two stones mean I am on the right path16
Searching for passages among rocks and scree17
There are many similar scree slopes18
Start of ascent up the steep grassy cone19
which narrows into a gully20
Barely visible bivouac21
Forepeak22
First left and down, then detour right to the summit23
Veliki snežni vrh 1972m, Rombon behind24
Jerebica, bottom left Rabelj25
Možnica26
western Julijci27
Loška stena, Bavški Grintavec in the background28
I descend in the direction of the ascent29
down the same gully into the scree labyrinth30
(+5)like
Pastirica21. 09. 2023 10:47:20
I went on the tour with mixed feelings. Simply couldn't find data for preparation. The report above and redrawn path from one of the maps which I generally take with a big reserve (in this case paths on maps, no mistake).
Everything written above still holds. Cracks, pits, scree, ditches, rubble, steep walls. Above bivouac and further on now red dots also guide besides the path but end at the crack with pegs. Further cairns. Mostly enough of them but sometimes one missing. If you keep the right direction, which of course I didn't always, then it somehow goes. But tiring. Huge ups and downs and turns left and right. Partly because of the dog. Due to terrain nature must watch every step.
Above I didn't choose the grassy cone but went right and followed cairns. Unfortunately they led to a steep wall which would probably be too much even for me, absolute for the dog. Found passage higher where it went with some whining, better variant on return.
Now at the top also a box with papers and small logbook. Enough space for entry.
Return much easier no more orientation problems.
The tour itself tiring, one of my most tiring. But no regret. From bivouac on somewhere midway that Nicole di Bari started echoing in my head ...Mi trascina su per la montagna sempre su
Ho i piedi stanchi ma ora non li sento più...
I was already lacking it right above the bivouac1
orientation2
I find a very good little path3
even marked4
ice axes up to the staples - here I found a passage to the left and not the only one5
from now on it is necessary to follow the cairns6
there are quite a few7
I see the one in the distance, but not the nearby one.8
I descend the grassy cone.9
I go right.10
this leads to a steep wall, where I turn around11
here we then descend12
also across this basin13
view of the forepeak14
summit with a box15
crossing the steep wall already on the return - lower and much easier16
once again the crack with brackets17
at the bivouac - here you need to go up18
scree ascent19
Descent20
(+5)like
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